Monday 9/26 and Tuesday 9/27
From Meteora, we pointed the "Boss" Saab in the direction of Mt. Olympus. Closing in on our departure from Thessoloniki to Crete we were trying to get the most out of the last two days without too much driving. We stopped at an archaeological dig taking place along the road. Not open to the public and photos prohibited, but the head archaeologist, a young woman, with relatively good English, graciously answered our questions and toured us through the dig. Road construction had uncovered a small village dating to 1500 BC and with some philanthropic contributors, an archaeological team had been assembled to dig and quickly determine if anything of significance was lying under the soil. They had until December and then the road was going to be built. While we were standing there, one of the diggers dug out some shards of pottery and handed it to us. Its an interesting feeling to think you are one of the first to handle a piece of pottery that someone threw in the garbage 3500 years ago. Going on my bucket list is to volunteer for an archaeological dig.
Lots of agriculture on the way to Litochoron, a bustling little community at the foot of Mt. Olympus where we had lunch. Mt. Olympus is 2,917 meters (9,571 ft) high and in Greek mythology, the home of the gods.
The mountain, close to the coast, often shrouded in clouds, is the site of the mythological battle where Zeus defeated the Titans. As legend goes, the gods congregate and meet in the ravines in the privacy of the clouds.
Given the cloud cover we encountered, they must have been meeting the day we were there. Driving up the park road at Mt. Olympus we made it to the end of the road at the point on the mountain where the climbers start their climb to the top. Very little traffic on the snaky steep road that turned into gravel in the final segment. Given the low slung profile of the "The Boss" Saab, it does not appreciate off pavement travel. On the way we stopped at the Monastery of St. Dionysios of Olympous, a very old monastery, bombed by the Germans in 1943. Partially rebuilt, it serves as one of the many reminders of the toll the war took on countries like Greece.
As we were coming off the mountain, the "accommodations committee" met and decided to find a hotel close to the beach near Katerini. Since there were no ruins or other historical attractions to draw the US tourists to this area, our guidebooks were worthless. We were "visual shopping" for a hotel.
The area along the beach could have been a US beach town. Swarms of tourists, beach towel stores, beach packed with overweight sun worshipers and most hotels not meeting the "quite" requirement. On one of our pull to the curb stops to convene the committee on where next, we found ourselves parked in front of a brand new hotel.
The scouting party made the initial exploration, discovered an extraordinarily well appointed hotel and spa at a price of 75 Euros including breakfast and dinner. Sold American. Drive no further, we had found it. Given its close proximity to Thessoloniki, we later made the decision on Tuesday morning to stay the second night.
The Cosmopolitan Hotel and Spa in Paralia, opened in July, is owned by a super hot Greek soccer star that had played for Greece, Germany and now Spain. Finding an investment for his loose change, his mother ran the operation and she and the staff served us extraordinarily well. American tourists are rare for them and she encouraged us to talk up the inn's qualities to our friends. It would receive a very high ranking in US standards so put it on your list. Our waitress and bartender was an immigrant from the Republic of Georgia. She practiced her english on her first American customers.
Up and out on Sunday morning, Mt. Olympus was still covered in clouds. Destination decision: The tomb of King Phillip II in Vergina. The tomb of King Phillip II and a few others was unearthed in 1977 by a French archeologist. An extraordinary find because of the grave contents discovered.
The museum was opened in the 1990's. King Phillip II was significant in Greek history for his leadership in Macedonia, diplomatically, sometimes with a little force, pulling together the many little powers of the city / states spread around Greece. Probably most significant is that he was father to this son called Alexander the Great who went on to conquer a lot of lands for Greece. King Phillip however got a little confident with his powers and at a big gathering for his kingdom's elite, he deemed his status as a god. Apparently someone took great umbrance and considered Phillip's self elevation to a god as a form of heresy. Within in 1 hour of claiming he was a god, King Phillip was apparently assassinated. Alexander, who some say, might have had a little involvement with his dad's murder, rallied the troops, took the top dog position, became "Great" and the rest as they say is history. This site doesn't get the credit it deserves in the tour books and ranks among our favorites on the trip. Well worth the time.
Since we are heading to Crete and the islands tomorrow, this is probably a good time to weigh in with some thoughts on Greece's economic woes. John and I have been observing and postulating. Easy to do when you are not an economist nor an expert on the Greek economy. Never stopped us before, so here it goes.
The Greek economy is busted and it shows. Where Obama talks about "shovel ready" projects, the Greeks could characterize their country as "shovel lost" projects. Unfinished projects (where did the shovels go) are in abundance. Road projects started that now look abandoned, buildings partially finished and other signs that optimism and money has faded. With unemployment standing around 30%, the promising well trained youth are migrating elsewhere for work and consequently the country is growing older, costing more each year in per capita upkeep of pensions, healthcare etc. There are no visible signs of manufacturing development and very little signs of existing manufacturing. Most products seem to be made elsewhere. In essence, the economy doesn't have a lot fuel to run on nor a clear path or assets in reserve to stimulate it (oil exploration is underway, maybe they will find it). Entitlements in the form of generous early pensions have grown to disproportionate levels and labor groups and populist resistance to changes the government are proposing are strong and could perhaps morph to the ragged edge of violent resistance (strikes and protests are abundant). The innkeepers and other Greek citizens we talked with are worried about their own financial security (pension or business growth), saddened they are losing their youth to other countries and almost universally feel the government is bloated, corrupt and incapable of making the changes required. The problem for any unfortunate leader trying to work out of this train wreck is the question of what to do and if you do it, will you keep your head (literally and figuratively). John and I have a sense that about all the Greeks have left to work with is a sense history of providing the seeds of modern civilization and a fierce national pride. No solution is going to be pretty but calling for the Greek population to reach deep into their sense of pride, take the tough medicine necessary and don't look back nor for an immediate fix to a long term problem. Possible but improbable. Perhaps some of the same long term issues for the US in hyperdrive. Stay tuned, there are more countries than Greece that will have these problems. Other than that rosy picture, keep in mind Greece is a beautiful place and worth a few dollars to visit. Be a tourist and help an ailing economy.
Finishing our day with a leisurely afternoon around the pool at the Cosmopolitan and making plans for the remaining 24 hours before flying to Crete. The gods are apparently still in conference, probably meeting on the Greek economy. We can see a faint outline of Mt. Olympus but still no mountain.
Finding Mt. Olympus
Tuesday, September 27, 2011
Paralia Katerinis, Kentriki Makedonia, Greece
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2023-08-17
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