Friday march 24 2000 sunny with some clouds ...

Wednesday, April 05, 2000
New Orleans, Louisiana, United States
Friday, March 24, 2000 Sunny with some clouds, 79 high, prob 80~85% humidity, somewhat uncomfortable.

We caught an American Airlines flight that left around 9am and arrived a little after 11am. Not a good airline compared to United, which is nothing to shout about. When we arrived the luggage claim was jammed and we had to get into a line to get a cab that doubled back on itself completely and must have been at least a block long. We shared a cab.

We took the Hyatt's little trolley to the Casino, got a bunch of quarters and nickels and broke even using the one armed bandits. Boy were our hands dirty from all those coins!

At 2:00pm we walked down a block and had tea at the Windsor Court, 300 Gravier St. 504-522-1992. We were all dressed up. We really enjoyed a classical trio of flute, violin and cello led by Patty Adams. She and a revolving group of musicians from the Louisiana Orchestra have played this gig since 1984. They played all nine movements of the Vivaldi Sonata in G minor, a piece by Handel and Bach's Ode to Joy at my request! She had found arrangements from the 1850~80's in the Library of Congress in Washington, DC for small groups of large orchestral pieces for friends to play together at home or small gatherings. For this session, the flute played one of the two violin parts in one of those arrangements.

We also discussed the odd way directions are used in New Orleans, North, South, East and West are not used. Only the relation of an address to the river are used. Also we spoke of the pronunciations of words: Yak speak as it is know down here. I have a special document in the computer dedicated to this. Applies to food as well.

She also tipped me off to the great Fine Art Photography gallery around 300 Royal which Susan and I discovered in our walk that evening. I never made it back during business hours.

We walked around the French Quarter that has been modified by the all-out pursuit of visitors' disposable income. Decatur Street, parallel to the river, once the seamen's main drag, now sports cafés and T-shirt shops, gift shops, and Mardi-Gras-mask shops with names like Hot Okra. We discovered Susanna's Antique and modern doll shop. The truth turned out that they looked antique, but every single doll was brand new. Never the less the artistic craftsmanship was outstanding. No photos allowed. The shop is around 210 St. Peter on the west side of Jackson Sq. Also came across Rendezvous, a wonderful linen and lace shop a few door up at 522. Neither were open, but we returned to both later in the week and Susan purchased some linens from Susan Mirpuri for her tea service (504-522-0225). We also discovered Bedazzeled at 635 Saint Peter (529-3248). Later in the week we returned and met the owner, Richard Gagnier. It is a great shop. Susan finally found a new watch! It is a silver bracelet somewhat in the spirit of the Anne Kleine she has been wearing for many years.

We could the calliope player atop the sternwheeler steamboat Natchez begin the tune. "Rolling Down the River (on a Sunday Afternoon)" as we walked around Jackson Square.

Around 6:30p we arrived at Galatoire's, 209 Bourbon, 525-2021. A family enterprise since 1905. We had eaten here 32 years ago on our honeymoon. At that time we stayed at the Roosevelt Hotel. There still is a Roosevelt Hotel. The 1831 house for P.A. Hebard with lyre-design wrought iron balconies has undergone extensive renovations. . We toured the new upstairs rooms and bar which are quite nice and quieter than the large downstairs room. The attentive waiters are in tuxedos.

To our great surprise there was no long line and we were seated immediately. Charming antique double brass lamps mounted above the 2½ foot mirrors line the walls and heavy paneling warmly illuminate each table. Located in a long room, the mirrors lining both walls not only give the room a much wider impression, but also allow you to observe the other dinners without actually facing them. Within ten minutes the room was full. Starched linens, bentwood chairs, and brass coat hooks complete the scene. We felt as though we are in a Parisian bistro. It turns out that they now take reservations but I was unaware of that since everything I read said they were the only restaurant that didn't. Jacket required. It was a bit noisy because of the parties of 6 to 10.

