We followed familiar roads towards Hjerkinn, just after we passed our previous overnight spot nr Folla, Rob shouted  ' Moose!'  We managed to stop and I ran back down the road, but just as I spotted a big dark shape among the trees, 2 German motorbikers came roaring past, and of course the moose started to run. This was when i realised there were actually two. The biggest one ran off, but the younger one turned and looked right at me (in my turquoise fleece!).  It is a strange feeling to make eye contact with a wild beast. I managed to get a photo before it turned and ran off too.   Other than the 2 we saw right at the beginning , despite all the moose warning signs, these are the only ones we have caught a glimpse of.
We continued on to Dombas, and then on to the E136 towards Andalsnes.
When we had our 'emergency planning meeting' and decided to return to Norway , we agreed to miss out Alesund, but to include what should have been the highlight - the Golden Route - over the Trollstiggen down to the ferry, then up and down to Gerainger fjord then up again to the point where the road had been 'convoy only' previously. (See Whiteout! Wipeout! entry)

We stopped on the way to look at a super waterfall - the Slettafoss.  They have put up new barriers but you can get really close.
We carried on on the E136 until the mountains close in and the road and railway have to squeeze through. This is where the Trollveggen is.  This is the Troll's wall, this has the highest vertical overhanging mountain wall in Europe at nearly 1200m.   It wasn't climbed until1967. Sadly, at the bottom is a memorial to climbers who have died while climbing it. There is also a plaque to basejumpers who have died jumping off it!!  

We then drove on to one of the real highlights of our trip - The Trollstiggen- the Troll's Ladder.If we had done our trip as originally planned we would have come down the 11 hairpins, but we now found ourselves at the bottom , ready to drive up!
We had deliberately left it quite late in the day in the hope that there would be fewer tour buses etc.   L will let the photos show you the way up and the views from the top.  Rob really is an amazing driver!!xx

  When we got to the top it was snowing.   There were several tour buses there and some MH's, but they were all going down. When we left we were about the only ones going on over the top.
Of course what goes up must come down, and we had to go down miles of long hairpins to get into the next valley.
We were surprised that on the bottom slopes there were acres of strawberry fields, just beginning to flower. Apparently this area around Valldal produces most of Norway's strawberries and other fruit.

Down on the level, we spotted a couple of MH's.   The fjord frontage was being apapted with boardwalks and seating etc and there was a brand new carpark with no restrictive notices. We overnighted there with MH's from Norway, Germany,France ,Spain, Portugal and the Czech Rep. - and we thought we had come a long way!