Day 14 - 'The Queens Birthday......'
 
Rising with the noise of the freight train running just behind our campsite we both dressed like we were heading to the South Pole rather than whale watching . God it was cold and raining incessantly as it had been all night. The signs were not good we needed clear skies to find Moby Dick et al down at the HQ the 7.15 was cancelled, we were shunted onto the 10.30 and told to give them a call to check it was all systems go. Back at the campsite we hid under the duvet from the inclement weather and prayed for sunshine. It was all in vain and the whales would have to wait for another day to see us gawping at them. Our plan was to go west and get to the glaciers our van company diagnosed our battery problem and suggested we get a replacement in Greymouth. Back on the road we left the coast and headed towards the thermal springs of Hanmer, across the Lewis pass and onto Pancake rocks. It was good to be on the road and heading upwards we both love the mountain scenery and we are definitely in the right place for that. The look of the place is similar to England we could have been in the Lake district. Hanmer Hot springs were doing a roaring trade in the rain unfortunately time was a pressing and we missed out on a dip . The autumnal colours all around us as we ever so slowly made our way higher and higher to the Lewis Pass. By now the sun was straining to come out and the rain of the past few hours had passed. One of the big things you notice about driving across this country is the number of scenic parks, wildlife reserves, nature parks, walking tracks and lookout points dotted all along the different routes we have taken. You could spend months and months here exploring all the different tracks and viewpoints it's a fantastic country. Lewis Pass at whatever height it is can often be blocked but fortune was on our side and we sailed through taking in the spectacular views. From this point on it was all downhill the target being to reach the oddity that is pancake rocks for sunset, Nik had been raving about them most of the holiday and we had to get to them in the light. To get there meant having to travel north then south then eventually west again the Romans never visited New Zealand. Nearing the west coast the light was beginning to fade and it was going to be a close run thing to make sunset . As we drew nearer tantalising glimpses of the Tasman sea began appearing on our right however the road twisted and turned so much it took us another half hour to reach the coast edge. The sunset was magnificent and numerous pictures were taken we were not alone numerous people were hypnotised by this scene. Thee is something about the colours and spectacular process of a sunset and it seems to captivate one no matter how many times you see one. Taking in this sunset meant that by the time we arrived at Pancake rocks it was very dark, but true to our word we ventured along the track. We did forget our torch and the dark combined with the tremendous noise of the sea which seemed all around us made for a slightly nerve racking experience. We couldn't see anything but it was an incredible auditory moment. By the time we started on the route back to the van it was pitch black and Nik said her eyes weren't working but was seeing all sorts of monsters in the undergrowth. Making it back with some blood flowing in my hand we were off for glorious Greymouth little did we know at that time how long we would be there .
 
Some 30minutes into the journey the air was turned very blue by yours truly the glowplug warning light was flashing incessantly what did all this mean? Checking the manual it said stop immediately go directly to your Ford dealership do not collect 200 pounds - Bugger! Here we are in our second van on some deserted coast road with only possums and sheep for company and the bloody thing is having some sort of breakdown on us. Really it should have been Nik and I having the meltdown after the past few days not the van. Nursing one sickly vehicle we chugged into a very bleak Greymouth and checked into the campsite. That night listening to the sound of the surf Nik and I enjoyed a couple of glasses of wine musing our predicament. (Editors note today has been a bank holiday in NZ celebrating the Queens Birthday - Happy Birthday Queen)
 
Day 15 - A Grey day and Pancakes for Lunch
 
Following the call to our campervan people who advised the only place to remedy our technical difficulty was the Ford garage and fortunately there was one in Greymouth. Finding the place and explaining our difficulties we met some of the happy folk that live here. Leaving the van for its treatment we headed off to a café passing time doing postcards and stuff. Back at the garage we were informed the battery problem was fixed and a new part had been ordered to be fitted tomorrow. We couldn't believe yet again we had to hang around due to van issues; we are by now pretty flexible even if yours truly is having problems seeing the funny side. It meant that we could travel up in the sunlight to see those infamous pancake rock things. Driving up the coast we saw all the sights we had missed in the dark the previous night the light was very peculiar, the sun was casting very strange shapes and light formations across the ocean. Finally we got to see the infamous 'Pancake Rock's,' layered lime stone whose creation is still much of a mystery to geologists. The blow holes weren't blowing as loud as the night before but the layered formations and coastline were pretty impressive and worth the wait! On the way back down to 'sunny' Greymouth, the sunset again was remarkable, this time it was as though sparks were coming off the sun as it disappeared into the sea...... if we had been told that the best sunsets we would see around the world would be in NZ we wouldn't have believed it, but without doubt they definitely were! That eve more cheap box wine called and a look at the local news. Much to our amusement 'Al the Albastross' was the headline as he had been found with a poorly wing, but thankfully, he is expected to make a full recovery!! It really hit home at this point, the remoteness of the south island but I suppose its better than crime and murders to listen to...... hopefully tomorrow we will hear part 2 on Al!