A lot to do today with so little time, up and at em early so naturally get caught in peak hour traffic in taxi from hotel to Milan Central Station, the rules are there aren't any. Anyway get dropped off at station and let me tell you this is no ordinary place where trains hang out. It is the most complex train station that I have ever been to all housed in the extraordinary building complex - a large town and all at peak hour in the morning.

Anyway drop off our bags for morning storage and purchase tickets to Levanto which is at the north end of the Cinque Terra . We then set out to find the metro rail network with the aim of visiting the Duomo in the central piazza, this sucker is the 4th largest in Europe with the rooftop areas being able to be accessed. Now not that I needed brownie points but yet another ABC visited, perhaps if I had have known what was in store later in the afternoon then another nod in the right direction whilst doing the rounds could have been the difference between surviving or not but what's a few near death experiences between friends?

Being able to access the rooftop areas is a different experience, the amount of work in this duomo one can see why it took 600 years to knock it up. Once around the block, inside for another look see, they sure knew how to create a wow factor back when. Seats 10,000 people, pity now never for a day of worship. I suggest that this caper be handed over to someone like Michael Guidenski to add a modern slant and promote religion. An interesting note is that they have security guards at the entrance who were turning mainly younger females away because they had too much flesh showing - strange really but who am I to say . The piazza is full with much activity from touts trying to fleece you and religious freaks trying to covert you. We do not want to leave ourselves short of time at the station as yet to find the actual regional station and right line excreta plus no tucker for day as yet so make tracks for the station.

With our finely tuned location skills on the right train and off to the land of 5 terra. Arrive mid arvo at town number 5 at the north end called Monterosso al Mare. Rock up to purchase our park pass and are told what the promo people do not tell - only one walking track is open with the others closed and have been for a long time. There does not seem to be any urgency to open any of the closed (and most walkable) paths with the big winners the train and ferry operators. Guess what, the only one open is the walking path between Monterosso and Vernazza, also just happens to be the more "challenging" of them all.

I am actually doing this blog from heaven (do not mention stairs or steps) as I have had a heart attack in my stupidity as we walked (John) and crawled (me) for the 3 hours it took . There must have been hundreds and hundreds and hundreds of steps up, most of which were twice the height of a normal step. Also we did it CARRYING OUR PACKS on the warmest day that we have had thus far. Bloody funny now but not at the time. 3 hours of torture, my pack started with about 13 kgs and ended with about 11 kgs and let me tell you one decides what one needs to carry and what is excess baggage half way up!! Firstly carrying spare shoes - of no use so out they go, a little further along no further use for trackie pants and then so bloody hot, stupidity to carry two jumpers so bye bye to one of them! A broader view of sharing needs to be taken, my loss will be a gain for another - win / win. Yes, one has to do what one had to do to live to tell the tale. There will be no need to stretch this story because the actual trek is a book in its self.

Donna and Peter you should consider yourselves extremely fortunate people as my choices during the trek shows my absolute unrelenting character . All revealed in the fullness of time.

John held up pretty well, all the way saying that this is the last time he would listen to my bright ideas. Funny, he carried 15 kgs all the way, I said to him that he needed to rationalise during the trek but no. I said I would love to go through his pack as no man needs a full pack, a smaller back pack and a day pack. He even carried over a 1.5 kg Lonely Planet guide book!!

I now know that I will not die of a heart attack because today was right there as the best chance but my extreme resilience pulled me through. M-L, think of our trek over to Horseshoe Bay on Maggie Island and double it and then add a 12kg back pack.

Anyway the views were actually to die for. We gave a rousing round of applause to a guy walking in thongs and carrying his girlfriends large handbag. I look forward in issuing the challenge to the new tour party arrivals .

Arrived into Vernazza a little latter than most taking some amazing photos on the decent into the village. The accommodation system is that you go and knock on any door that looks like it rents rooms or ask someone who will then ask someone else who will then send you to someplace that you have no hope of finding. Why knock this type of booking system that had worked so well (for the locals) for so long. How come - cash. No wonder the tax man thinks these areas are so poor, they report and pay no tax!

Just when one thinks there are no more steps we have scored the top floor in a room the closest to the train station - like arm out the window and one can almost touch the train at the station. Shared bathroom down he hallway as well. My clothes walk off to the shower all by themselves, not sure if they will ever smell ok again.

That first ale with focaccia and pesto (both native to this region) really hit the spot. This is a place that could well be lost in time (apart from the touristy aspects) somewhere to sit and try to take in the real meaning of being - just majestic. Carafe of the local vino which was actually good along with a big feed of local caught seafood in tomato risotto - really good home style food in a magic setting. In shorts, ss shirt and thongs for first time in the evening of the trip so far. Then bed to dream more adventures to beat today's activities. Ciao Ciao.