NAT WROTE THIS BLOG ENTRY ...

We woke up 2 days ago to a beautiful sunny day in Banos, a somewhat touristy city surrounded by hills and a volcano and known for its many thermal baths . This was just what the doctor ordered following our adventures in the Quilotoa area during the previous 6 days. Our day began with a visit to Las Piscinas de la Virgen, a collection of 3 concrete rectangular thermal baths of different temperatures located immediately next to a waterfall just minutes down the street from our hostal, where we soaked our stiff bodies for 90 minutes or so. The baths were built in 1950 and are therefore a bit dated, but for $2 each and with our expectations in check, it was enjoyable.

Later, we headed to Spa Garden El Refugio where we enjoyed an afternoon of alternative treatments in a very serene environment surrounded by fruit orchards, flower gardens, natural springs, pure air, lots of wind coming up from the river and ecological trails. We chose the full body mud treatment and the eucalyptus steam baths, and Tim added a candle ear cleaning treatment. Before all of that could begin though, we were asked to walk barefoot through a path of reflection and forgiveness, forgiveness not only to ourselves but to others . The path led us to a fire pit into which we symbolically threw all that is holding us back. It then entered into a tunnel formed by hibiscus branches under which we strolled to find the sun again on the other side. The path then continued up to La Casa del Viento (the house of wind) with a number of philosophical sayings and proverbs painted on wooden plaques in Spanish along the way. Once we arrived at La Casa del Viento we were to admit to one another all the things that we were holding back and then, after continuing to the Wall of Pardon, ask to be pardoned for all the things that we have done to ourselves and to others, whether consciously or unconsciously. The path then turned towards the treatment area to El Sendero de los Maestros (The Pathway of the Sages) where we encountered statues of Lord Krishna, Buddha, Yogananda and Jesus, erected one by one along the way, each situated under a tree … it was very peaceful and one got a sense of lightness being there. Then, just before entering the treatment area, our final act consisted in walking ankle deep in a long stone lined pool, a cleansing walk of sorts.

Our first treatment was the mud body mask . The two of us in bathing suits, sitting on plastic stools in a large room, staring at wooden bowls containing warm mud … that's how this treatment began. We were asked to apply it to ourselves as the attendant watched us from her plastic stool on the other side of the room. I must say, that was a little strange, however the strangest and funniest part was yet to come. The attendant turned on a flat screen television and we were to move to the hip-hop music as the dancers on the screen did while she continued to observe us … it was so insane and funny at the same time … somehow, I don’t think this would work back home.

After showering down, we were led to the steam room area, a large room with window overlooking the canyon and river below. We each sat inside a wooden box, with eucalyptus leaves at our feet, and a wooden board with an opening for the neck and head enclosing us. We could control the amount of steam using a lever inside the box. A towel was placed around our necks to help keep the hot steam in and to absorb the water beads collecting on our faces . Within 15minutes, the attendant opened the boxes and threw a bucket of cold water at our feet followed by one over our heads before starting the whole process over again. Ten minutes later, we were made to sit in small square pools of cold water and once again we were doused with cold water over our legs and heads. We returned into the boxes a third time, this time for 5 minutes, before going to the corner on the other side of the room to be hosed down. We sipped a delicious homemade brew of medicinal tea and ate a substantial serving of papaya and pineapple before proceeding to Tim’s candle ear cleaning treatment.

So … all in all El Refugio was FUN and like nothing we’ve ever done before. It certainly felt more natural and less restricted than spas with rigorous protocols. It may not be for everyone but for those without expectations and who remain fluid, this was different and refreshing.