The Hidden Cotswolds I

Saturday, October 19, 2002
Sheepscomb, Miserden, Dintisbourne Abbots, Elkstone, United Kingdom
Friday October 18, 2002

Very early it was rainy. It cleared up to sun with partial clouds. This morning began very overcast and drizzly, but it appears the sun is struggling to breakout as it is getting brighter.

Occasionally the landscape is reminiscent of the rolling hills of Virginia and Kentucky. I am writing this at 10am at the front window of the Falcon Inn bar with its book lined library as Susan sits before the fireplace reading a book with sunlight streaming in, side lighting the bindings on the books and the fireplace mantel. Outside in the window boxes, the geraniums are still in bloom. I can see the church across Stow Street with its large clock face and tall spire in a yard with many trimmed bushes.

Before starting our first day of driving about, it seemed appropriate that we stop in at the Little Fleece Bookstore on Bisley Street, just off Stow, north of the Falcon Inn. It is a National Heritage book store. The manager, David Archald finally warmed to us and was generous enough to give us a short list with sketches of "The Hidden Cotswolds" and loan us a book with extremely detailed maps. This proved to me of immeasurable value. Thus armed we began touring finally at 11:30am.

We drove to Sheepscombe, and then to Miserden where we explore St. Andrews church, Duntisbourne Abbots where we explored St. Peters church, and finished the day with the wonderful St Johns Saxon church in Elkstone.

We drove only on extremely narrow single lane "two way" country tracks lined on both sides up to the very edge of the road by either a 6 to 10 foot high deep (three foot at least) hedge row thickets trimmed vertically to appear as a wall, or a four foot high ancient dry field stone wall. These roads are impossible for two cars to get by each other since they are only the width of one car. One car has to pull over to the rare cut out or back up to one! Imagine coming upon a local driver careening around a corner! It is difficult to see the delightful rolling hills with grazing cattle and sheep through flora and rock barriers. It was frustrating for me. Of course, I couldn't take my eyes off the road. I was looking straight ahead with the hedges creating the effect of wearing blinders! The guidebooks didn't mention this in describing the charm of the Cotswolds! Sometimes we would come upon a stretch of road lined with trees whose branches intermingled across the road like an arch for long distances. We did come upon wonderful vistas and architecture, although often it qualify for a photograph.

We came upon "gentrified" "country" folk slowly riding horses English style and rabbits madly hopping towards us chased by dogs, pheasants, grouse and always ravens, sometimes in small flocks flying in formation like a cloud dipping a soaring above us in the sky and then landing on the top of a Saxon church tower.

We had dinner at the Royal Oak Inn pub in Painswick. We met a couple from a suburb of London. We talked to a few others in this packed pub. They sure do like to drink in the UK. We observed many bloated red faced people.

Photos & Videos

Comments

2025-02-07

Comment code: Ask author if the code is blank