Anzac Day at Villers- Bretonneux in France. And a centenary ceremony at that. What bucket list couldn’t have this on it ? Almost as good as beating the Poms in cricket, heh ? Yes, the battle of Villers-Bretonneux, was actually fought on Avril (french for April) 25th 1918.
But “Somme” of you may get a little confused about “Somme” of what I am going to mention. Well let me tell you “Somme-thing” about Villers-Bretonneux and the surrounding areas. It will be short, a “Somme-ation”, of a long story. I am sure that you will pick up on this information as we “Somme-arise”.
Yes, we are now in the “La Somme”, the Western Front, where many large and prolonged embattlements occurred during WWI. The Amiens / Villers-Bretonneux being a noted feature of these. The Australian National Monument at Villers-Bretonneux (“VB”), being a commenorative structure to the many Australians killed in this area. It was to be here that some 8000 people would gather to celebrate not only Anzac Day, but the Villers-Bretonneux Centenary.
Fred and I had planned this to fit into our trip.
In fact, it was one of our flags upon which we built the trip. Not known to us, was that it was a “ticket only” gig. We accidentally found out by reading this in the papers few months prior to leaving Sydney. We quickly made application to the Australian Government and were granted tickets. How could they not ? What a coup for the Australian Government, “Parno and Fred” mixing it with the “rank and file”, in the trenches. Fred is still wondering how much longer that they would have waited prior to dropping us some form of direct hint to attend.
Still, like our visit to London to give an appraisal about “that pending wedding”, we didn’t any special red carpet treatment. We were happy to sit with the “plebs” and (hopefully), not be identified. Subsequent to being accepted, it was obvious that the Department of Veteran Affairs we so excited in our presence, that they kept on sending us “updates” on how the organisation was going. Fred thought that this was pretty good, but she conceded, that this was really a series of “we hope you can come”, emails.
This was somewhat proven, when our individualised (keep-sake) tickets arrived two days prior to departure. Still, we were happy to be of assistance to the Australian people: as well as those International folk who would be attending.
Perhaps we should now go back to the actual “day’s” events and processes. Our plans were to leave Amiens by car and follow the instructions from Veterans’ Affairs and park it at a place about 12 kilometres out of Amiens, Glisy. This was recommended to be early. So wanting to be part of the crowd, this is what we did. Along with 3 other Australians we had met in our hotel, our full car made it to this point. From here, after going through a series of passport and security checks, we were then loaded onto a bus out to the ceremonial site. Very well organised with both of us were relieved that people were more interested in getting onto the bus than seeking selfies with you know who. Onto the Memorial site and into our seats. Just three rows back in the general seating section. Close enough, but far enough away from the hustle and bustle that the official party etc would have to endure.
Still, I’m sure that the Australian Security personnel were “spotting” us and knew exactly where we were should either of us be needed. Whilst we hadn’t officially informed the organisers of our somewhat willingness to jump in, if needed, we had discussed that we were sure that this was indeed the case. Fred and I had discussed a plethora of interferences that could occur: even down to the point of what if Malcolm Turnbull doesn’t turn up should he lose his 31st Opinion Poll?”.
Likely, indeed very likely. Fred raised a good point, “what if the Prime Minister (Malcolm), actually comes up and wants a selfie with either of us, even worse still, with one of us ?”. “Should we say yes, go get security to move him back to his seat?” These sorts of dilemmas, should not have to be dealt with on such occasions !!
The weather was kind to us up to this point. Fred and I placed a couple of crosses on Australian “unknown soldier” grave sites. We were also in possession of a small complimentary bag in which was a poncho and quite a well produced booklet: a keepsake. I thought, should I have a pen on me just in case !! You know, some may want the odd autograph. For example, if I were to bump into Prince Charles and say to him, “HRH, how about an autograph”, I’d suspect that he would say, “Yes”, I would then say to him, “who should I make this out to ?”, I would then ask. Obviously, a pen would come in handy on such occasions !!
The ceremony had 2 parts: a reflection ceremony from 2am to 4:30am was held.
