Diego Suarez is a large city on what can only be described as one of the world’s most beautiful bays, right on the northern tip of Madagascar. The city is also an historical gem, but alas has fallen on bad times. Its past and its former French colonial splendour is very much in evidence, however many of the buildings have certainly seen better times, and whilst it is still a popular port of call for the cruise chips, its mostly the old French pensioners and their Madagascan girlfriends that hold sway here.


The northern part of the city that banks on to the southern part of this immense bay has the best preserved colonial buildings and a few bleached majestic ruins . The southern part of town appears like any other Madagascan city. The city itself has a relaxed feel and a few mod cons like a large supermarket, a few souvenir shops and a top class hotel. Bizarrely the central abattoir is in town right by the (would be picturesque) marina as are the sentenced Zebu in the pen next door. The city has a feeling of calmness that certainly Tana does not have and also feels safer.


Not that this mattered much to me in La Belle Aventure. This little corner of France is owned by Yves and his Madagascan family and is a central haunt for many of the ex-pats. It was clean and hygienic and the food could have fallen out of central France with baguettes, croissants, Zebu (with cream?!* - unfortunately can’t escape that one) mustard, foie gras etc etc. Everyone is very kind and no one speaks English. My plan to get better (after that horrendous bout of food poisoning) is thus put in motion with copious quantities of drugs from London and lots of sleep .


Its only on the second day that I actually feel like exploring town and walking down to the coast which offers great views across this astounding bay. The only thing it reminds me of is Sydney, funnily enough without a trace of any development, except from where I am standing. During the war the Vichy French government were in power here and the allies lead by the British invaded Diego Suarez across this bay to reinstall the Free French Government.


With the tiny settlement of Ramona on the righthand side of the bay, the whole area looked ripe for exploration and I was keen get moving. I had to alter my plans somewhat due to this stomach problem (thankfully the fever had gone now) and I decided now to explore the bay before heading south to the National Parks. After a bit of research on the internet, I came across Les Filibusters an eco resort situated on the opposite side of the bay to Ramona on a bay called, Baie des Cailloux Blancs .


Despite the fact it was hiding on a French Tourist information website, the web pages looked interesting and were in English. I decided to walk over to the Tourist Information and ask them. The lady inside responded, “Non, its is closed and for sale!”  That rather dashed my plans and off I went to track down Eric, a man renting cheap 4x4s, so I could get to the Tsingy Rouges and Ankarana National Park, when I felt better.


That afternoon I was sitting at the Belle Aventure having coffee, when I noticed a car with Les Les Filibusters written on the side parked opposite. I jotted down the number and was soon speaking to the owner Camille, who assured me that he was open. I booked.


The next day both Camille and his wife Amelie, arrived to collect me as arranged . Camille had warned me that he spoke no English, but his English was not as bad as he had warned me on the phone, and off we went. We drove down to the harbour to board his new sailing boat. This involved a drive past the working abattoir, situated in all its sensory glory right next to the harbour. Even the penned Zebu, awaiting their turns, were located almost next to the boats and the harbour restaurant. Now thats what I call “fresh meat”.


We sauntered along the wooden jetty to the wooden boat that Camille said, “I have just purchased in this morning” and clabbered aboard. Amelie mentioned “the sea is calm” and that got me thinking. Two local Madagascan guys were crewing the boat and they turned out to be Camille’s staff and off we went.


Out in the bay it was quite choppy, but the boat sped along with the winds caught in the sail . It took 90 mins to transverse the bay until we arrived in the tranquil Cailloux Blancs. It had struck me on the way over, that although I knew this bay was isolated, there was not much to find on written about this place except what was on their website. However as it turned out, it was all correct, it was a blissful paradise, quiet, unspoiled, beautiful and comfortable…. just unknown, as it only opened some six months ago.


Seven large, clean and luxurious bungalows, big enough for two double beds and ensuite with a terrace were set back from the private sandy bay amongst indigenous trees. The beach itself was quiet, golden sands with a small strip of brown coral and a slow incline down into deeper waters. When the tide was high, the sea lapped around the surrounding Mangroves, which housed Yellow Necked Weavers, Sparrows, Herons, Egrets and a Malachite Kingfisher. Crabs small and large ran about the beach and amongst the bungalows, night Lemurs, Chameleons, harmless Boas and local snakes, purple headed Doves and Bulbuls plus various insects kept me royally entertained.


It was just as Camille had promised.. paradise. It was only me, Camille, Amelie and the four Madagascan staff for three days. I relaxed, read, walked, swam and chilled and after my stay felt so much better. The biggest surprise was the food, which was excellent. Fresh barbecued fish, fresh crab, prawns, zebu etc etc. It was great and special mention must go to Camille’s omelettes the best I have sampled on this trip.


I ate each meal with Camille and Amelie. Camille originally came from Lorraine in Eastern France and had moved to Madagascar last year after leaving his job in France. He moved everything out including his 5,000 bottle collection of wine which was housed in several large wine chillers, lining the walls of the restaurant. He was upset I had finished drinking, but continued to crack bottles of Sauternes, Bordeaux, Rhone and Provence wines during my visit.


The photography was fun as the place was so photogenic, but the real quest was the elusive kingfisher, who only appeared on two mornings. On the second day I got a message from Ana Marie (whom I had met in Tana) and recommended she come here, and she arrived on my last day.


It was a great shame to leave this paradise. I had cancelled my plans to go to Ramona and now had to return to Diego or miss my plans to visit the Tsingy Rouge and the Ankarana National Park. I said goodbye to Ana Marie and Amelie, before Camille took me back across the bay to the Belle Aventure. What a great place Les Filibusters is…….