We observed many locals, "the pterodactyls"-members of old, uptown families, greeting each other and visiting one another at their tables. One table drew Susan's glance often. A quite elderly woman who used an elegant silver handled black ebony cane was accompanied by a much younger man, perhaps in his late 40's or early 50's who was very elegantly dressed. (The Armani/Gucci Prince) He was doting on her, attending to her every desire. She appeared to have had many face lifts and had, as Susan declared: "goofy hair." Susan also reported she was wearing a large diamond choker and earrings. Reminded us of the couple we observed many years ago at the Easter brunch at the Palmer House in Chicago that brought a full sized child doll with them. Later I learned from a woman at the Spring Fiesta headquarters that she was probably the woman who lived at 826 St. Ann whose husband had passed on. She is now in her 80's. She loved to attend Opera. New Orleans has a long tradition of Opera. Long ago when it was French, there were four opera companies I was informed. This woman no longer had an escort to her opera. She always listened to opera on the radio and occasionally would call and talk to the announcer. Eventually this led to this man escorting her about town to opera as well as many other events!

I had Escargot Bordel, Sautéed Pois DuJour (Grouper) with Crawfish Etouffee and asparagus, lettuce & tomato salad with a marvelous dressing. Susan had Shrimp Remoulade, asparagus salad and Crab Sardou with fried eggplant and spinach in a surprising somewhat bland bernaise. We shared a bread pudding that was very good.

I was wearing that fabulous silk rainbow tie that Susan had given me many, many years ago. After dinner, as we walked Bourbon Street, I was approached by handsome young men complimenting me on my tie. I observed others eyeing it as well. I was like a walking billboard.

We observed the police bust of a black dude, his being handcuffed and led into the police station in the quarter just as we walked by. Earlier in the morning I came across a SUV with a window broken. This was in the upper quarter a block and half from Rampart St. Near Congo Square where Louis Armstrong used to play. They now have re-named it in his name, but have retained the original name as well.

Saturday, March 24, 2000 Sunny with some clouds, 82 high, prob 85% humidity, somewhat uncomfortable.


I wondered around the French Quarter. I discovered Walt and Ronda Rose's Louisiana Loom Works at 616 Chartres St., a block west of Jackson Sq. Walt was instructing a new student. They only make rag rugs. As I was walking out of the shop I noticed a fluffy gray cat napping on a nice pile of rugs near a window. I of course, grabbed a pan shot. He'd didn't lift an eyelid. He was laying so close to the edge with a leg dangling down that you would think he would have fallen off, but Walt said nope, never.

Next I walked into the classy New Orleans Silversmiths at 600 Chartres (522-8333 & 800-219-8333) [M-Sa: 9:30ish-5 & Su: 11ish-3, typically Big Easy time] I found some antique tea butter spreaders with bone Bakelite handles and antique demitasse spoons. Both were on sale Both were very used. Most everything they have is very nice. Lots of silver: antique and modern. For antique shops that might carry inkwells and paperweights I was referred to 300 to 600 Royal Street. Royal Antiques and Keyles in the 300 block. Rau's in the 600 block and Dixon and Dixon in the 200 block. We did in the following days.

I took the Spring Fiesta French Quarter Open House tour.
It included the following homes:

615 Pere Antoine Alley, which is the St. Louis Cathedral Rectory. There our guide was the charming humorous Rev. Msgr. Kenneth Hedrick. The rectory serves as living quarters for the parish priests and the administrative offices. We began our tour by having punch and sugar cookies in a secret courtyard garden with a icon inset in a brick wall above a little fountain with gold fish in a pond. Msgr. Hedrick told us all about the very old Archbishop's canopied bed which he allowed me to photograph with my little Konica Revio Z3 APS.

Next was 814 St. Phillip, a 1870 2 ½ story Italian masonry house recently restored by Alice and Claude Perrier. Fortunately many of the original marble mantels and the Greek key pocket door were left from years of being vacant and having been divided into five apartments. They had help from Columbia University architects. I spoke at length with Alice Perrier who was very nice. She had studied at Barat college and we spoke a lot about Chicago, its architecture and architecture in general. Here I photographed Jennette Faye McDonald in her deep green satin dress with white pantaloons in a classic southern bell profile pose framed in a doorway. She was of Nawlins society. The satin swallowed light.

I also visited two other buildings.

I shot photos of girls of different ages in their antebellum hoop skirts and white pantaloons at the Spring Fiesta presentation ceremony at Jackson Sq. for the beginning of the Parade. The most striking person I shot was Sally Dane, the daughter of Mr. and Mrs. John Dane III. (wife is Susan) She knew all the moves, throwing her head, etc.

