Salaam Alaykum

Tuesday, November 13, 2012
Casablanca, Morocco
It's been almost a month in Casablanca and now I find myself thinking about returning to Canada and whatever activities await me there. I have been able to have a weekly skype with family - it's great!! - and have enjoyed weekly visits to the hammam (public bath) - I go to a women only bath at Solidarite Feminine where have volunteered in the past - There is no question that the season is changing but still enjoying 'fall' temperatures of 22c or so - sunny days and the roses on the terrace are blooming - they may be 'hamuck' (crazy) but they are beautiful!!

Attaching some general view photos but also several taken of people on the street as some of you have asked what I wear in Casablanca - you will see the dress is quite varied and in many cases the same as you would wear in Canada .
Both men and woman wear a casual 'jacket' type garment called a jelaba which came from the countryside to the city and is great when you have to go out unexpectedly - no one knows what you are wearing underneath (although sometimes in the summer it is possible to 'detect' almost nothing!!) and you look great - it can be made in any one of a variety of materials..one small difference between men/women is that the woman usually have a small decorative tassel on the tip of the hood.

There are so many stories to share with you and at the same time on the 'spot' I can think of nothing!!
- there was the taxi driver that when I gave him directions in my best arabic replied 'speak french'
- there was the bookstore clerk who when I gave her a title I was searching asked 'is it a book?'
- there was the taxi driver who although we had called and 'reserved' him refused to take us to our desired location ( who knows why) and the barrage of arabic that followed!!
- there were the fourilles for breakfast - mmm they are so good!
- there were fresh bbq sardines every Sunday for lunch
- there were fresh avacadoes for 2cad a kg; clementines (the few that weren't sent around the world) grapes, pomegranates and the gift of lamb from the big celebration of Eid..
- there were Friday mornings at the hammam
and sitting on the terrace enjoying the sun; 'soft' air and the southern Alberta blue sky of Morocco!

I am sorry that I didn't get to visit Marrakech and especially missed Oulidia who knows maybe
next time .
 I have read 'the Caliph's House' a book suggested by a friend some time ago but which I just picked up - - a caliph is described as: a successor of the Prophet Mohammed also refers to a governor or man with considerable political power-- it's the story of buying a derelict mansion located in a bidonville (french for 'slum) near the ocean in Casablanca and bringing it back to 'life' the frustration of Moroccan workman/bureaucracy/traditions - still very much alive as I watch
Mohamed deal with 'backshish' and other foibles of the system -- the author's delight in finding architectural treasures for their house that would be, I think, almost impossible anywhere else.

Also read 'Morocco since 1830' and was fascinated to finally understand how the french arrived/(then left) declaringMorocco a 'protectorate' - and how did the King managed to leave/return with his 'life' -- ah politics!

While it would be easy to look around and say that 'nothing has changed' since the French left
and many of their unique architectural 'gifts' are being left to, sadly, crumble -- when I asked about the 1st (just before sunrise) call to prayer and that it seemed 'different' I was told yes, there had
been discussions and it was agreed that this adhan would be shortened - thereby calling just those that really want to be called - amazing!!  
Also there is Casatram - a tramway preparing to open Jan 1/2013 and at 7dirhams (1cad=8 dirhams) it will be free the first day -- popular reference says that the 'tram goes from where no one lives to where no one works' - this could be said in many cities of the world maybe even Ottawa!!

Wednesday I am off to Ottawa via Paris and look forward to seeing friends/family and grandchildren!!
Thanks for being with me on this wander!!



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