Drunken nights and lazy days in Cusco

Thursday, June 23, 2011
Cusco, Peru
We arrived back in Cusco on Sunday from our Amazon trip at Eco Amazonia Lodge. On Monday, we were supposed to take a bus to Puno on the shores of Lake Titicaca which, at 3,855m above sea level, is the highest navigable lake in the world. We were supposed to have a two day trip to visit the floating reed islands on the Lake to see the local's way of life, visit markets and have a homestay with a native Indian family. Then we were supposed to cross the land border into Bolivia near the Lake and drive to La Paz. Unfortunately, there were strikes and riots in Puno against mining concessions which closed the border with Bolivia and meant we would not be able to do this trip or cross into Bolivia via our planned route. We had to remain in Cusco for another few days, and pay extra for a flight direct into La Paz. About half the group would leave on Wednesday and the rest on Thursday.

Legend tells that in the 12th century, the first Incan was charged by the ancestral sun god Inti to find the navel of the earth. Discovering this point, he founded the city of Cusco which would become the capital of the Incan empire. It was only the 9th Inca king, Pachacuti, who began the great expansion of the Incan empire - historians have frequently compared him to Alexander the Great or Genghis Khan. Pachacuti's son Tupac continued the empire's expansion so by the time of his death, the empire stretched from Quito in Ecuador to Santiago in Chile. The 11th Incan king, Huayna Capac, was the last to rule over a united Incan empire. He would divide his empire between two of his sons. This resulted in civil war, which combined with the arrival of the Spanish Conquistadors around 1532 with their weaponry and cavalry, and the introduction of new diseases, led to the fall of the Incan empire. The Spanish would make Lima their capital because they needed to be near the coast.

As a place to spend a few days, modern-day Cusco would come near to the top of the list as it is virtually over-run with mass tourism - it has English and Irish bars, endless restaurants, nightclubs, and abundant shops and markets. It also has endless touts and hawkers hassling tourists every few steps - "Massage senor?", etc, etc. Cusco must hold the world record for the number of massage parlours in one city, all catering for the post-Inca Trail aching limbs rather than the seedy sex tourist. However, we seemed to have spent ages in Cusco, using it a base for side-trips such as the Inca Trail, Sacred Valley tour, and the Amazon, so it was becoming a bit tiresome to have to spend a few more days here not of our own making. Anyway, here are a few of our favourites haunts during our time in Cusco:

- The Real McCoy: Great monster full English breakfast, plus lots of other home fayre such as roast dinners and apple crumble.

- Paddy's: Supposedly the highest Irish pub in the world. Favoured by the Tucan crew. Had excellent food - the roast chicken was one HUGE bird, also loved the Philly Steak baguette and chips.

- Norton Rat’s Tavern: Large first floor bar with views overlooking the Plaza de Armas. Had an 8 foot pool table, albeit wonky and with huge American-style balls.

- Cusco is a bit of a party town at night, with many bars/clubs around the main square. We tended to frequent Mushrooms first, followed by Mama Africa after midnight. There were many touts around the main Plaza de Armas giving out tickets for drinks offers.

On the Sunday evening, our group went for a few drinks. Me and Mike decided to stay out for a few more drinks. We apparently got in to the hotel about 6am the next morning. A "slight" drinking indiscretion (which I cannot repeat here, and I actually couldn't remember in the morning) led to me keeping a low profile for the next 2 days.

Highlights of the next two days? Well, on Tuesday, I decided to wander into the town square at 10am and lo and behold, there was a magnificent procession going on whereby groups of local organisations were decked out in various local and traditional costumes and were parading through town. Later investigation revealed that this was the "Festival of the Sun" (Inti Raymi), originally performed during Incan times and celebrating the Incan sun god Inti. I didn't have much of a clue what was going on or who some of the characters and costumes represented but it was a very jolly affair, full of colour and good spirits. Walking back through the square later on in the evening, the procession was still going on at about 6pm, and even nearer to midnight, there were still groups of stragglers parading through the square - the Peruvians sure know how to party.

On Wednesday evening, the highlight was the quiz night in the evening at The Real McCoy which our team won (a bottle of wine). Also half of our group (basically, those who would be leaving us in La Paz) left today for their flight to La Paz. On Thursday, the rest of us had to get up early for a 9.30am 1 hour AeroSur flight to La Paz in Bolivia which took place without incident.
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