Prem and Moti picked us up early for our 110 km drive south from Manali to Mandi. On the outskirts of Manali we passed rows of box shaped apartments seemingly placed on top of each other and nestled against the foothills of the surrounding high ranges. We were intrigued. They looked just like something out of a Monopoly game.

We drove along a good sealed road following the fast flowing Beas River through the Kullu Valley toward Mandi. Interestingly, the Beas was once a formidable barrier to the famous conqueror Tamerlame and his army when he strode into and across the Indian sub-continent.

The trip to Mandi was very attractive. Luxuriant moist coniferous forest clad the steep surrounding mountains, interspersed with tiny terraced farmlets. We were fascinated to see a plethora of ferns and palm trees clinging to the edges of the river. It seemed strange to see "rainforests" at such a high altitude. White water rafting is very popular in this area and is well supported by numerous raft hire shops. Well fed sacred cattle wandered across the roads defying any car to move them out of the way. Ubiquitous mangey looking dogs roamed around the local villages.

The Kullu Valley is quite infamous for its so called "Deadly Holidays". Since the mid 1990's over two dozen foreign tourists have "disappeared". While some have been involved with the local drug traders, other have become lost or fatally injured while trekking alone through the confusing valleys and rugged mountain terrain. Looking up at the densely vegetated and steep mountains from our road following the Beas River, it was easy to see how you could get hopelessly lost - well, I certainly could.

We passed through Kullu Town, the administrative capital of the Kullu Valley before we reached the Basesara Mahadev Temple. The largest stone temple in the Kullu Valley (yes, again a reference the 'largest' somewhere), the Hindu temple which was built in 8th Century AD is dedicated to the god Shiva. Built in the prettiest setting, the temple boasts some rather charming symmetrical features and intricate carved stone. One carving was of the famous Ganesha or Elephant God, a figure well known by his elephant head and human body. We were to "meet" the popular Ganesha many times in our coming travels further south.

A pair of local worshippers in the presence of a religious leader was giving offerings when we arrived. A highly ritualistic and serious performance involved the pair performing extensive prayers, lighting incense and giving donations in rupees to the temple - and more probably the religious leader.

The descending drive from the temple to Mandi was through the beautiful, enormously steep V shaped Kullu Valley, densely clad with thickets of brilliant green vegetation.

A policeman appeared from nowhere, beckoning Prem to pull his car over to the side of the road. As Prem was a very steady and competent driver, we were very surprised that after a long discussion with the police office, he returned dejectedly to our car saying that he had been fined the equivalent of US $10 for speeding. Apparently, the speed limit along this section of the road had been reduced to 60 km per hour but there was no signage to say so. This was the first of many instances we witnessed in India of what could only be described as straight out corruption by local officials.

We knew that Mandi Town was just a stopping off place between Manali and our coming destination of Shimla. And we were also well aware that our accommodation at the Visco Resort Regent Palm Hotel was going to be basic, rated at just two star. We checked in as soon as we arrived in Mandi and to our surprise, the hotel was much better than we had anticipated. It was best however not to look at the empty algal stained swimming pool right on the main road or the precariously strung electrical cables, so thick that they almost blocked our views of Mandi Town.... We were just happy that it was well above our expectations - which were pretty low I must say.

Rewalsar Lake was our destination for our afternoon in the Mandi district. Located 22.5 km from Mandi, the square shaped lake is a secular sacred spot for Buddhists, Hindus and Sikhs. It was from here that the legendary Indian teacher and Tantric Padmasambhava (meaning "Lotus Born") left for Tibet. Otherwise known as "Guru Rimpoche, the Precious Master" it was under Padmasambhava's influence that Mayayana Buddhism spread over and into Tibet. Rewalsar Lake was also home to the sage Rishi Lomas who was forced to do penance here in devotion to Lord Shiva, and the Sikh Guru Gobind Singh (1666 - 1708).


We lunched at a rather lovely restaurant perched high on a ridge while Moti and Prem dined on street food at the local bazaar. This situation suited everyone for our trip from Manali to Chandigarh. We were happy to be alone with the fun of ordering our own food and meeting local people. We were sure it was just as suitable for Moti and Prem to be able to buy cheaper food and to have time on their own, speaking their own language.

Our restaurant appeared to be full of local tourists. At a table next to us a friendly young Indian couple, who were obviously spending an enjoyable weekend at Lake Rawalsar, were curious to know where we were from. Their English was excellent and had a great conversation with them about life in modern India. At another table we were amused to see a large family - both in bulk and numbers - dining on a huge selection of local dishes. The parents and the children were grossly overweight, ate like there was no tomorrow and in between mouthfuls, roaring into their mobile phones or yelling at each other. The noise level was deafening. It was our introduction to the "growing" brass Indian Middle Class family.

Despite the relatively high altitude, the day was hot and humid and we were surrounded by dense lush forest. I was certain that the gigantic mosquito that bit me coming out of the restaurant was a Malaria carrying Anopheles species. Moti told me he also was bitten at the bazaar. "What altitude are we at?" I asked "About 1,800 m" he replied. Bugger, I thought, Anopheles species do not inhabit areas above 2,000 m. We were both convinced we had contracted Malaria.

Close up, Rawalsar Lake although situated in the prettiest green valley, was no more than a disappointing bright green stagnating pond. The surrounding temples and shrines around the lake were oddly in stark contrast with each other. On the hillside adjacent to the lake stood a grossly over sized,12 m Padmasambhava statue guilded in hideous, gaudy tones of purple and gold. On the other side of the lake, was the new and beautifully ornate Tibetan Zangdopelri Monastery. A small number of attractive Hindu temples also adorned the outskirts of the lake.

