We decided to break up the journey to Laos by stopping off at a couple of places on the way. We knew that in the past it has been possible to get a boat at least part of the way up the river, so we were hoping to be able to do that in Kompong Cham.

Managed to pick up a bus going direct there from Siem Reap which nicely gave us a way of avoiding going all the way back down to Phnom Penh . US$5 each, a/c, Cambodian film (no karaoke at least), that was ok. Trip took 4 hours or so, with a stop in Spiderville on the way (can never remember the real name, but they catch and grill spiders there - no, we still didn't try them).

Arrived at Kompong Cham to the usual horde of tuk tuk & moto drivers looking to pick up a commission from a guesthouse. We'd scoped out the map and decided to just walk it - only 500m or so. Ended up being followed by a guy on a moto and another guy with a tuk tuk. Tried explaining that we were just going to walk and to be left in peace, not realising that the boats up the river had stopped, and with them the flood of tourists. i.e. we were the only game in town. Ended up sitting by the riverside trying to wait them out. The tuk tuk driver turned out to be really friendly and talkative, and was hoping that we'd pick him up to go see some of the sites around town. We weren't up for that though and just spent the rest of the afternoon wandering around town, wondering why we'd even stopped here.

Stayed at the Phom Prak Trochakchet Guesthouse, on the river front. Room at the front with fan went for US$5.

Picked up a bus to Kratie the next day - US$4.25 each.