After Camden, our first stop
was Portland, the largest city in Maine, and situated on Casco Bay, an inlet
off the Atlantic Ocean, which has many islands, both inhabited and uninhabited.
The city played a major role during the Second World War and over 200 Liberty
ships were built there. The downtown area is mainly red brick buildings which
were built in the mid-1800s after the fourth major fire in the city – fire
seems to have defined a lot of places along this coast, eg Belfast where we
were a few weeks ago. The waterfront
area used to be a no-go area, even for the police apparently, but has been
revitalised over the past 20 years with restaurants, shops, galleries and
boutiques. We had an excellent meal at Scales Restaurant which had been
recommended by Colleen, the owner of our cottage in Camden.
We enjoyed the Portland Museum
of Art because of its varied collection of art. The main exhibition was of 4
sculptors (Lachaise, Laurent, Nadelman, and Zorach) who came to the US from
Europe in the early 20th century and revolutionised sculpture in the
country – we are not really into sculpture but these were some of the best we
have ever seen.
The gallery also has a very good painting collection including
some by the French Impressionists (Monet, Renoir, Pissarro) and many early
American artists. One impressive feature was a mobile exhibition of migrating
birds made out of paper mache hanging from the ceiling of the gallery spaces
which had been made by one of the ladies who works in the gallery.
We
also happened to be in Portland when there was a large LGBT Pride march through
the streets. This was part of similar marches throughout the country. All
states in the US recognised same-sex marriage after the Supreme Court in 2015
ruled that state bans on same-sex marriages was unconstitutional – shame
Australia!!! No comments necessary
We
also went on a harbour cruise through Casco Bay and the islands. One of the
features of the bay are the number of lighthouses, 4 of which we were able to
see. Most are still in use, even the most distant one, Ram Island Ledge
Lighthouse, which was bought by a surgeon through public tender in 2010 for
$190,000. There are also a number of old forts on the islands, a remnant of the
war with the British. Two highlights on the trip were the osprey nest on an old
pylon in the middle of the harbour and a pair of eagles on Great Diamond
Island. Both had chicks in their nests and, as seen by the size of the nests,
have been coming back to the same nest for a number of years.
From
Portland we drove to Kennebunkport, but instead of taking the highway, went via
the coastal route. Although there were
some nice spots, a lot of the beaches just south of Portland, are very crowded
with lots of cheap motels and condos. However, everything changes as you get
closer to Kennebunkport.
2022-05-20