Friday. July 3, 1992
Around 7am we departed O'Hare and descend at a low altitude over the Potomac River past the Pentagon, the Lincoln Memorial, Arlington Cemetery and many other landmarks. We had a half hour wait for our luggage at the old 1950's style Washington National Airport. (in 1997 this airport was renamed to Ronald Reagan. I never understood this. It was named for our first president for goodness sake!)
The temperature is around 76 degrees and it is drizzling on and off.
Staying at the Tabard Inn on N. Street, two blocks south east of DuPont Circle. It is over 70 years old and quite quaint. (I found it very interesting, but if you are with a female, forget it. It is not that clean.) The neighborhood has many old brown & gray stones, embassies and hip shopping within two blocks of the tube station. Our room is one large garret at the top of the hotel . A deck with a table and two chairs is accessed through the kitchen window--no joke! We have interesting views of other roof tops from the bed room windows and a view of the garden of the restaurant we have a continental breakfast at each morning. We descend 4 or 5 stories down an escalator into the tube (subway) and a quick trip to the Mall.
Upon our arrival we walked around the hotel area and discovered a nice little coffee bar and got coffee mochas. Walked over to DuPont Circle Park and shared benches with a diverse variety of folks including many well-behaved homeless.
We took the tube to the Smithsonian Festival of Folk Life on the Mall this year featured the Maroon Culture in the Americas, mostly around the extreme NE. corner of South America in French, Independent Ghana and Jamaican islands. It also featured New Mexico and native American Music.
Today we only visited the Moroon cultural section. I took nice videos of La Moraille Antoine, a specialiste D' Arts Boni from 97317 Apatou in French Guyane who was helping another fellow paint the triangular part over a entrance door to his home that used symbols that indicated he was a fine person and helped attract females. Susan meanwhile was learning the children's game "Fly bird, fly bird"--very cute. We had fantastic food at the Maroon Jamaican food stand consisting of the combo plate of jerked beef and chicken with rice and spiced meat paste in pocket "Empanaoa." Stef drank mango guava beverage. We chatted with a Smithsonian photographer and a local couple.
Day 2: Saturday, July 4, 1992
Sunny, temperature is in the 80's and a bit muggy, but bearable.
We awoke very early and took a short walk about the neighborhood adjacent to the East of our hotel, the Tabard, which is at 1739 "N" Street NW., 1 1/2 blocks from DuPont Circle. We came across homeless men again on benches at the Daniel Webster stature at Scott circle. The Tabard is over 70 years old located on a quiet tree lined street of 3 or 4 flats occupied with government lobby groups, law offices and three restaurants in addition to its own. Upon our return we had lemon bread and granola for continental breakfast. We then "tubed" the "red line" to the National Archives just in time to hear a stirring rendition of musical selections by the customed "US Fife and Drums Corps." Then came a town crier announcing the arrival of, and reading of the Declaration of Independence.
It was read by a gentleman who looked somewhat like Benjamin Franklin with his glasses. It was getting hot and the light very bright. He took the glasses off once to mop his brow and pad his eyes. Some act! Following was a We recreation on Constitutional Avenue, in front of the Archives, of a skirmish by the Colonialists and the British with hand loaded muskets and a canon. Was quite the moving experience.
Met a few interesting folks from different parts of the country and some kids from the adjacent neighborhood.
Had great location to view the parade that turned a corner about 200 feet to our left. We waited an hour and it stepped of right on the minute. Many ethnic groups, but didn't see Irish or Polish!
We walked over to the Smithsonian Castle and took a break in the members lounge. Had a very nice lunch in the member's cafeteria of asparagus soup, and since it was Saturday and ordinarily I would be sharing breakfast with Don Breitfelder, I had a full breakfast to brace me for an active day. Ice tea tasted so good because it was getting a bit hot outside!
Since the restaurant is in the basement of the Natural History Museum, we took a very short walk about.
