We came to Otavalo for one main reason - to get involved in the town's giant Saturday market, where traditionally dressed indigenous people sell handicrafts and alpaca numbers to the hordes of gringos who pour in to find a bargain. There was an astounding array of goods on offer at the Plaza de Ponchos and the market swelled endlessly into the adjacent roads.

The animal market offered us an interesting break from the hustle of the crafts market . Beneath the volcanic backdrop of Cotacachi and Imbabura, indigenous men and women milled around with pigs, cows, goats, chickens, ducks, guinea pigs, cats and dogs, to inspect, haggle and chat in the crisp morning air. We found the experience all a bit overwhelming.

We also got out to Cotacachi, a village north of Quito famous for its leather-work, and treated ourselves to new belts. A short hike to a pretty waterfall near the indigenous village of Peguche provided welcome relief from the hectic market stalls.

Onward bus to Mindo, via Quito, 4 hours.