Later that afternoon, after the above, the area on St. Peter, where the belles had gathered was now taken over by the Tennessee Williams Convention's Screaming Stella contest that I took a few shots of. Unfortunately, I was a bit late and all the good spots had been taken so I didn't get anything worth a damn. It was a lot of fun with most of the screamers being locals but a few from Brooklyn and the Bronx. This is part of the Tennessee Williams Literary Festival that features theatrical productions, lectures, concerts, readings, panel discussions and literary walking tours dedicated to the late playwright.

We had dinner at Gabrielle, 3201 Esplanade, 948-6233, in the mid-city area, a 20 min cab ride along the road under I-10 through some very marginal slums. (casual dressy, coat & tie not necessary) We ate in a simply decorated dining room, brightened with luminous watercolors. The place is very popular and was packed. Stef had She Crab soup that was fabulous. It was different than the ones I've had in Savannah and Augusta, GA. Duck with many colored peppers and mushrooms in a Sherry and sweet orange juice sauce. It was very tender and not dry, fatty or oily. Susan had BBQ shrimp pie that was fabulous with super indescribable sauce., a veal chop with tiny shrimp with Romano cheese creme sauce, mashed potatoes to die for along with baby asparagus and pea pods. We shared a chocolate brownie in a Giradelli chocolate sauce and home made peppermint ice creme! The coffee was a blend of chicory and local New Orleans coffee. This was one great meal in a very understated environment that might have originally been a diner! An enclosed side porch had been added on and that is where we enjoyed a meal served by a nice waitress.

Sunday, March 23, 2000

We went to the Court of the 2 Sisters, 613 Rue Royale, 504-522-7273, for the Jazz buffet. Sure a lot of food and mostly okay, but we were seated at the first table in the garden, far away from the musicians and constantly busy with people and waiters rushing by or standing near the fountain opposite our table to be photographed. All together a horrid place to sit. Would not return. I already knew about the place and its negatives, but it is a tradition, at least for the tourists, and still wanted to try it. We had been to Brennan's way back in 1968 during our honeymoon. Even then, Brennan's was a tourist tradition. The food was much better there as I recall. The Brennan family has a number of other restaurants, including Commander's Palace, all of which have high standards.
Among other dishes we had were Eggs Benedict, shrimp pasta, pork stroganoff, chicken and andouille gumbo, Remoulades, ceviche, marinated artichokes, crawfish casserole, turtle soup and crabmeat peter.

Everywhere we walked in the Quarter we ran across music, either being performed in bars and restaurants, from small bands in the middle of the street, on the sidewalks or in the streets around Jackson Square. There were two traditional jazz bands featuring both black and white of different ages, one fine trumpet player seemed perhaps 12 years old. Very relaxed dude. There was a old timey string band with a washtub base, a trio of a black woman guitar player, older bearded white trumpet player and a bassist from Minneapolis who had fabricated a "trailer" for his bass that he hooked up to his bicycle. This was David Leonard and Roselyn Lionhart. She plays guitar, mandolin and several African instruments. . . . He plays guitar, cornet and harmonica. They both sing. They are very good, and their open guitar case fills quickly with cash whenever a crowd gathers. Most activity started as early as 11am.

Mimes! They were everywhere. Sometimes on opposite sides of the street. Some coated themselves with silver or gold dust instead of white to appear more like a statue. There was one guy in foot ball sweats carrying a foot ball who was frozen in mid stride. People would come up and stare at them! All of course had a bucket for contributions. Most would break out of there pose in unusual move-ments when a dollar was dropped in. When Susan dropped in her dollar, the mime shocked us by changing into a mechanical toy who then embraced Susan. Another was dressed up as pure white angle, complete with white face and large feathered wings. When a contribution was deposited, she would bend in half and her out stretched arms would slowly come together as in prayer.

We had dinner at Arnaud's, 813 Bienville (bet. Bourbon & Dauphine. 504-523-5433), a DiRonNA award winner. A jacket & tie required. It has cast Corinthian columns at street level, a handsome cast iron gallery, and a brick dentilled cornice.

Stef had Shrimp Creole, Shrimp Arnaud, greens salad and a caramel custard. Susan had Chicken Rochambeau, greens salad, shrimp arnaud and the caramel custard.