We were strolling on the mall opposite the "Castle" when we came upon a marvelous Bolivian folk music group consisting of a master pan pipe player, two rhythm guitarists and a fellow playing a small double strung high pitched guitar like a mandolin. We were mesmerized for an hour or two, they were so good! Purchased a 60" audio tape which was no where as good as the soulful feeling of the live performance. Also video taped 4 or 5 numbers and audio taped 2 or 3 numbers. The pan pipe player had many different sized pan pipes, one resulting in very long bass tones.
We rode the antique carousel on the mall, then visited the wonderfully "English" Enid Haupt garden in the front of the Castle (if the Mall is in the rear).
This was a restful and delightful experience, especially so as we ran across several pools and fountains with cool water. It was such a hot and humid day. The hanging baskets from gas street lamps were filled with lots of hanging ivy and colorful flowers. Staked out our "spot" for the fireworks display about 5:00 PM in front of the Castle facing the Washington Monument. The fire works going off behind the monument silhouetted it. The display was not too impressive, particularly when compared to the spectacular ones set off from a barge in the lake in front of Grant park in front of the loop in Chicago. We sat near folks who had the Roberta Flack concert that was going on in front of the Washington Monument on their radio. Left early to avoid hordes we were warned would be waiting at the entrance to and even more on the platform down in the tube. Arrived at DuPont Circle and walked about and found Gusti's Italian Restaurant with it own fire works display which were fountains lining the corner curb! We sat outside at the sidewalk tables. We were all given sparklers and lit them all about the same time.
Day 3, Sunday, July 5, 1992
Today it is sunny, but a bit heavy with ozone. The temperature is about 87 degrees and not very humid.
We took a cab to the Vietnam Veterans near the Foggy Bottom neighborhood, George Washington University and close to the Lincoln Memorial. The tube didn't go near it and because of the humidity and distance we chose not to walk.
I don't feel I got much. Only shot video. The "right" people doing the "right" thing with significant "leave behind mementos" was not taking place even though it was the day after the Fourth of July. Very difficult to make images when nothing of any content is transpiring even with dynamic visuals. Trying to video it was even harder. Sometimes I zoomed into or out of nothingness by time I completed the zoom!
Also visited the Lincoln Memorial around 11am, by which time it had gotten hot. From a distance he seems so flat because it is dark inside and contrasts with the bright white marble columns on the exterior. Inside, he seems to glow as the light comes in! Lincoln's hands are not sign language for the deaf. I checked with a Park service staff person. Got good video.
Took a cab to the Folk Fair and had Jamaican chicken, beef and rice and guava mango drink for lunch. Again met interesting locals at the picnic table we shared. Then went to South West Indian area and heard Fernando Cellicion a master flute player and craftsman. A very large group encircled him, yet it was almost totally silent! His playing creates a peaceful aura. He was followed by some of the Concha Pueblo Indian Dancers: Eagle, hoop and others.
Also heard a good Mariachi band: 1 trumpet, 2 violins and 2 guitarists, one a very large bass version.
Then viewed the "Seeds of Change" to the Southwest exhibit at the Natural History Museum. Also saw an exhibit about the First Ladies.
Had dinner of 1/2 slab of lip smackin' good ribs and tasty cole slaw at "The Front Page" 1/2 block south of DuPont Circle on 19th street. Took short neighborhood walk. Are we tired!
Day 4, Monday, July 6, 1992
Sunny, pleasant clouds, unseasonable low humidity with temperatures in the mid 70's.
Saw items featured at the 1886 Century of Progress Fair in the Arts and Industry Building. Also interacted with a wonderful hands on exhibit: "Psychology: Understanding Ourselves, Understanding Others," which marked the centennial of the American Psychological Association. Many exercises were the same ones researchers conduct in their studies. Quite illuminating! "Giving and Receiving Instructions," an exercise in effective and accurate communication involved verbally telling someone else how to reconstruct an arrangement of geometric shapes that the other person could not see. Really could observe how communication can be misconstrued and misunderstood leading to major mix-ups.
