07 All Around The Circle

Tuesday, August 21, 2007
Fogo, Newfoundland, Canada
Had a leisurely drive to Dildo Run Provincial Park; I will use this basecamp to explore the Kittiwake Coast. I unloaded "baby beemer" and hopefully can utilize her to complete "the circle," which is much longer by road than by boat. The park is beautiful with most campsites, including mine, being close to the ocean and the hiking trails provide good views of the numerous small islands.

Rain, mainly showers, precludes bike use but I will do the circle backwards to save Fogo until later since it includes a nice ferry ride (and cheaper by bike) plus would allow for more exploring .

Moreton's Harbour is an extremely well sheltered large bay with lots of fishing cottages but has no stores of any kind -- but it does have three non-descript churches. The next town over has more facilities for processing and shipping fish. In other words, a bit of a "ho-hum" rich town with quite a bit of new house contruction in progress.

Twillingate is one of the oldest towns in Newfoundland with one of the oldest churches remaining, St Peter's. Spent time just walking around town and a had great fish and chips lunch; then did a five km hike to the Top Of Twillingate -- tremendous views that the new camera couldn't do justice.

Was up at 06:00 to give baby her first solo ride on the ferry to Fogo Island. It was a great day although I forgot to step off the edge of the world at Brimstone Head, which is in the town of Fogo. I could live in a place like Fogo Island, likely in one of the smaller communities like Island Harbour or Tilting, with a kayak at my doorstep . A twenty minute shower started as soon as I returned to the ferry ramp -- outwaited it in the terminal. A great day and my eyes are fully sated.

Packed the bike in the van for the slow trip to Terra Nova tomorrow.

Tidbits:
- Words to "I's The B'y" at: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/I's_The_B'y 
- The fishing embargo has decimated many of the small coastal towns in Newfoundland; for example, Fogo Island had 6500 residents in the 1970's but only 2,800 now --- many a cheap cottage by the sea is available.
- Twillingate and Fogo are island and town names.
- Instead of me being homeless, perhaps I am the last of the Beothuk; a local nomadic native tribe wiped out by the "whiteman" with his diseases (measles, etc.) and liquor -- what do you think ChrisB?
- Brimstone Head on Fogo is one of the "Four Corners of the Earth" as per the Flat Earth Society.
-Moose have the right of way (and weight) on both roads and hiking trails.
-The "Bay folk" are typically hard working and in great shape; I wouldn't want to arm wrestle them, even the women.
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