We were seated in the main dining room. The outside wall of ornate etched glass reflected light from the charming old chandeliers while the late founder, Arnaud Cazenave, gazed from an oil portrait near the extra-high ceiling. We were seated next to a nice jazz trio.

The big, ambitious menu included classic dishes as well as some newer creations in a more contemporary style. We both had the cold shrimp Arnaud, in a superb Remoulade and green salads. Susan had the Chicken Rochambeau and I had the Shrimp Creole. We both had the fine creme brulee.

We walked around the Quarter some more. As we walked down Decatur Street we came across a old bookstore jammed to ceiling with Voodoo and other books. The owner also offered a selection of Voodoo dolls. None were close to the primitive one Susan had purchased during our 1968 visit. (She actually has used it!) I found one I liked and purchased it.

We walked towards Cafe DeMonde across from the square near the riverfront. This was around 10:30pm and the place was packed. Musicians magicians, jugglers, and mimes were still out and about. Serving only cafe noire or au-lait and beignets (square, no holes, blistering hot)-the Crescent City, though French, is not known for croissants but beignets which are fried (never baked) in hot lard with baking soda used to puff the dough. The waiter wanted to know only if we wanted cafe "au lait" (half milk) and our doughnuts with sugar (powdered). The powdered sugar fell off onto everything like dusty snow.

Monday, March 27, 2000

I took a St. Charles Street car with its varnished wooden window frames and windows that actually open onto the passing spectacle out to the Garden District and wandered around in the Layfette Cemetery number One.

Once part of the Livaudais Plantation, Lafayette No. I was designated a city burial site in 1833, and has been in continuous use since. Distinguished by its intersecting avenues, designed to accommodate funeral processions, it was the City's first planned cemetery, and its second major place for Protestants. The walls of these cemeteries are made up of economical vaults that are stacked on top of one another. The rich and wealthier families could afford the larger ornate tombs with crypts. Many family tombs look like miniature houses complete with iron fences. The rows of tombs resemble streets. New Orleans burial plots quickly became known as "Cites of the Dead." I met Carole Zavala Laidlaw while waiting for guide that never showed up. Carol, a fund raising consultant, was playing hooky from the NSFRE convention because she had heard Linda Elerbee's speech a number of times. I gave her card to Susan. (PO Box 4048, Laguna Beach CA, 92652; 949-497-6397, fax 949-494-5717; czassociates@earthlink.net) We tagged along on an informal tour led by a neighbor, Shawn Perry of 1432 6th St., 70115. He turned out to be quite knowledgeable. Later we shared shrimp Remoulade at Rani on Magazine St, wandered into the As You Like It silver shop of estate and new flatware, and toured the Garden District. She was from California where she is a fund raising consultant. She had taken some photography classes and was shooting black and white in her 35mm autofocus camera.

I returned to Jackson Square which has many Voodoo Queens who have set up in the plaza in front of St. Louis Cathedral and along St. Peter St. There I met Margaret, a "Voodoo Queen/Minister" and spoke to her at length. She allowed me to photograph her at work and I got many good shots. She practices I-Ching with cards. Instead of dropping sticks and reading them, I guess she never really leaned that, so had someone write down all the different readings on different cards and the "client" picks a card. This is not quite kosher to me, since I was very much on the fringes of this in the mid 60's. She also reads palms and is a clairvoyant. 504-598-1723.

We had Dinner @ Gautreau's ("Gotro"), 1728 Soniat St, Uptown, past Garden District, 899-7397, (casual dress) There was a very nice arrangement of flowers on our table which I grabbed a shot or two of.

Tuesday, March 28, 2000

Susan took three more workshops.

For dinner we attended a Fais Do-Do (pronounced like the extent bird) @ Cajun Dance Hall @ the Swamp exhibit w/Zydeco music at the Audubon Zoo at the west end of the Garden District. By the time we arrived at the zoo, it was pitch black. Was very well done. The food was great. The exhibits were very well done. We sat on a deck above a large pond of alligators! Also fun to observe river otters playing. In glassed in exhibits in a building were many snakes, frogs, lizards and other swamp critters. This zoo also has two of the few albino alligators.

Wednesday, March 29, 2000

We got on a tour bus and visited two of the lesser plantations.

