10 Burin

Monday, August 27, 2007
St Pierre, Saint Pierre and Miquelon
The Burin Peninsula's interior landscape, hills and rock, is like being in Scotland. The Heritage Road, as opposed to no other road :), is in the middle of the peninsula at the north end but then does a 175km coastal loop at the point. My first night was spent at Frenchman's Cove Provincial Park and I was lucky enough to get a great campsite next to the shore, where I could watch the waves from my bed. The wind kept the mosquitoes away so I read by the water until 22:00.

Up at 06:00, I explored Burin - a really scenic town . The road was made for "baby" but it was an Irish morning (not raining but the mist still got you wet) and extremely foggy going over hill tops -- ergo, not. Going around the loop clockwise through many small towns, I arrived at Fortune an hour before the fast ferry left for St Pierre (or St Pete as the locals call it). So, on a whim, I hopped aboard the Atlantic Jet, where most seats have a seatbelt, and cruised at 32 knots in 8-10 foot seas (wow - top speed is 38 knots on 4 foot seas). I spent the night at Hotel Robert where Al Capone stayed a few times while running liquor during the prohibition. The local fishermen used to put the booze in bags filled with salt in case the "feds" stopped their boats; they would return in a couple of hours to retrieve the liquor once the salt had dispersed into the sea :) - pretty neat.

St Pierre and Miquelon are volcanic islands with a total population of 6,600 extremely friendly people; everyone says at least "bonjour" and they even tolerated my hackneyed French . The fishing embargo really hurt this little island, now their main industry is tourism (mainly people from France). I splurged on dinner having escargots followed by cod cheeks au Basque -- yummy but the local exchange rate is horrendous (1 Euro = $1.50; hopefully Visa will do better). The first afternoon and evening were foggy so I took most of my pictures the following day in the sunshine (walked the tourist route twice). I took an island tour but it would have been nicer if they rented mopeds or bicycles -- a business opportunity??? Next trip I will definitely venture to Miquelon.

After returning to Canada, I drove north and slept in a lay-by with a great view just short of Swift Current. Tomorrow I will invaid the Avalon Peninsula.

Tidbits:
- St Pierre used old tyres to cover steps for traction; a very good recycling venture.
- People drive like the French here; no need for a license on moped/motorbike as long as an insurance sticker attached.
- Clothes, including sexy underwear, stores were fifty percent of the retail market.
- Salt air is really hard on their diesel cars.
- Sailing courses are mandatory for all elementary students.
- Both police and doctors do rotations from France.
- Biggest shock of the day was putting in over $100 of gas into the van (needed 100 litres).
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