Ghats on the north-western side of Rawalsar were home to shoals of frenzied fish who literally jumped out of the water to be fed on puffed rice by hordes of pilgrims. Resembling a curious cross between a cat fish and a carp, these aquatic monsters savagely wrestled and shoved to be the first to grab the food we offered.

From Lake Rewalsar we climbed steeply up a ridge to the Padmasambhava Cave. Terraced farms resembling overlapping slices of bread, dotted with pretty toy farm houses clung tenaciously to the mountainous green countryside.

The road was steep and treacherous, with barely room for two vehicles. A large old bus veered toward us, almost wiping out the side of our car. How it missed us, we will never know. Even when it screeched to a stop, there was just centimeters between us and the cumbersome bus. The incident must have given Prem a dreadful fright as he was speechless for some time after - and so were we.

High on the ridge was the cave where Padmasambhava allegedly meditated. According to tradition, Padmasambhava was incarnated as an eight year old child appearing in a lotus blossom in a lake that is now identified with the Swat Valley of Pakistan. In Rewalsar, he secretly taught Tantric* to Princess Mandarava, the local king's daughter. The king on finding out tried to burn him but Padmasambhava could not be killed. Instead, as legend says, he just sat and meditated. Astonished by this miracle, the king offered Padmasambhava both his kingdom and Mandarava. The couple later left for Maratika Cave in Nepal where they had a vision of the Buddha Amitayus and achieved a rare type of spiritual realisation known today as "Terma".

And indeed the Padmasambhava cave was both serene and spiritual. Perhaps for us the spirituality was enhanced by a very friendly Taiwanese nun who was chanting softly to herself while we explored the cave. Gold statues adorned the interior "rooms", together with monetary and burning yak butter offerings. Outside the cave beyond the ubiquitous Buddhist prayer flags were stupendous views of the adjacent forested valley and lake.

The flatter countryside on our return to Mandi was extensively farmed with healthy looking maize and sorghum crops. Isolated double storey farm houses painted in fantastically bright colours of hot pink, lime green and mauve stood comically amongst the crops.

Tired from our travels, we pleaded mercy with Moti not to visit any more monasteries. As usual, it was no trouble for the easy going Moti and Prem. I think they may have been secretly delighted too...

Alan was suffering from an unusual attack of vertigo and when we returned to our Mandi hotel decided to rest on our bed while I tried to watch the local television news. A dreadful commotion began outside our room with children shrieking and screaming and banging on our door. It was so loud that we could not even talk, let alone watch the television. After some ten minutes I ventured out to find hordes of ill behaved young children racing up and down the hotel corridors. What was even more surprising is that they were accompanied by adults who talked loudly amongst themselves, seemingly oblivious of the noise they and the children were making.

I am not at all tolerant of badly behaved kids but I did manage to be polite in asking them to be quieter (by the way, they spoke perfect English). Again, the parents took no notice and the minute I closed the door the screaming, thumping and slamming of doors started up again. I finally went ballistic but by this time the parents were yelling so loudly at each other they didn't even notice me! The process repeated itself until an outraged Alan finally leaped down the stairway to a very nervous manager who hastily told Alan "One minute sir....". The noise stopped abruptly. Either he murdered the lot or they took off on a bus. I tend to think it was the former.

Late in the afternoon Alan and I wandered the streets of down town Mandi. Formerly a trading stop on the salt route to Tibet, Mandi is the gateway to the Kullu Valley and the junction of the main roads to Kullu, Chandigarh and Pathankot. The population of around 30,000 comprises Sikh, Buddhist and Hindu communities with a large scattering of Shaivite** temples.

Frenetic but friendly, Mandi town was home to local people with not a tourist to be seen. Local shops sold spices, groceries and hardware. Alan tried to buy some tonic water for his gin but again it was in vain. I was more successful, buying several sealed packets of local curry spices that the friendly shop owner told me was "Veeeery goooood". We also bought some nougat wrapped curiously in red foil paper labelled with "I Believe in Santa"....

It was good fun to explore the shops and the sunken shopping complex of Indira Market which was arranged around a central attractive garden adjacent to the Raj Mahal Palace . We throughly enjoyed our surprisingly pleasant visit to colourful Mandi.

We dined in the hotel restaurant. It was surprisingly lovely room with friendly and helpful staff - and the food was very good. To our horror however, we were again confronted with the "Ugly Nouveau Indian Middle Class". A large family headed by a gigantic Sikh man roaring at mega decibels into his mobile phone sat opposite to us. We were fascinated that he had the phone clamped to his head for the duration of the evening and we guessed he had to yell because of the hysterically loud shrieks and screams of his children. One of the children, an obese young girl dressed in an absurd pink fairy dress rudely made demands for more food to the restaurant staff. The other children ran riot amongst the restaurant tables, knocking over chairs screaming at the top of their voices. Again, the women seemed totally oblivious of the racket. This outrageous performance was obviously normal behaviour for these obnoxious kids.

Nervous waiters tried to coax the children to be quiet by offering them sweets. That subdued them for less than a minute before the commotion began again. We couldn't even hear ourselves speak and decided to have an early night - hopefully in peace.

The next morning at an early breakfast, staff were still cleaning up the mess of food left on the floor and tables by the Ugly Family.


*Contemporary Indian philosopher, Tantric author and founder of the Ananda Marga School of Tantric yoga Prabhat Ranjan Sarkar describes the Tantric cult:

"A person who, irrespective of caste, creed or religion, aspires for spiritual expansion or does something concrete, is a Tantric. Tantra in itself is neither a religion nor an 'ism'. Tantra
is a fundamental spiritual science....."

** Shaism is one of the four most widely followed sects of Hinduism,which reveres the god Shiva as the Supreme Being. Followers of Shaivam, called "Shaivas" believe that Shiva is All and in all, the creator, preserver, destroyer, revealer and concealer of all that is.


















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