Known as 'the white city' for its distinctive volcanic stonework, colonial Arequipa sits in the shadows of the perfect cone-shaped volcano of El Misti (5822m), Chachani (6075m) and Pichu Pichu (5571m). It's Peru's second largest city.

Early rise (4am!) the next morning to set out on our trek to Colca Canyon, one of the world's deepest canyons at 3191m . The route from Arequipa passes over bleak altiplano before dropping spectacularly into Chivay, our breakfast stop. Stopped off to spot Andean condors gliding on the early morning thermals at the appropriately named Cruz del Condor before arriving on the outskirts of Cabanaconde to begin our trek. Our aim was Sangalle (The Oasis) at the bottom (a mere speck from the top) where we were to find natural pools for swimming and primitive bungalow accommodation. It was a reasonably calm descent despite the occasional sprint to avoid falling rocks.

What goes down must come up? True. The climb out of the canyon the next morning was tiring work, although fortunately on the right side of the canyon to the rising morning sun, and with the promise of a dip in some thermal baths it was achieved. The return journey to Arequipa across the altiplano was once again spectacular with the looming Misti ever-present, passing several picturesque villages and some of the most extensive pre-Inca terracing in Peru.

Onward day bus journey to Puno, 5 hours.