To Friendship and Delight

Monday, August 10, 2015
Kyōto-shi, Kyōto-fu, Japan
How do you explain Kyoto? I'm not sure you can, which is possibly why it's taken me awhile to get this next chapter out of my head and onto "paper." We've also been on the move the last few days which has made writing more difficult. Kyoto is quietly beautiful. Compared to the sprawling city of Tokyo, Kyoto is a haven of tranquility where old world charm abounds.

Once again, it was nice to ride Tyler's coat tails to the brand spanking new Suiran Resort in Arashiyama . Even better, this hotel is part of The Luxury Collection portfolio, of which The Phoenician is also included. It was fascinating to be so far away from home and yet find familiarity. Knowing the policies and guidelines that brand enforces worldwide, it was interesting to see how other properties abide. The resort literally sits on a world heritage site. Upon arriving, Tyler and I looked at each other with glee. It is stunningly beautiful. That doesn't even really begin to cover it. Sitting on the banks of the Katsura River, the hotel is cocooned by a dense forest, and with it a cacophony of insect and animal noises. I did not expect Japan to be so tropical. It makes sense I guess after experiencing the weather, but it still surprises me to walk out into the jungle. Our room includes our very own Onsen, a small natural spring spa, and is decorated in the style of the traditional Japanese Ryokan complete with tatami bamboo floors and sliding rice paper doors. Once again, I'm in heaven. I can't believe how lucky I am to be able to experience these things, and am very grateful for it all .

Something Kyoto is known for is the amount of temples and shrines that dot the landscape like Starbucks in the US. Every corner has some type of torii, sacred garden, dojo or small shrine. It makes the skyline quite interesting and I cannot get over how gloriously different the scenery is. I realized it's probably the first time in my travels that the horizon doesn't include a church spire or bell tower. Like the rest of the culture, it's refreshing. My mind opens and activates a little more each day. In the words of a fellow traveler, I find myself being astonished by life just a little every day. This is why I travel. Of course it's not all fabulous all of the time - it's so, so, SO hot, it's hard to find things for me to eat on a whim and Tyler and I are both a bit tired of the constant go go go that is discovering a new place. Regardless, it's worth the small amount of discomfort to be able to experience somewhere new and to once again see that though different, in some ways we are all the same .

The only shrine we purposefully visited was Fushimi Inari, which honors the patron of business and the god of rice. Fushimi is an iconic image of Japan with thousands of vermillion toriis spanning 4 kilometers creating one solid tunnel of orange up the mountain. Each gate was donated by a Japanese business to find favor with the gods. What a thing to behold! Truly something I will never forget. Apart from my meltdown night in Tokyo, this was by far the hottest we've been during the day. Sodden. The only operative word. Just totally sodden. It's gross. I don't think I would ever adjust. It's so humid here that there is a large market for what Tyler and I have dubbed "sweat rags." The Japanese have created an industry in absorbent cloths with the sole purpose of mopping the rivulets of sweat that pour down one's face, neck, chest etc... I bought one. It has penguins on it. A prized souvenir, to be sure.

Though it's tough to find gluten free snacks or meals, we did discover the delightful and ice cold concoction of Japanese shave ice . The sugary cold treat is a welcome respite during the oppressive days and we've been consuming at least one each afternoon. Other tasty food items to note - Japanese apple juice (the perfect blend of sweet and tart), chocolate macadamia nut bon bons, matcha tea, Kirin hard apple cider, Wagu beef and pickled things (and I mean ALL the things). The people here continue to be so understanding and helpful when it comes to my eating issues, but it is quite apparent that someone needs to educate Japan on Celiac and the abundant business opportunities that await a savvy entrepreneur.

For the big day (Tyler's 30th birthday) we went to Itoh Dining in downtown Kyoto, an authentic hibachi restaurant. The service was sadly not as great as it could have been, with this being the worst understanding and assistance with my gluten free needs... but the food was out of this world amazing. One word - Wagu. It's as if tiny fireworks of fat explode in your mouth with every bite. Tyler and I shared a bottle of Malbec and toasted being friends for so many years (28 to be exact) and to the next 30 years ahead. I couldn't ask for a better travel buddy or friend and I am so happy we got to experience Japan together.

The next day we once again made it back to Old Town Kyoto, where we would spend one night in an actual Ryokan in the Kinoe district. Our concierge had also set up a traditional tea ceremony at Camellia which was absolutely delightful. It's astonishing how deliberate the culture here is about everything. To watch our hostess prepare traditional Matcha was mesmerizing. The deliberateness is connected to zen - to relax one's mind. It totally worked. Watching the last drop of hot water slowly release from the bamboo ladle into the bowl was matcha meditation. Our hostess informed us that the true tea masters study the art for ten years before they truly know everything about the ceremony. We then got to whisk our own tea into a froth and then enjoy. Our Ryokan was old but clean, and a great experience. We slept on the floor on mats and left our shoes in the shoe room at the front door. An interesting adventure for sure, and while fun, made us appreciate the luxurious hotels we have had the pleasure of enjoying this trip.

Today we took it easy and shopped around downtown Kyoto taking the opportunity to unwind and relax. Tyler and I both purchased some great items to bring home. Tomorrow morning we're hiking to the bamboo forest and then it's back to Tokyo for the rest of the week, but for now we're tucked back into our beds at Suiran.

Photos & Videos

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Comments

Aunt Chris
2015-08-11

And I thought WE were experiencing a heat wave! Buy a fan!!

2025-05-22

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