March 17, 2015
HAMPI BAZAAR
Pushpa Guesthouse 1200Rs ($19.35) Double with AC
 
Drenched in sweat since the town power went kaput, we decided to catch the sunrise from the roof. We should have pulled our mattresses up there sooner. It was lovely and cool. 
 
We spent the day catching cat naps in between periodic jaunts down the stairs, across the dirt road, taking extreme care not to step in buffalo pies, up the stairs and to chill out behind lemon sodas and non-spicy veg meals at Chillout Cafe. 
 
 
March 18, 2015 - 
Motoring Around the Ancient City

36 Square Miles
   
In the 15th century, Hampi was Vijayanagra and the capital of the Hindu Vijayangra Empire. It grew to 500000 people and was the second largest city in the world behind Peking. Then, in 1565, a Muslim confederacy Deccan Sultanates attacked and laid the city to ruin. 

Hampi's 3700 ruins, a handful walk-able from Hampi Bazaar, are spread over 36 square miles. Per city ordinance, motorcycle rentals have been banned in Hampi Bazaar people have to hire a Rickshaw driver for the day or go by bicycle. Across the river in Virupapur Gaddi, they can and do rent motorcycles to tourists, But we were happy to have our own!

 
20 Kilometer Country Ride - Temple, Anegunai, & Virupapur Gaddi

Today, we got an early start. We decided to check out Vittala Temple again. Having our own transport is especially nice in Hampi where the sights are so spread out and the scenery is so breathtaking. 
 

Vitthala Temple

Per the experts, Vitthala Temple represents the highest watermark of the Vijayanagara style of art and architecture. It was one of the largest of the period built from 1422 to 1446AD) with the 100 pillar pavilion added from 1508 to 1529. 

The visitor parking lot is almost a kilometer from the ticket booth and we walked along a bazaar road with ruins of the sacred water tank and pavilion buildings along the way. We bought our tickets and entered a gate into a the large walled compound to the temple. The base of the building are built of granite block with upper stories made brick. Sculptured ornate plinths decorate the pavilion buildings. Guides tried to collar us to explain the mythology represented in intricately carved columns. We dissuaded them quite easily and were able to roam the grounds unfettered.  
 

The most famous artifact in Hampi is the stone chariot at this temple.

The horse and rider columns are impressive.

 
Anegundi

It was really easy to get our motorcycle on the small boat and cross the Tungabhadra River to the village of Anegundi. An ancient pavilion by the river is surrounded by rice and we stopped for a visit. 

Then we looked around Anegundi village where there are small guesthouses, shops and restaurants.
 

Virupapur Gaddi

Rice fields and boulder fields line the road between Anegundi and Virupapur Gaddi on the north side of the river. Villagers were firing rifles to scare the black-faced Gray Langurs out of the crops. The Langurs ran but it seemed like the efforts to drive them away would be futile.
 
We left the main road and entered the backpacker enclave fo Virupapur Gaddi located on the beach just opposite Hampi Bazaar. We found a spot for lunch at a well regarded river view restaurant. Yup, this town maintains the backpacker vibe and seems like a great alternative to Hampi. Service at the place we picked was awful and the food mediocre. Pesky flies bothered us too and we got out of there as soon as we finished.
 
.......It was more difficult to take the motorcycle on the ferry here because the ramp down to the river and the steps up the other side were steep and sand covered. Other tourists and the boatmen helped lift the motorcycle onto the ferry. It was scary but Dave managed to ride up the ramp on the other side.

It had been a great day and we tallied 20km on the odometer.