APPROX 8:23 AM - Our train to the Croatian capital of Zagreb was supposed to leave Thessaloniki, Greece. According to the ticketing agent in the station, it is not usually a crowded train, so we had our own room with semi-comfortable couches and bunk beds above.

Our route was to take us through the heart of the Balkans and the former republics of Yugoslavia, which literally means "union of the Slavs". The former country is comprised of many different regions, many different cultures, and many different ways to worship god. As a result, the people of Slovenia, Croatia, Serbia, Bosnia, Macedonia, etc. have traditionally had some difficulties living under the same umbrella. Most people recognize many of these regions from the wars that raged here in the 1990s, when it seems that all sides involved committed horrible crimes to the extent of mass executions and genocides. Everyone recalls the name of Serbian leader Slobodan Milosevic (who happened to die on our wedding day), but not many people realize that there was a direct phone line to former Croatian leader Tudman. They were enemies, yet they were secretly conspiring to conquer and divide the lands between them, much the same way that Hitler secretly met with Stalin.

Our train to the Croatian capital of Zagreb was scheduled to take us through Macedonia and Serbia on the way to Croatia, and it was supposed to leave at 8:23.

APPROX 8:56 AM - The train actually left.

APPROX 9:20 AM - The conductor came in to take our tickets, and we silently wondered if we'd ever see them again. We tried to ask for a copy or receipt, but he didn't understand and was gone as quickly as he appeared. At this point, we realized we were the only English-speakers on the train, let alone the only tourists. And we now had exactly no proof that we had even purchased tickets to be on the train.

APPROX 9:45 AM - The next person to enter our room was the Greek security officer. When we told him we were going to Zagreb, he shook his head and expressed concern that we were on the wrong train. He took our passports and went to check with the conductor.

APPROX 10:02 AM - The Greek policeman returned with our passports and told us that we were indeed on the right train. We realized that we had hit the border between Greece and Macedonia. The crossing consisted of a fairly lengthy stop on the Greek side, followed by another, identically lengthy stop on the Macedonian side. We also knew we were heading into a new country because the alphabet changed from Greek to Cyrillic. Think Russian-looking.

APPROX 10:50 AM - Since it was nice and cool that morning, we didn't necessarily think about the climate of our cabin. Once it began to warm, though, we realized we didn't have air conditioning.

APPROX 11:15 AM - A few minutes later Chad began to get hungry and Alli needed a cup of coffee. Chad headed toward the front of the train in search of snacks, and he found the locomotive. Chad headed toward the rear of the train and found a window facing back at the tracks. What Chad did not find was a food car.

APPROX 11:17 AM - Since Alli always makes sure we have "train snacks" for "travel day," we formed a system for rationing what we did have: 7 peanuts per hour followed by two sips each of water, chips to be opened for lunch only, sesame sticks to be consumed one at a time, never within 30 minutes of each other (a.k.a. two per hour).

11:35 AM - Shortly after realizing the train was also lacking toilet paper and power outlets, we decided to take notes on things as they occurred.

1:30 PM - In the time between the border and Macedonian capital of Skopje, we slept and read our books. When we pulled into the Skopje station, we were happy that we had passed five hours fairly quickly, that is until we realized that the time changed and we lost an hour. It was 12:30 all over again.