Finding the Fish in Havana

Thursday, December 03, 2015
Havana, Cuba
Finding the Fish in Havana

Loading early for our long bus ride to Havana, we are looking at a cloudy day, turning to rain as we close in on Havana. Our first bad weather day of the trip. There is no new scenery or stops to make, other than a bathroom stop. Yadira and Allan utilize the time to take questions and discuss various details about Cuban life, the political and economic system and other issues.

One of the issues discussed was education. After the revolution, with a large portion of the population were illiterate, particularly in rural areas, a major push was made to improve the literacy rate in Cuba. It now stands somewhere around 97%. School children all wear uniforms. There is a coding system with the color of scarfs or uniforms that indicates what grade they are currently in.

Education is free in Cuba with entrance exams given in high school and post high school to direct people, as they qualify, into higher education or trade skill programs. Approximately 10% of the Cuban budget is dedicated for education (compared to 2% of the USA). As a result, Cuba has a well trained workforce. Unfortunately, the economic structure doesn't always allow people to be employed in their highest capacity and when employed, the compensation is very low compared to the rest of the world. None the less, a big qualified workforce could make Cuba a real contender for attracting investment when it is allowed.

2 years of mandatory government service is required of both males and females unless they are physically unable to function in the service. Service for men is predominantly military. For women, the military is optional. Students completing their medical degree must provide 3 years of mandatory service.

Family doctors are assigned to neighborhoods. In cities this could be a 4 to 6 square block area. They usually know everyone in the neighborhood along with their problems. Many natural drugs and vitamins are used. Almost every drug, including aspirin require a prescription

Smoking is a big problem. Children 16 and under are prohibited from smoking. A box of cigarettes cost 7 pesos. (Approx. 30 cents)

We discussed the Cuban government structure. However, I am still trying to pin down little details like how the President is elected. The legislative body of Cuba is the National Assembly of Peoples Power. It has 612 members with 5 year terms. They meet twice a year and have a number of standing committees to do the detail work. The assembly members come from defined geographical areas, representing on average about 19,000 residents. The percent of the population that votes at the polls is very high at 98%. Apparently, if you have not voted by mid-day in your neighborhood polling place, someone is knocking on your door to persuade you to go to the polls.

As a note, commercial billboards are non-existent. There are a few billboards promoting the government or making a patriotic statement but not as many as I had imagined I would see. In addition, based on some other countries I had been in, I expected to see many images of Fidel or Raul Castro plastered over the roadsides. There were a few of Fidel. I saw none of Raul. Che Guevara gets the prize in Cuba for the most images. His image is seen often, portrayed as a hero to Cuba. The fact that he is dead and Fidel is not, probably plays in to this mix.

Our first stop in the Havana area was lunch with some local fisherman. Lunch was at Bodega Las Brisas, a local paladar near the fishing camp. Four fishermen split up among our tables to discuss their work. Mary and I sat with Carlos, a fisherman about 40 years old. He could speak some English and was a real American movie fan. He and Mary compared notes on who could remember the names of old movies. I think Carlos won.

Carlos and his fellow fishermen, base out of a nearby small harbor. The harbor, of which we will visit later, is military controlled and does not allow visitors unless special approval is granted. Fishing boats and harbors have a way of attracting Cubans who want to make the 90-mile journey to Key West or export/import drugs. The military tries to stop that behavior. The military inspects the fishing boats at least once per day. Carlos fishes from a very small 15-foot boat. He described his engine as a putt-putt because fast boats are not permitted. The fishing is done with "low lines" that can be stretched out for 6 miles at night and 3 miles in the day. Mahi mahi, tuna and marlin, among other fish are caught and the boats are not permitted to go out further than 6 miles. The catch has been dropping over the past few years and they are down about 60%. Carlos blamed it on the rising water temperature. Temperatures are probably rising but it could be that the 6-mile limit is just fished out.

In addition to Carlos, we met a very old fisherman that is now regarded as the great teacher for the younger guys. He showed us pictures of fishing with Hemmingway. He was very proud of that relationship.

We visited the fishing camp. The equipment is not modern. Hulks of boats in various states of disrepair or remodeling are everywhere. The fishing fleet was in the harbor because of high winds and many of the fishermen were there to talk with us and show what they were doing.

Our next stop was supposed to be Hemingway’s home, which is considered a national shrine in Cuba. The rain wasn’t cooperative and promises were made that we might get that on the schedule for tomorrow.
 
Our hotel for the next two nights will be the Hotel Nacional de Cuba. This is one of Havana’s treasures. Built in 1930 it has housed many illustrious artists, actors, athletes and writers. Many of their pictures adorn the walls. Built overlooking the Malecon, broad 8-mile stretch of roadway and seawall built along the Havana waterfront, it is built on the site of the Santa Clara Battery and includes two large coastal guns in the hotel’s beautiful gardens overlooking the water. Fidel and Che set up their headquarters there during the Cuban missile crisis.

The surprise for our little group was the Havana Film Festival just beginning in Havana.  The Hotel Nacional was ground central for a lot of the foreign tourists coming for the festival, the film stars, directors and producers. Our rooms were on the executive level of the hotel and with private dining and registration desk it put us at ground central for some of the film biggies. As I was attempting to sign up for our room safe, the person helping me and the remainder of the oxygen in the room seemed to turn all attention to the guy standing next to me. So I turned to him and said everyone seemed to know who he was but I didn’t. He said he didn’t know me either. So after I gave him my name he told me he was Ethan Hawke. For all of you movie aficionados, you might have recognized him immediately. I didn’t, but it was nice meeting him.

Dinner was on our own. The weather is still a little misty, so John, Kathy, Mary and I, once again, had Cuban sandwiches on the veranda. Afterwards, John, Kathy and I took a short walk on the Malecon. Waves crashing in on the seawall, a lot of young people walking or just hanging out and a beautiful view of the Hotel Nacional. Not a bad close for the day.

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