Not quite done with the Galapagos, Paul spent a couple of days diving with an outfit that brought him to three different islands that he had yet to see. The diving was great but he says he didn’t see anything that we didn’t see snorkelling, except for a hammerhead shark that he saw on both days!! 

I was delighted he had such a good time and over the moon that he saw a hammerhead though secretly, I was a wee bit sad I didn’t get to see one myself.  With that said, I’m glad he went without me. The dives were technical and in current, which doesn’t turn me on at all. Instead, I opted to bum around town, check out a few sites and pop into a few coffee shops and catch up on travel writing. 

When Paul had his full of diving we called it quits on Santa Cruz and headed to the lesser populated, sleepy fishing island of San Cristabol. 

Getting there was an experience all of its own. About 30 passengers piled into a 40 foot boat; the interior completely ripped out, we sat on padded wooden benches on the periphery of the interior. For 2 1/4 hours we banged across the 80 km passage from Puerto Ayora to San Cristabol. Paul sat in the bow and agreed it was wicked rough and I sat in the stern and agreed that though less rough, it was wicked wet! Such is the experience of the islands. We spilled out of the boat, passed growling sea lions dotting the shoreline and made our way to our hostel. 

Turns out our hostel was under renovations and though lovely, we were forced out of bed at 7:50 every morning as someone on the other side of our wall seemed to want to get in by way of circular saw! 

We spent most of our time walking the streets, hiking the trails and enjoying sea lions on the beach. To enjoy the sea lions, the town built a lovely walkway across the entire length of the community where the beach meets the street. They have also covered the fence with chicken wire to keep the sea lions from coming onto the street and to keep people off the beach.

Sea lions dot the beach throughout the day but as the sun sets, hundreds of them come ashore to spend the night. It is the most curious thing to see. Each female grunting to a find her sleeping pup, males barking as they try to dominate the beach, pups crying to be fed, and everyone growling when walked on by a renegade sea lion too lazy to find a less direct path. 

In each circumstance there is a distinctive call with each individual having their own variation. The end product is a symphony of grunting and growling that lasts until they shuffle back into the sea when the sun rises the next morning. We were three days in San Cristobal and it simply never got old!

On the outskirts of town is a weathered but interesting interpretation center that delivers insights about the history of the Galapagos Islands. The focus of the displays is conservation, climate, and geology though they also offer some interesting tales of Santa Cruz’s past as well.

Most interestingly, in 1869 the colony of El Progresso was established on San Cristobal Island by Manuel Cobos. Cobos wanted to create a community structured around social equality. It was a utopian village whose citizens were mostly comprised of convicts discharged from prison to live and work here. Cobos even had his own currency! Unfortunately, his society didn't quite become what he had intended, ending with a revolt by the townspeople and Cobos being murdered. Thankfully for us, the town still exists and tourists are encourage to visit this once utopian society! 

The Centro de Interpretacion only takes about an hour and at the end, the exit takes you along several miles of hiking trails. About 2 miles in one direction is a beautiful lookout point, with a panoramic view of Shipwreck Bay boasting spectacular views of the ocean. Tourists often come here to snorkel in the cove below. The Cove is secluded and waters are a brilliant turquoise making the perfect setting for an afternoon snorkel!

Later on the same afternoon we visited La Loberia where we walked along white sandy beaches where people tucked away under mangroves to snuggle. Paul heard some movement in the bushes and promptly drew my attention to the area. He presumed it was sea lions making sounds and movements but much to our embarrassment it was two lovebirds ... getting acquainted with one another!

Along the lava stone breakwater we stepped around resident marine iguanas and graspus (red rock crab) and made our way to the lighthouse where a family of sea lions were hove off just to the left of the lighthouse entrance. Carefully stepping past the sea lions, Paul climbed the rickety steps to catch the view from above. I chose not to tempt my fate with the sea lions and instead, opted to hang out with the marine iguanas and crabs.  

“Fun” fact about those crabs...when they mate, they face one another, claws outstretched in a hugging position. The Graspus Crab never turns its back to another crab as it will end with the one behind, ripping apart the forward crab, limb by limb until it simply dies! Talk about vicious!

Anyway, after three days of bumming around the island, it’s beaches, interpretations centres and hiking trails we made our way back to Santa Cruz. As we docked, the sky opened up and it poured for the first time since we left home! We decided to catch a cab to save ourselves from the rain and what a wonderful decision it turned out to be!

The cabby’s daughter was riding shotgun and was all a chatter trying to practise her English. She was in grade nine and had won a scholarship to attend a private school on Santa Cruz. The school offered her better chances of securing potential scholarships for post secondary education which she hoped to pursue in the United States. Quite the keener and with her mother’s permission, Benita offered us a deal on a ride to the airport in the morning. She say “You win because it’s cheaper and I win because I get to practise my English!”

So the next morning we piled into her Uncle’s pickup (her mother had another call) and drove the 40 km across Santa Cruz to the ferry. It was a great ride across the island and the perfect note to end our Galapagos experience! Benita was the best of the Galapagos people. She was hard-working, curious & driven. She was making great efforts at 14 to position herself well for her future. She had a tremendous sense of self and place. She was proud of where she was from and though she wanted to see the world, she also wanted to become skilled and to bring those skills back to the Galapagos. She was quite the firecracker! 

By far, the best taxi ride we had in South America, we said our goodbyes to Benita and wished her well. Her uncle chuckling in admiration at his niece, waved us goodbye and off we went in opposite directions, each chasing their own dream. I suspect for some time to come, I’ll think of Benita, hoping she accomplishes all that she has in her heart and mind to do. 

As one plane boarded its passengers, full with love for all the Galapagos had offered them, another landed and offloaded another group, starry eyed with wonder for what they might experience. If they have only half the experience we had, they will leave with hearts full!

Oh! Galápagos I love you; your islands, your people, your wildlife and your food! You did not disappoint!