Cruising the Backwaters of Kerala

Friday, February 10, 2017
Kollam, Kerala, India
Fri 10 Feb

This morning we had an all-day private minibus journey from Madurai to Quilon on the Arabian Sea coast. This was the most hair-raising driving experience yet. If you think you've had a close shave on British roads, then think again. The traffic is slower so overtaking occurs in impossibly tight gaps and blind bends. Dual carriageways accommodate 3-4 vehicles side by side in India. Oh, and the occasional cow and/or goat. There are verges/narrow hard shoulders at the side of the road for pedestrians which are also used by motorcycles/scooters trying to escape head-on collisions from buses performing crazy overtaking manoeuvres. When we stopped to fill up at a petrol station, the driver nonchalantly left the motor running. It wouldn't have surprised me if he lit up a fag too.

Although the day was hot, over 30 degC as usual, I would have been quite happy to spend the driving day with the windows open and a breeze blowing through the minibus. However, everyone else insisted the AC was switched on so on we went with the AC on Arctic setting and me with my window open to let some warm air in. What was even stranger is that nearly everyone had a cold which was doing the rounds and Dawn had to put a cardigan on because it was so cold!
 
We arrived for an overnight stop at the Hotel Sea Pearl, Quilon, about 5pm. A very nice room and bathroom. The evening meal wasn't quite so nice though. It seemed like a good idea at the time to have a lamb biryani served in a clay pot. However, the novel serving method masked a dry meal more full of bones than meat. I was able to order a beer though so not all bad!
 
Sat 11 Feb
 
Breakfast in the hotel restaurant didn't start too well as the juice from the machine came out with large bits in it, presumably scrapings from the inside of the machine and pipes. When I pointed this out to the waiter, everyone else at breakfast was glad as well, although maybe a bit late for one or two who'd already drunk some.
 
We had a short drive to the jetty where we boarded our boat for an all day cruise through the Backwaters of Kerala from Quilon to Alleppey. The Backwaters comprise a network of hundreds of miles of waterways stretching inland from the Arabian Sea, with rivers and canals connecting huge lakes. Before roads, these were the main highways of Kerala and are still used by many villagers. We had a private boat, with a covered downstairs seating area and (rather flimsy) plastic chairs on the top deck where we all chose to sit. The cruise was so peaceful and relaxing - a world away from the bustle and frenzy of the rest of India. The countryside was so green, the riverbanks dotted with coconut palms and rice paddy-fields. Huge Chinese (cantilever) fishing nets ringed the lakes. Villagers went about their daily business, men shaving and bathing, women washing pots and clothes. Men paddled out in canoes and cast their fishing nets, others dived down collecting mussels, leaving a pole sticking out the water so a boat didn't run them over. Children shouted and waved enthusiastically as we passed by. The waterways were also teeming with birds. There were egrets, herons and terns aplenty. Magnificent Brahminy Kites swooped through the air, their white heads initially causing me to mistake them for Fish Eagles. The bright blue flash of a kingfisher skimmed over the water. Colourful bee-eaters perched on wires. It turned into an all-day birdwatching trip for me, quite content with my camera, binoculars and bird identification book!
 
We stopped for lunch at a small restaurant where we had a thali, a traditional vegetarian meal served on a banana leaf with rice, dal, vegetable curries and pickles. We also had a curried mackerel which looked like something from a horror film but was really tasty, even though it hadn't been filleted and deboned.
 
As we got closer to Alleppey, the waterways were littered with magnificent, tourist houseboats - these were larger, more expensive forms of transport, containing bedrooms, cooking facilities (and onboard cook!) and huge A/C units at the back, and would park along a river bank overnight. They couldn't however navigate the narrower waterways where you could more closely observe village life.
 
After arriving at Alleppey, we stayed overnight at Gabby Homestay in the village of Chennamkary. Locals have converted part of their property to tourist accommodation. Guests have the opportunity to learn about traditional living practices and enjoy home-made food. The room was much better than expected - en-suite, clean, equipped with a fan and WiFi too. I complemented the wife on her evening meal she had prepared - "Nearly as good as my mum's"! You could also buy beer.
 
Sun 12 Feb
 
The next morning we had a walk through the village along the river banks. The guide explained about village life, religion, farming, and the plants lining the banks for both food and medicinal uses. After taking a canoe ride back to the homestay, we then set off for our next destination, Cochin.
 

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