Aaaaah, a much better sleep was had by all last night, and at 7.30am we were up and raring to go on another adventure to explore the delights of this utopian landscape. Today, however, we were feeling more than a little sore after yesterday's exertions and so decided to tackle some of the scenic drives within the park. Breakfast was eaten by the side of the road. Not normally a piece of information to write home about, but if you could see the side of the road we ate our breakfast on, then you would understand. On one side, Half Dome towered above us, its black granite peak seeming to glint in the morning sun. On the other three sides, sheer granite walls stretched almost endlessly into the cornflower sky above. Today was going to be a warm one!
Our first destination was the fabled Glacier Point, one of the most scenic viewpoints in the park. Once the site of two luxury hotels with stunning panoramic vistas of the valley and the mountains beyond, a fire in the 1960s burned both accommodations down in one night. The park officials then decided to leave the area undeveloped and allow all tourists to access the spectacular views. The drive to Glacier Point, over 7000ft above sea level took us via the Ahwanhee hotel. Established in the 1920's, the hotel was the first luxury hotel to be built in the area, when the owners decided that upper class visitors needed somewhere to stay in order to enjoy the park. The hotel was built on Native American land, and still pays homage to its origins. Native American quilts hang from the balcony in the lobby, and stained glass windows are etched with traditional designs. Outside, there are sweeping views of the surrounding mountains, but I have to say, that I really think that our views in Curry Village are superior. Naturally we don't have the same comforts as the 5* visitors at the Ahwahnee, but our morning view of Half Dome is hard to beat. We grabbed a free coffee from the lobby, took some pictures of the historic building and then headed out to the main attraction. On the way, we scored a real coup with an Alaskan number plate, taking our total states to 38!
The drive to Glacier point began with a urge number of "Wow" views. Driving around the valley floor, we passed the trail heads for a number of waterfalls, Cathedral Peaks, Half Dome and El Capitan, its sheer rock face a Mecca for mountaineers, looming on our left hand side. As we passed El Capitan, we spotted a helicopter, which we initially believe to be for scenic sightseeing. However, as we slowed down as instructed, we soon realised that there were a large number of police, ambulance and rescue crews alongside the chopper, and deduced that there must have been an incident on the rock face. El Capitan tempts rock climbers from all over the world, challenged by its in accessibility. Climbers ascend the rock over the course of two days, camping on narrow ledges on its side, before waiting for sunrise to resume their climb. However, incidents among inexperience climbers are common in the park. Each year over 200 people are brought down from hiking trails and mountainsides by search and rescue, usually due to ill preparation.
We wound our way out of the main valley floor and began to climb, with heart-stopping drops to either side of the car. Although the road was bendy, it did not alarm us too significantly, we were too entranced by the views from all angles. However, after around half an hour, we found ourselves at a natural plateau, just before the road headed into a tunnel. Fortunately, I had the trusty Lonely Planet to hand and it informed me that we had just reached one of the most photographed and mesmerising viewpoints in the whole of the area. We considered giving it a miss..... As if! We pulled into the parking lot, and straight away we were greeted with said incredible views. The edge of the car park drops off into the valley below, while an almost tunnel effect is created by the key big-hitters stretching out before you. El Capitan, North Dome, Half Dome, Vernal Falls, Nevada Falls and the Sierra Nevada mountains unfold as your eyes take in each sight in turn. Like a pop-up picture, the sights jostle for attention as your eyes adjust to the morning sunshine and the dazzling beauty before you. This was a stunning place to whet our whistles for the eventual reward on our journey up the winding roads ahead.
And wind they did! Hairpin bend after hairpin bend, with cavernous drops to either side of the road. The views around were almost a hazard in their beauty, encouraging us to pull over sharply at regular intervals just to take in their vastness. Waterfalls cascaded over precipices in the misty distances huge pine forest undulated across the foreground. Contracted with the bright blue sky, dotted with clouds, the greens and earthy reds of the steep sided cakes were crying out for an artist's palate. After a nerve-jangling journey through the pine forests, we reached the top of Glacier Point. We saw signposts leading to the four mike trail, reminding us that we could have taken the hiking trail from the valley floor, rather than taking the easy way up. However, with the state of our muscles we were glad of the break!
Once we gazed over the edge, we felt like we were cheating somehow. To be experiencing such incredible views for such a little effort (the views were accessible a 2 minute stroll from the car park!) felt like an undeserved reward. Before us the whole of the valley stretched out in a 270 degree panorama. We were at eye level with Half Dome, while we had sweeping views of Vernal Falls and above it, cascading down, Nevada Falls. It gave us a real sense of perspective of the hike we had undertaken the day before. Below, on the valley floor, we were able to see Curry Village, the white canvas of its tents peeping through the blanket of pine trees covering the hiking trails. The Awahnee Hotel was also visible through the trees. Stretching into the distance, we could see the Sierra Nevada (lovely beer btw - Stacey) mountain ranges. It was a once in a lifetime view and we were absolutely awe-struck by the beauty in front of our eyes. Despite the early morning visitors, we managed to find several secluded spots in which to enjoy the vistas, and played around clambering on the rocks, making it a more daredevil experience!
