06 Tuk or Bust Too

Thursday, June 20, 2024
Tombstone Campground, Yukon, Canada
From Twin Lakes Territorial Park (TP) it took us four hours to reach the Demster (Highway #5, #8&#10 in NWT). Starting our trek North, we crossed the Klondike River and within an hour and a half we arrived at Tombstone TP where we were fortunate to get a site at the edge of the rushing North Klondike River. This campground is surrounded by mountains and has a great Visitor Centre with knowledgeable employees; we also shared some of their Labrador Tea while using the internet. 
After two days alongside the river, we headed North again with a quick stop at the viewing point for Tombstone Mountain then again at the Blackstone River. We overshot our random camping spot, so continued trekking along at speeds between ten and seventy kilometres per hour (kmph). There was no sign of activity at the Gyrofalcon nest and we eventually arrived at Engineer Creek TP; the creek has a reddish tinge at the campground that is supplied by Red Creek which is fed from a Sulphur Spring. A hinge broke on a cabinet due to rough road which was easily replaced since we had extra.
The weather has been cold overnight but sunny and almost warm during the day. We saw our first Grizzly when we broached Eagle Plains. After filling up with expensive gas, we refilled our water bottles plus camper tank and continued on to the Rock River TP where we spent two nights. Using the BBQ and the shelter’s wood stove we feasted on the Halibut purchased in Stewart BC; the meal was delicious coupled with a nice bottle of wine. 
Continuing North, we crossed into the NorthWest Territory (NWT) and traversed two Rivers, the Peel and MacKenzie, via ferry (Peel crossing uses rare cable winch) before ending up at the JAK TP at southern edge of Inuvik. The JAK campground was great; having reasonable rates, clean hot showers and lots of room for Yukon to roam. We disconnected “Wild” so we could just take Storm up to Tuktoyaktuk and the Arctic Ocean for a day trip; this road will become harder and harder to maintain with global warming (road closed two days due to washout just before we arrived). Overall, the NWT part of the Demster is really smooth and one can easily average 70kmph; the Yukon average is 30-50kmph (sometimes slower) - in both Territories, it is extremely dusty and really muddy if it rains.
The highlight of the trip to Tuk was SUCCESS, NOT BUST and seeing ten Caribou; also, pairs of Tundra Swans inhabited most of the small lakes and Sandhill Cranes were evident alongside the roadway. Tuktoyaktuk Is not the prettiest town but Cindy and Yukon sure looked terrific posing in front of the Arctic Ocean even with the temperature just above freezing.
We left Inuvik and random camped on the edge of Frog Creek between the two ferries. This was a great one night stand since no traffic can pass in the land of the midnight sun and Yukon had free reign.
Off again in the morning, we caught the first ferry across the Peel but couldn't find a random site in the Tundra so continued to Rock River and random camped there; so nice, we stayed two days. Rock river is really clear but too cold to take a bath; our camper has two showers (inside and out) which made life great. Got to see my first Harlequin Ducks swim by our camper; this wild spot, a little bit too close to a dusty road is idealic but no fish that I could catch. 
Off early, we headed further South with a garbage stop at the Arctic Circle; then off again to Eagle Plains where we bought expensive gas and a couple of desserts, also expensive. The road across the Plains is really bad with an average speed of less than thirty kmph; once we had descended Seven Mile Hill using Storm's low gears it was time to hunt for a campsite. We ended up at Little Bear Lake in a one unit campsite which required us backing up a couple hundred meters since there was no room to turn around. We thought we would stay at least a couple of days but around 20:00 hoards of large and small Mosquitoes arrived and drove us into the camper.
After a restless night being harassed by many small Mosquitoes, we left early in search of a more open campsite and ended up at one of our favourite spots on the bank of the Blackstone River. The camper is ten feet from the river and Yukon can run free here, plus the wind or a fire kept the Mosquitoes at bay though I still had to catch these critters with the vacuum before bedtime. We spent three relatively quiet days playing games, reading, organizing and cleaning the camper. 
On our way to our last campsite on the Demster at Tombstone TP which is one of our favourite spots, we saw another Fox that was in its black phase. The potholes in the roads have been filled for us tourists and we got a site close enough to hear the river. By evening all but reservable sites were taken and after some thunder showers we had a wonderful campfire with a simple dinner. Yukon played with his toys until it was bedtime for all but still broad daylight.
So ends our SUCCESSFUL trek to Tuktoyaktuk and the Arctic Ocean. Stay tuned for the next Blog for our return to Whitehorse.
Tidbits:
  • Bear 14:0 Moose; Caribou 10, Sheep 5
  • Many, many Willow Ptarmigan changing colour
  • Lots of Snowshoe Hares plus 4 Foxes
  • Demster Travelogue: https://yukon.ca/en/dempster-highway-travelogue
  • Eagle Plains gas $2.35/L; Inuvik $2.30/L 
  • Inuvik has 57 days without sunset
  • Inuvik to Tuktoyaktuk road opened 2017
  • Ferries should sell dried Whitefish :)
  • I wonder what Bears eat this time of year?
  • SPOT died; hopefully replaceable in Whitehorse - using what3words for locations 
  • The app iOverlander shows nearly all random campsites; however it removes the fun exploring
  • Tombstone TP has WiFi for reservation system :)
SPOT:
  • Tombstone TP 2024 06 06&07 & 20: http://maps. google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=64.50583,-138.22482&ll=64.50583,-138.22482&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1
  • Engineer Creek TP 2024 06 08: http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=65.35230,-138.26791&ll=65.35230,-138.26791&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1
  • Rock River TP 2024 06 09&10: http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=66.91468,-136.35751&ll=66.91468,-136.35751&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1
  • JAĶ TP NWT 2024 06 11&12: http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=68.33398,-133.65962&ll=68.33398,-133.65962&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1
  • Tuktoyaktuk: https://maps.app.goo.gl/w32iBTYRKvgpP4Rh9
  • Frog Creek NWT Random 2024 06 13: https://maps.app.goo.gl/t7xWVtQabknm58kJ9
  • Rock River Random 2024 06 14&15: https://maps.app.goo.gl/Hj9L8pC7kLnqzDaL9
  • Little Bear Lake Random 2024 06 16: https://goo.gl/maps/LkpmZsREBNM4ADMm6
  • Blackstone River Random 2024 06 17-19: https://goo.gl/maps/FpPVSvdzo1NSqNUF6
Other Entries

Comments

Sean
2024-06-23

Cindy and Tom. Absolutely glorious pictures! You’re are both very blessed and thank you for sharing! I will share with Barbara soon. Be well and safe adventures. Love Sean and Victoria.

Ranger Deb
2024-06-24

Looks like you’re having a great time!! Lots of rain and mosquitoes here this year!! At least no forest fires!!

tracy
2024-06-24

Wowzer! Sure enjoyed the pictures and videos! Beautiful.

2025-02-09

Comment code: Ask author if the code is blank