We took a civil-service exam used in China 1,300 years ago to test for leadership qualities by drawing a square with your left hand and a circle with your right hand at the same time. Learned how to use our emotions (as reflected in galvanic skin responses) to help the tortoise beat the hare and bio-feedback interactive experience to relax. The exhibit was developed at the University of Toronto.
Day 5, Tuesday, July 7, 1992
Sunny, no clouds. 85 degrees, not too humid.
This morning as I was out walking, it seemed people were walking slower than I am accustomed to in Chicago. I guess this is due to the heat and humidity of a southern town. Also have noticed that restaurants are not open real late, although am told up in the Adams area they are as well as more night life and ethnic diversity.
Susan has a wash & set at a shop around the Circle run by a group of diverse immigrants. I walked around DuPont Circle and took stills of a changing group of a dozen bicycle messengers who hang out there between calls.
Went to the Hirschhorn and saw works by Morris Lewis, Larry Rivers' "History of Russia," Warhol, Lichtenstein, Cornell, Bacon, Oldenburg, Matisse, Rodin and many others. All the great masterpieces by those great contemporary modern artists. Could have used an extra minimum of two hours. Wonderful circular hall of many sculptures I knew well from my studies at the Institute of Design. Instead of seeing photos in a book I now could walk around and bend down to get different angles of views.
Also visited the spectacular African Art Museum behind the Smithsonian Castle.
Saw a fine show of political cartoons at the National Archives going back to before Charles Nast.
Walked over to the Dutch Mill Deli and had lunch.
Day 6, Wednesday, July 8, 1992
Partly cloudy, 88 degrees, humid, musty in groves of trees.
Locals tell us the temperature should be in the mid to high 90's with high humidity. On the 150 mile drive to Colonial Williamsburg we stopped at two of many plantations along route 5.
The interstate from DC. to Richmond was beautiful: slightly hilly and tree lined on both sides . The divider has stands of original trees so you didn't see the other side. Unfortunately time did not permit seeing important civil war battlefields like Mananas, the Wilderness, Spotsylvania or those around Richmond.
We took an old two lane blacktop road lined with deep standing woods and thickets where many civil war battles were fought. We turned off onto a dirt road for about 5 miles and then another for two more miles till we reached our final destination: Shirley Plantation along the James River, the "highway" of colonial times since the woods were so thick roads did not exist, only old Indian trails.
We continued to Berkley Plantation and I took some video of turtles sunning themselves on a log. Blue tail flies, dragon flies and some other fearsome insect seemed attracted to poor Susan. It had long curved pinchers like horns off its head! It was quite docile but if enlarged a million times would be great in a horror movie!
Both plantations were occupied during the Civil War but not destroyed because the owners were friends and/or classmates of northern officers who had attended Annapolis together before the war or served together during the Mexican war. Grant had headquartered his troops at Berkeley. Berkeley was more grand and had wonderful box gardens. The first ship building yards in the US were at Berkeley.
We are staying at the Cedars, across from William & Mary College. It is a small two story colonial style bed & breakfast on Jamestown Road.
Had a wonderful seafood dinner at Berret's and walked about the Market Square area that evening after 9pm. I am suffering from an allergy from the local vegetation.
Day 7, Thursday, July 9, 1992
100 degrees!! Bright sun. Unbelievable dripping humidity. We partake of lemonade every two blocks!
Took walking tour of Williamsburg with a very knowledgeable woman guide. We stood in the shade of trees. It is very hot and the humidity is extreme. We drink lemonade as we go. I am grabbing video "snap shots" of crafts people's sign that hang out over their shops. Ate lunch at Chowning's and dinner at King's Tavern. Heard Paul Vroomer at both taverns. He plays lute and recorder with a guitar accompanist. I had a horrible attack of hay fever or something and is very fatigued.
Day 8, Friday, July 10, 1992
102 degrees! Very Humid, extreme discomfort!
I took an early morning (7:30am) walk down Glouster Street. Ran into an re-enactor all dressed up, speaking with him the entire length of the street. Susan was devoted to domestic chores of doing "da warsh."