First was Destrehan, 13034 River Rd., Destrehan, LA. It was built in 1787 and is the oldest documented plantation house left intact in the lower Mississippi Valley. Hand-hewn cypress timber, pegged attic and bousillage-entre-poteau construction and West Indies style roof are unique features. A costumed guide told us about the structure, history and the building's owners.

It had a very nice gift shop featuring Louisiana crafts, books and other goodies. Susan bought 8 silver tea strainers with little cups.

Second we visited San Francisco Plantation west of Reserve, Louisiana 70084 (504) 535-2341 (888) 322-1756 jnjrutledge@mindspring.com.
It is a registered National Historic Landmark, is owned by the San Francisco Plantation Foundation, a Louisiana non-profit organization. Widow's walk and somewhat steamboat gothic style. Quit unusual.

Built in 1856 by Edmond Bozonier Marmillion. It is the most distinctive and only authentically restored plantation on the River Road. Featuring five hand painted ceilings, faux marbling, wood graining throughout and antique furnishings by Mallard and John Henry Belter.

Although the house, in St. John-the-Baptist Parish, is antebellum in a chronological sense, it is certainly not typical of the period. Its style and blue and creme coloration are totally distinctive.

The house is so distinctive, in fact, that it inspired novelist Frances Parkinson Keyes to write "Steamboat Gothic", a story about a family she imagined lived there. Viewed from some angles, the house closely resembles the ornate and yet graceful superstructure of a Mississippi riverboat.

The most important period in the history of the mansion was the time of prosperity in the late Eighteen Fifties, when the intricate decorating and remodeling were undertaken.

It was purchased by Energy Corporation of Louisiana(ECOL) in 1973 as the site for an oil refinery and the house was included in the purchase. The chairman of the corporation, Frederick B. Ingram, urged restoration and the building and eight acres were donated to the foundation. The project was completed in 1977 at a cost in excess of two Million Dollars. What all the above means is that it is essentially surrounded closely by an oil refinery!

We had dinner at Bayona, 430 Dauphine St., bet. Conti & St. Louis in the French Quarter occupies cottage with a wonderfully tropical walled courtyard that allows just a murmur of French Quarter sounds. Soft illumination that suggests gaslight played across the fronds of banana trees. It is a DiRonNA award winner. Susan Spicer is the owner and chef. She is the current rave chef in the city and deserves it after our experience! I had Garlic shrimp appetizer and a shrimp dish with soup. Susan had an eggplant appetizer, Cream of Garlic soup and a lamb chop that was out of this world. We split a chocolate cake for desert.

Thursday, March 30, 2000 sunny

We got up early and drove to Slidell, La on the other side of Lake Poncichartrain. It was to have been led by Dr. Paul Wagner, a naturalist in the Nature Conservancy's first preserve in Slidell, the Honey Swamp, but we ended up with a good ol' boy who told us stories about huntin' a wild Turkey. I shot a photo of a floating swamp shack with two Confederate flags covering its two windows. We did not see much: one alligator, that always in that spot, one blue heron one exotic frog and a few tree snakes.

My daughter & her husband came in to celebrate my 60th birthday. They stayed at the Maison Perrier, 4117 Perrier St. 504-897-1807. It is in middle of Garden District, 2 1/2 blocks S of St. Charles Street Car line and 7 blocks west of Louisiana Ave.

We had a Cajun Dinner Patout's, 501 Bourbon, 504-586-1155. The food was very so so. I choose this place because it had vegetarian selections for Rich and had Cajun music. The band was the entertainin' Raigan Cajuns. They were very very loud, but okay.

Friday, March 31, 2000 (my 60th birthday) sunny

We had planned to take the free tour of the French Quarter led by the National Park District, but arrived much too late for the free tickets given out when they open up at 9am. This was because we lingered much too long visiting with other guests over breakfast at the B&B.

Instead we took our own self guided walking tour using an old folder I had picked up in 1974. It is no longer available and proved invaluable.

We had a disappointing lunch at The Coffee Pot on St. Peter. We remembered this place fondly over the years from our honeymoon and were aghast at the dirtiness of the place, the average food and the fact that they hadn't made bread pudding! The memory of that bread pudding was one the reasons for coming back to New Orleans! It put us in such a funk!

