Valdivia is the seat of German culture in Chile and the most important university town in the south of the country. This has led to the winning formula of atmospheric bars and great beer. The weather continued to be a bit miserable so a boat cruise to visit nearby forts was unappealing. Instead we located 'La Ultima Frontera', a bohemian cafe-bar in a restored mansion, with a substantial artisanal draft-beer list. During the afternoon here, we acquainted Alexis, a chef at a nearby pizzeria, and Marco, a surveyor on business from Santiago, who later decided to accompany us to the Cerveceria Kunstmann. This was after Alexis' last-minute shift swap at the pizzeria! Not sure how much surveying Marco managed the next day either...

Onward bus to Castro, Chiloe . 7 hours.