After a prolonged photography stop, we headed around a half mile down the hill to another viewpoint, this one of the eastern ranges of the park. We enjoyed a snack and more photography (you think you've got the best shot possible, and then another 50 incredible shots present themselves to you one after another!) and then made our way even further down the hill to the trailhead for Sentinel Dome.
Sentinel Dome is a fairly easy walk, although there are some unmarked and uneven sections and a could of steep ascents, particularly the final climb to the summit of the dome itself. However, the 2.5 mile hike takes you through incredible redwood forest, with views to all sides each time you emerged through the trees into another section of the climb. After this, there was a steep climb over the smooth granite sides of the rounded dome, perched atop one of the area's monoliths. From the top (where the wind had really begun to pick up) we enjoyed 360 degree views of the entire park. Half Dome sprawled before us this time displaying the northern face (that the clothing company is names after), while El Capital rose imposingly to one side. We ate our lunch, accompanied by another cheeky squirrel who was close to snatching the remains out of our hands!
It was getting late in the day by this point, so we decided to head back to the valley floor and take in some of the lower level waterfalls. As we were descending the twisty roads back to ground level, we noticed that the traffic ahead was backed up and many cars were pulled into the side of the road. Doors were flung open and peel were stood around in clusters. We assumed that there had been an accident, but as we drew closest, we realised that people were staring off into the trees to the right of the road. Suddenly, "Babe.... It's a bear!" Stacey whispered. "Get the camera and get out of the car..." I didn't need telling twice. I leapt out of the car, leaving the door wide open and stalked towars where people were standing, after peering blindly into the trees, all around me I could hear "Ooh" and "Aaaah" and "isn't it amazing?!" While I frantically searched for just a glimpse of the promised bear. Finally, I saw him, moving powerfully and yet incredibly gently through a gap in the trees. It was a breathtaking moment. All of the noise of the camera shutters and hushed whispers around me disappeared and my focus was held entirely by the beatiful creature before me. The bear moved through the trees along the edge of the road, finally padding into a clearing in front of our car. Stacey too, I could tell was entranced by the sight before her. After it's a few more seconds of this incredible sight, the bear moved into the thicker undergrowth in behind it and disappeared from view.
I got back into the car, full of wonder, excitement and more than a little adrenaline as the enormity of what had just happened hit me. "We just saw a bear. An actual bear. A bear!" Was all we could utter for the first five minutes of our disorientated drive back down the mountain. We could not believe that after all of the build up to the threat of theme bears to humans, we had seen one, and it had been as gentle as a lamb. Obviously, had it been startled, threatened or possibly even hungry, it could have been a very different story and we would never underestimate the power of wild animals. However we really had believed that all if the warnings had been over exaggerated and that our chances of seeing a bear had been incredibly slim, so to witness one, and at such a close range, was an incredible feeling.
As our scenic drive came to a close, we eventually wound our way back to the valley floor and headed to. Bridalveil Falls - one of the most photographed and spectacular waterfalls in the park. It cascades as a mist over the edge of a ledge high up in the mountainside and then falls in a fine spray to the pool below. Sometimes, on a windy day, the spray is blown from side to side and makes a ribbon of water as it falls. However, today it was not meant to be for us. The waterfall was almost dry. We could see a very very thin mist blowing over the top of the falls and being blown away in the breeze, although this was incredibly difficult to distinguish from the wispy clouds dotting the sky above. Midway down the cliff face was a tiny running trickle, which in early spring would have been a spectacular roaring tumble of foam. However, the setting for the falls was beautiful, so we weren't too disappointed.
We then headed to Yosemite Village, the centre of the action on the valley floor. Here we enjoyed a photography display by Ansell Adams - famous for his images of the spectacular scenery of California's national parks, but in particular, Yosemite. Most of his landscape prints are in black and white, which makes them unique amidst a market saturated with images of Half Dome and the stunning waterfalls. Ansell Adams is arguably the most famous photographer to have produced work in the area and his prints are truly stunning. His use of light and shade to capture the ethereal beauty of the park is astounding. We were tempted to buy a print, to remind us of our incredible time here, but with originals selling for $30,000 un framed and prints retailing at $200 un framed, we decided to become our own Ansells and frame prints of our own photography of the scenery.
We returned to Curry Village, and once again found a sot on the old veranda with a few glasses of wine. We were joined by a Swiss couple, and then a German couple, and we enjoyed sharing stories, hints and tips about the hiking and spectacular sights we had all experienced while staying in the park. It was a gorgeous evening, and we were able to watch the sun going down for the last time over the granite scenery surrounding the camp. Yosemite. National Park has truly been one of the most spectacular land and unique places I have ever visited. Every corner brings a new wow moment, a new perspective on an incredible place. Our necks hurt from gazing up at the beautiful views around at all angles and heights and we feel truly blessed to have been able to experience such a wonderful place.
Two final events rounded off this amazing part of the holiday: 1. Or friendly raccoon came to pay us a visit and we were able to take photos while he guzzled on leftover sodas and the contents of brown paper bags.2. I found a Hawaii number plate! Yes!
States added: Alaska, Kansas, West Virginia, North Dakota, Ohio, Hawaii. New count 43
A (semi) rest for the legs and a furry friend!
Wednesday, August 13, 2014
Yosemite National Park, California, United States
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