We visited the magnificent Abby Rockefeller Folk Art Museum containing wonderfully elegant weather vanes, toys, primitive "Outsider" paintings, quilts, coverlets, etc. Very imaginative and unique visions and solutions. One was a magnificent butterfly weather vain.
We took a fine tour of the Governor's Palace. The reception entry hallway was decorated with designs made up of rifles and pistols with their barrels pointed toward the center and crossed swords. Wonderful formal gardens. One featured bushes planted and trimmed in a large maze you entered and tried to exit elsewhere. In the blistering heat that was not a treat!
Around 3pm the heat and humidity was so intense, we returned to our Bed and Breakfast, took showers and napped, we were so sapped of energy.
We had a wonderful late meal at the Grand old elegantly understated Williamsburg Inn. A tasty trio of piano, bass and drums played the great old standards from the 30', 40's and a few from the 50's. There was a large hardwood dance floor surrounded by dinning tables. One dance couple was very enjoyable to watch. The wait staff was most gracious.
Day 9, Saturday, July 11, 1992
Today a brilliant sun with is producing a high temperature of 101 degrees and extreme humidity again.
I took an earlier walk through the village than yesterday around 7 am. A few joggers and walkers plus a van full of female elementary school teachers from California who would alight from their powder blue van, auto focus cameras in hand, grab some snaps and leap back in the van, drive about 250 feet and repeat the process all over again! My only actors were a friendly cat that followed me about, some chickens and a lamb.
We spent at least four hours at Carter's Grove Plantation touring the Manor House decorated in 1930's style. They also had restored slave quarters which gave you a feel of the daily existence and social order of that time. An African American guide was very effective at relating the differences to today's life.
We also toured the Winthrop Rockefeller Archaeological Museum, which most appropriately, is underground.
The heat and humidity, walking around was terrible. I tried to imagine what it must have been to be a slave and work out in the fields from sunrise till sundown under these kind of conditions. Beads of perspiration running down our foreheads burning our eyes.
I purchased a book done by the Writer's Project during the depression of oral histories from those aged slave survivors. It is very good. Sometimes surprising when former slaves who were well treated speak well of their masters and conditions.
We drove 140 miles to B&B on a farm 15 miles north of Charlottesville near Earlyville owned by a mid-50's matchen and her 72 year old former W.W.II fighter pilot. They are in the horsy set, having three on the farm. Ate at a small crossroads cafe and had great BBQ sandwiches, fries, cole slaw and chocolate mouse pie.
Sunday, July 12, 1992
Extreme intense but hazy sunlight. Very humid with 102 degree temperature.
We're served a wonderful full breakfast of eggs, sausage, biscuits, English muffins, marmalade and great coffee and Earl Grey Tea made with pure well water all served on fine china and beautiful serving pieces. We were the only guests as opposed to the Cedars B&B where we had animated conversations with 3 to 6 other couples each of the three mornings we stayed in Colonial Williamsburg.
We are suffering fatigue from 4 days of intense heat. I got up by 6 am and drove off in search of the elusive Blue Ridge Mountain sunrise but it was very hazy and never occurred. There is a tremendous expensive real estate development (like Indian Hill outside Cincinnati) in the area, so most of the other horse farms are gone and the charm of the images he was trying to capture was scarred by large "pseudo" mansions."
We arrived at Monticello just about 9am and still had to queue up for a short wait for a good tour. Even this early the heat and humidity were getting bad. The tour was fabulous. We walked all around the grounds in ghastly heat. Wonderful vistas, a large vegetable garden and a fish pond for fresh fish.
Jefferson had an ingenious system of having his out building half underground so he never saw them when looking out on his front yard. They were on either side of the vast front lawn area and connected on both sides of the estate including the kitchen to the main house by two tunnels and a dumb waiter.
Friday july 3 1992 around 7am we departed ...
Friday, July 17, 1992
Washington, DC, District of Columbia, United States
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