This was a mixture of interviews with historical experts on the Villers-Bretonneux battlements, archival film and musical items from the assembled Army Band and a civil choir. We had arrived at about 24:00 hours, some 5.5 hours prior to the dawn ceremony starting. Our time did go quickly: with lots of Australians around, the typical BBQ type talk occurred. People were up and walking around. I was able to maintain both our identities: being incognito was the plan. It was cold, but not to the unbearable level. Wind was minimal and so there appeared to be little wind chill factor. The ceremony was essentially run and organised by Australian TV and so was minute perfect. The official party arrived and positioned themselves nearby to where Fred and I had seated. Close enough to slip in during a commercial break if needed, was my initial thought. As it turned out, there was no need.
Our souvenir programme detailed the order of ceremony and that went well. The major dignitaries present were HRH Prince Charles, the Australian Prime Minister (Malcom Turnbull) and the French Prime Minister. Each spoke of the heroism and involvement of troops: all citing specific examples. Touched to the speech writers: as all just stood and delivered off paper.
I wanted to know why the French President Ms Macron, was in the USA visiting the very erratic President, Donald Trump and not in Villers-Bretonneux. Poor form I would say.
As the ceremony was concluding, it started to rain.
It was about 50% light at this stage, this spoiling what had been a well run, efficient and meaningful ceremony. The audience participated when required and was respectful accordingly. The rain did not last too long: our ponchos doing well and keeping us generally dry. Spontaneously applause rang out when the ceremony was officially closed.
In the interim while wreath laying was underway, I was able to go down and be near Prince Charles and our PM. Not enough time for them to have a selfie, but I managed to teakettle a photo of each of them and probably will forward an autographed version off to them soon. I guess there’s no real hurry, but these little things all add up and so, I will send these off ASAP just so they have some warm and fuzzy feelings about being at the ceremony. These are the sorts of things both Fred and I, “just do” !!
Getting out of the ceremonial grounds and then onto a bus to take us back to our car in Glisy, took 2 hours. Fred and I stood from an elevated position to witness the paucity of effort to load buses and get away.
Essentially, school teachers experienced in loading kids onto buses would have cleared this mob very easily as there were heaps of buses available. It got very frustrating. I had places to go and people to see.
When back at our car, then a short drive to our hotel. It was now mid morning and we were both tired. Representing your nation is a rather energy sapping experience. Later we walked around Amiens, visiting the local Notre Dame and onto the train station, as we had aspirations of spending the next day in Paris. One issue we had to address was that the French rail workers have had 3 months of working bans on trains and so, service is not guaranteed. More on this (proposed adventure) in the next chapter.
Across the road, Fred has sniffed out a patisserie and so after a hot chocolate and a macron, she had recharged her batteries sufficiently for the 15 minute walk back home. We had promised ourselves a French dinner this evening. We had “eyed” a “authentic traditionale” French cuisine restaurant earlier and so were intending to head for this.
Another exquisite meal with an equally pleasant Bordeaux Merlot (2015). This restaurant was owned and run by a French couple. A common language point again being an issue, but we managed to struggle through the wine selection and the menu very well. Each “side” being pleasant and patient. People can be so nice when they want to: it was a pleasant time with this French couple.
“Noublions Jamais L’Australie” (Never forget Australia), as they say locally. A topic for a subsequent chapter.
Merci bouquet, sil vous plait.
Hillerine
2018-04-25
What a bucket list moment you two are having Great to be able to travel along with you guys from my lounge chair It feels so real watching it on tv and reading your blogs Keep enjoying the rest of your trip
Northern
2018-04-25
Wow so moving great video Parno watched A B C coverage live on TV it was great . Glad you are having such an awesome time . Keep sending your photos and The Blog love following your trip .
Kathii Langadinos
2018-04-26
Your photos evoke memories of our trip to the Western Front; what constantly amazes me is what those young lads of ours endured on the battlefield. It is a fitting tribute that we honour their memory and legacy with these ceremonial services and you are both so lucky to be there on such an important historic occasion. No wonder the French say "Do not forget Australia". So be it.