Colombo, City of Curries and Cricket

Wednesday, July 10, 2013
Colombo, Sri Lanka
Colombo is a striking city and on that is most definitely on the move. Construction is the name of the game and in the next few years the skyline will transform itself and the city will have several new crisscrossing roads. Not before time, the traffic weary locals will say. Currently the city resembles a building sight. I started off in the Fort or Port area where the main railway is located amongst bus stops, markets, bazaars and a a whirl of activity. Here is hot humid and dusty, but the smiles and welcoming spirit of locals really shine through.

Out towards the Port the ruminants of its colonial past stand, little used and some overgrown with plants . As you head south the Indian ocean comes into view crashing against the coastal defences. this is where the majority of the new international hotels will be located to join the Cinnamon Grand and the Hilton. 

Galle Road is the main through fair that hugs the coast as you move south. Its lined by a ramshackle line of shops and restaurants (here called hotels - confused!), which seem to stretch as far as the eye can see. Walking down here, you run a gauntlet of Tuk Tuk drivers and touts.

Behind here you reach the South Beira Lake with its island temples and a man made island housing a modern band stand type construction. This had been sort of turned into a lovers lane by local couples and local birdlife. Ignoring the fluorescent colour of the water, the bird life was indeed impressive although most couples on the island seemed somewhat pre-occupied. Rather strangely people can rent a giant pedal shaped like a large swan to paddle around the lake . the birds seem oblivious... and these include the rare Spot Billed Pelican amongst Cormorants and ducks.

Cinnamon Gardens is though much more reminiscent of other Asian cities with wide avenue's and tall leafy trees. This was where the cinnamon trees were in colonial times. The feel is relaxed, cooler and most certainly affluent. Government offices are here with smart boutiques and new cafes. An all together different feel.

I have been traveling here by Tuk Tuk, which in Colombo have meters, most civilized. This has not prevented several Tuk Tuk skirmishes, but on the whole has been fun and affordable. i have got the knack of choosing the older driver, not the young turk and never a driver that calls out, curb crawls or starts yelling. I must say though some techniques are very funny. For example "hello sir, you must take my transport, walking will only cause weight loss, terrible for your status...!"  "Which bankrupt country are you from sir, when you cant afford my cheap price?"

The food has been fantastic. Hoppers, curries, kotthu rotti plus great tea. One thing that I have found strange is the practice of cleaning the plates and then covering the plate with either cling film or a plastic bag before putting the food on it. The photo below illustrates this. nevertheless the food has been delicious. So its off to Kandy tomorrow up in the highlands areas, where it should be cooler and quieter.
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