He Said:

To start off, I'd like to get a few things straight . Despite popular opinion, we're actually on a cultural voyage, not a journey to sample the native alcohols in every city. OK, we're doing both. But to put things in perspective, having a drink is a way of life over here. It´s something to be enjoyed and savored over good conversation with great company (I'll get to that later), not something you do to get trashed. You see, in the USA we are bombarded with hypocritical nonsense from the powers that be. You can die for your country at 19, but you can't order a drink. Beer is bad for you when you're 20, but the next day when you're 21 the government allows you to be bullied by enormous marketing campaigns thus driving you to drink more which in turn pads the government's pockets with huge tax revenues. But mostly, we abuse it in the USA, because it is treated with such a taboo status when we're young that we go crazy once we leave the nest. When you tell a kid to stay out of the cookie jar, the first thing he's going to do when you step out of the house is get in that cookie jar . Sometimes Puritanism only exacerbates what it is trying to avoid.

Second, I think my sense of sarcasm might have been misread in our Dublin posting. I love the fact that Europeans love to sit down and talk politics. They enjoy a healthy debate and don't take it too personally. We're not supposed to talk about religion or politics, but do we ever ask ourselves why? Because we're afraid of hurting each other's feelings? Because we'd rather discuss why Sally Jane got kicked off American Idol? Because we simply don't care enough? These are all rhetorical questions that I don't have the answers to. If I did, and if I also had a free pass to Yale and an oil-rich family, I might be president, too. Now don't take that personally!!! See what I´m saying?

Lisbon is a beautiful city with red-tiled roofs, with beer that is cheaper than water, with many similar to San Francisco including their own Golden Gate Bridge, homes skirting seven hills, cable cars, dry weather with lots of sun. The only thing that seems to be missing is BALCO and a juiced up home run hitter. It is a sports crazy town, though, as just about every other balcony anchors down a Portuguese flag in support of their World Cup team. Since they play tomorrow, we are looking for a lot of excitement.

Our pension is high up in the Alfama district, which is an old fishermen's quarter that is one of only two neighborhoods to survive a major earthquake in 1755 . The alleyways are narrow, the smells are of garlic, and the noises include small cars that rip around corners like its turn 3 at IMS. Our place has a big balcony overlooking the northwest corner of Lisbon and is right next to the Castelo Sao Jorge (no, Steph, not Posada) where Vasco da Gama was met when he returned from discovering India. It's not hard to imagine a small fleet of wooden vessels with tattered sails making their way up the Rio Tejo as the city stirred to life with their arrival.

Anyhow, enough of that. Time for an afternoon gingha followed by some late-night... fado, the traditional music of Portugal.

2/2.

She Said:

I think I am going to have to write my "she saids" first, who can follow that diatribe???? Again, Chad gave you a great overview of culture, politics, and a feel for the people. Here comes some reality...

We arrived after an entire day of travel from Dublin, then Porto, then Lisbon. We got off the regional train one stop too soon and had to navigate the subway system to get to Alfama (the neighborhood of choice for our Pensao). Not too hard for New Yorkers, however, we looked the tourist part as I had my big pack on the back and small day pack on the front. I am like a walking backpack back and front! Anyway, after a few more transfers, we made it to a stop Chad felt was closest to where we wanted to go . The weather is much warmer here and the sun was beating down on us and our packs. I said, "hey, there is a pension, let's try that one". Chad said ok to appease me, but clearly he had his sights on the very top of the hill where our planned pensao was located. He pretended to entertain that we could actually stay there when I looked at the room and described the high ceilings and clean bathroom in the room. However, the look on his face told me I better load up again and get ready for the long hike up. I will say this, Chad carried both of our day packs so all I had was the big pack on my back. BUT, don't fool yourself, we walked up about 1,000 stairs in the blaring sun, dripping sweat, and reminding ourselves how we needed to work off the food/alcohol (or at least that was my inner cheerleader). Remember that Jamie??? When we finally made it up, I prayed to the pensao gods for there to be availability and for the place to be clean. Yes on both accounts (thanks Jason Chalik and family for your contribution to this place). Therapy talk, give credit where credit is due . Chad was so right, this place was great. The room was fine, however, the rooftop garden was unbelievable overlooking all of Lisbon. Totally worth the trek...

We went to eat after we cleaned up and ended up watching the end of the Brazil game with the locals while I ate the not-to-be-touched bread basket and cheese (Chad not very happy with me since I broke a golden rule in his guidebook about eating what they put down in Portugal). That actually brings me to my first side note, cheap "things" in Europe... Obviously I am not naiveté enough to think anything is free (except heat in NYC). However, if it says cheap, I would like to believe it means at least cheaper...Not always the case. For example, RyanAirlines. They say cheap flights, maybe so, however, once you add in the tax, charge to check your bag, overweight charges, and money for coffee while onboard, the flight ain't so cheap anymore! Next, food is cheap in Portugal. Yes, I agree. However, they totally get you because as soon as you sit down, they bring water, bread, cheese, shrimp cocktail, etc. all for a separate charge without telling you. You touch it, you pay.

Anyway, the next day we went touring. Taking local buses/trams has been a blast. It is so much better than taking cabs or cars. We got to Belem and everything was closed (again). But it didn't matter, we walked through the sites and took bundles of pictures. We then rewarded ourselves with infamous Pastel de Belem, a delicious pastry unique to Portugal.

Here is my favorite part of Lisbon so far...for all those that we are making jealous, you're really going to hate us now. I am going to paint you picture of the rest of our day, utter Euphoria. We came back to the pensao and got a bottle of vinho verde (4 euro!). Here's the scene: Chad and I sitting atop the rooftop garden overlooking Lisbon, drinking a bottle of vinho verde, listening to Portuguese music Chad so thoughtfully downloaded into our IPOD, and watched a beautiful sunset as the birds surrounded us. Need I say more?

Tonight, Fado and dinner...Tomorrow, off to the Algarve!
We love and miss you all!