We went to the fantastic Mardi Gras exhibit at the Presbytere, 751 Chartres next to the St. Louis Cathedral. The Presbytere, begun 1795, completed 1847 was originally intended as the rectory (Casa Curial) for the Cathedral but never used as such; instead, it was first rented by, then sold to, the city as a Court House. Like the Cabildo, the Presbytere was built over the remaining walls of the earlier colonial structure, visible where stucco has been removed from the well to the right of the entrance, under the arcade. Since 1911 it has been a branch of the Louisiana State Museum, depicting the city's history.

We came across the Faulkner House an apartment on Pirate's Alley where William Faulkner, newspaper reporter, put the finishing touches on his first novel, "Soldier's Pay," published in 1926. It is now a bookstore & headquarters for the Pirate's Alley Faulkner Society. They carry other books and I purchased James Rice's illustrated book, "Gaston the Green Nosed Alligator" to accompany my copy of his "Cajun Night Before Christmas" we purchased during our 1974 visit.

I looked out the window of the Presbytere and observed below the afternoon crowd milling about Jackson Square. Artists drew caricatures, seers spread out their tarot cards, a fiddler played, the band with the 12 year old trumpet player played louder, and the angle mime dabbed white powder on her face and returned to bowing.

We retired to our B&B for a nap. That was a lot of walking and being on our feet in the museum.

We had dinner @ Emeril LaGrasse's, 800 Tchoupitoulas St.[Chop a two' les) in the warehouse district 504-528-9393 It is DiRonNA award winner. Being in a sandblasted first floor of a loft it is a noisy, abstract-art-splashed establishment. I had terrific Texas Red Fish. Susan had rack of Lamb that was fabulous. She had banana creme something for desert. They put a candle on my bread pudding and two waiters did a very nice rendition of Happy Birthday! Four young women occupied the table next to us. The had had flown in to celebrate a birthday. They were havin' one fine time!

Saturday, April 1, 2000 sunny

I took a walking tour of the neighborhood around our B&B starting around 6:45am. returning around 8:30am.

After a bit of walking west on Camp, I turned south (or towards the river as they say here in Nawlins) on St Anne and came across quite a bit of interesting things to photograph at the corner at Sophie Wright. There is a small triangular pocket park there where Sophie B. Wright, 1866-1912, an educator and social reformer, is honored with a statue at the intersection of Sophie Wright Place and Magazine Street.

Sophie Bell Wright opened the only free night school in New Orleans, Febuary, 1885 . She had been born in 1866 to a family that had been impoverished by the Civil War. When she was 3 she was injured severely suffering a fall as a toddler and spent six years strapped to a chair. Later she hobbled to school with the help of crutches, a brace and will power and spent her life in a steel harness, walking painfully with crutches.

With incredible strength and determination, and to add to the family budget, she began her life as an educator in 1881 by opening her own morning "Day School for Girls" with classes in her home and tuition at 50 cents a month. when just fifteen years old. At sixteen she taught math at the Normal School in exchange for auditing language classes.

Within four years the she was able to add boarding facilities and the school had established a reputation as one of New Orleans' best private schools. When she was 18 years old, a circus performer asked if she could teach classes for poor men which led within the year to the establishment of a free night school for men and working boys. The only requirement was that the students had to be employed during the day and be too poor to pay for classes.
A report by New Orleans Public Schools in 1894 rejected night schools as unfeasible and unreliably attended, but by December 1900 Sophie's school had 1,100 students with 20 more being turned away at night. She also labored at other good causes such as collections for yellow fever victims, prison reform, the Home for Incurables, etc.
In addition to serving on the Prison Reform Association and the Woman's Christian Temperance Union, she served as president of the New Orleans Woman's Club and worked to secure public playgrounds, baths, and summer vacations for children and needy women.

In 1903 or 4 she became the first of twenty one New Orleans woman to be awarded The Times Picayune prestigious award, the Loving Cup, for outstanding social activism and philanthropy in a ceremony that drew 15,000 people. In April 1912 Sophie became the first person in the city to have a school named after her while still alive. She died in June 1912 but her Home Institute functioned until 1928. The night school closed in 1909 when the city opened its own.
http://www.google.com/search?q=cache:enlou.com/time/year1885.htm
additional info from: URL: http://www.lib.lsu.edu/soc/women/lawomen/wright.html

This morning we met a couple from Oakbrook, IL. He works at a painting contracting firm of 140 employees. They mentioned they had hoped to eat at the Commander's Palace but could not get a reservation. Since I had made a reservation for four and Stephanie and Rich would not be going because they are vegetarians, we invited them.

We toured the Garden District, (homes were open & owners were our guides.) This was part of the 64th annual Spring Fiesta. 800-550-8450.

The houses, built by Yankee newcomers after the Louisiana Purchase, feature a collection of wrought iron, graceful balconies and Doric, Ionic and Corinthian columns as architects imported from Baltimore and Philadelphia engaged in a bigger-is-better rivalry with the Creoles of the French Quarter. The gardens are resplendent in magnolia, palms and live oak. The condition of sidewalks was very erratic since these ancient tree roots pushed the sidewalk slabs in various directions creating a pedestrian's horror. This condition revealed their underlying first layer of sea shells similar to the sidewalks of Savannah.

What a contrast the serene and peaceful District is to the crowded busy commercialized Quarter only 2 miles away.

2826 St. Charles Ave. Is owned by Mrs. Susan Hoskins, a very personable-one was a caterer in DC. She had photos she with Madeline Albreight & Cooki Roberts. It is actually two buildings joined together, front and back and appears to be an Edwardian, double gallery townhouse. The rear house was built in 1850, the front in 1900.

The most impressive home was that of Dr. And Mrs. Terry Creel at 3102 Prytania St. at 8th Street. This grand Italianate house was built in 1875. It had remained in the family until being sold to the Creels in 1991. Two southern bells welcomed us at the entrance on the porch in full hoop skirts with pantaloons. I recognized them from a week ago when I photographed their presentation at Jackson Square. It had the original magnificent pierced plaster moldings and medallions. The fireplaces were very simple curved marble. Lots of period furniture pieces. But the most memorable objects observed were the extensive collection of Mardi Gras ephemera and favors displayed throughout the house. Both Susan and I spoke with both of the Creels who were most cordial as guides. Mrs. Creel's mother, who appeared to be a sister, was the dinning room host. Her grandmother held down the kitchen dispensing tasty refreshing punch and sugar cookies. There was a professional photographer there (for National Geographic I was told) shooting with a 50mm on a Blad and a Nikon. He was in the "living room" but also had a slaved umbrella in the "dinning" room which tripped when ever I shot with my little APS Revio Z3.

We also visited just the lobby of a B&B at 2727 St Charles built in 1893 by local architect Thomas Sully.

We had a long wait, but caught the St. Charles street car back to our B&B neighborhood and changed clothes.

We had dinner at Brigtsen's, 723 Bante St, in Uptown. It looks like a modest little white cottage, but the house is long and filled with glorious smells. 861-7610, It is a Dirona Award winner. The food was fantastic! I had a great rabbit tenderloin appetizer with polenta and fresh spinach in a wonderful mustard sauce. What a treat! I followed that by chef Frank Brigtsen's crisp duck and dirty rice. That was great as well. Susan had shrimp Remoulade with guacamole sauce with deviled eggs followed by a pork tenderloin with debris sauce and mashed potatoes. This is one their signature dishes. The entire staff sang happy birthday to me with a candle on a dessert of bread pudding.

Sunday, April 1, 2000 sunny

We and the couple from the B&B had Brunch at Commander's Palace, 1403 Washington Ave. (jacket & slacks, are req. tie opt.)

It was much more fun with another couple. We were seated in the middle upstairs room by a large picture window that overlooked a very nice garden in a neighbor's yard. Susan had a wonderful Bloody Mary with peppers. They pour in the Vodka from a gallon jug at the table! Susan and I had Shrimp Remoulade that was quite good. Susan had a steak. I had pork and poached eggs in very nice sauce. For desert I had strawberry something and Susan had bread pudding. The appetizers all arrived at the same time served by four waiters. We seemed to be waiting an interminable time for our entrees. Early we had a heard a crash. That was our entrees!

Our brunch companions left to take a plantation tour.

We returned to our B&B. We caught a cab driven by a great woman cab driver who had been driving for 30 years. I took a couple of nice snap shots of her.

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