October 5, 2011
        Sheila and I set out about 10:40 am for Granada and we decided to take the route out of Malaga which is all freeway. The road winding north out of Malaga was a slow but steep climb in the Sierra Nevada of Spain. I kept wondering the further north and seeing home high on the crest of hills, with no obvious access, why would someone live here, and if they do live here where do the work and how do they get supplies to these isolated areas? I am sure that the individuals do not think twice about such things, but it is a mystery to me, as there are no towns for long stretches and the homes are few and far between.   The hills, mountains, are arid and extremely dry and have extremely steep slopes. Once we got into the valley that runs parallel to the Mediterranean some 50 kilometers south.          
            We made a rest stop prior to entering Granada and checked our directions to our hotel.   As we were driving up toward Alhambra, a man flagged us over and claimed that there was a complication ahead.   We told him that we were on our way to the hotel Guadalupe and he said we would have to follow him around the complication. So we turned back down the hill and took a bunch of turns and adequate and quaint but were in the range of maybe a minus 2 star by comparison. narrow streets and came up a hill past our hotel and into one that allowed us to go back down the 100 meters. I went to hand him five Euros he said, no twenty Euros. I did and knew that I had experienced my first shake down in Spain. I have thought about it a lot and I think I know how I could have handled it differently.   It was 20 Euros and we did get to the hotel, and yes I took it hook line and sinker!
            The hotel Guadalupe is really a great hotel, and it is directly across from the Alhambra which is our intended exploration point for tomorrow. When we entered our room I was struck by the spaciousness and the modern and clean décor.   Unlike our past hotels, the space in the room allows you to walk without stepping over or around something.   This is probably a 3 star and the others where we stayed were certainly adequate and quaint but had a probable minus 2 star rating by comparison.             
            We secured our tickets for the Alhambra, which were set up through our hotel reservations and explored a little around the immediate area. We talked to the woman at the desk about making a reservation for dinner at 7:30 pm at the Arrayanes Restaurant, a Moroccan restaurant recommended by Rick Steves. We got some supplies from a store next to the hotel and relaxed before heading off for dinner.              
             Later, got a cab through the hotel and went to the Plaza Nueva and our cabbie instructed us to go up a side street and turn right. At first I thought it was odd being left at the plaza but as we followed the route I found that is was walking only and narrow is a broader term than some of the paths we took. We did see a sign for Arrayanes and we walked in and we were directed around the corner and up to sidewalk. We were early and it was not yet open for business.    We turned to look for some place to go and a young gentleman opened the door and invited us in. We sat on the ground floor and three couples followed us and got tables. As the menu was new to the both of us we took our time, and when we were asked what we wanted to drink it dawned on me that they would not serve wine or alcohol. We ordered water and non-alcohol beer.   Next was tackling the food menu, Sheila ordered the eggplant starter and I ordered chicken briquest, and Sheila ordered an entrée of lamb and vegetables and I ordered lamb and rice. Her starter arrived and was chilled and very tasty with the pita bread that was served. My chicken arrived and it looked more like a dessert than a starter. It was a dough wrapped crisp triangle with chopped chicken, almonds and seasoning. The picture on the menu looked more like miniature spring roles, so I was a little surprised. It tasted fine and it was obviously a new experience. Sheila lamb and vegetables were a stew and my lamb with rice reminded me a fried rice but had a distinctly different taste which I enjoyed very much. The dinner was a good new experience and I would like to try other Moroccan food to compare with this meal.              
                    After dinner we checked out some of the many street shops that were open and walked back to the Plaza Nueva and sat near a fountain and had some wine and sin alcohol cerveza for dessert before heading back to our hotel. 

October 6, 2011
                     We went to the buffet breakfast at the Gaudelupe Hotel which included a broader selection than our past experiences. I enjoyed the diversity of food and for the first time eggs and bacon (not rashers). One of the issues that has become apparent to me is that I have found it hard to get a good cup of coffee. I now realize how spoiled I am by the options that I have in the US. In most of our travel when you order coffee you ask for americano, which is expresso with water added. In France I was able to make a pot of coffee in the morning, but the coffee brands were difficult to adjust to because they were predominately expresso or dark roast. In Spain I am currently using a coffee press, which has dregs as you get toward the last of the coffee. As I pressed the button for the cafe americano I suddenly found myself wishing I could find a good cup of coffee that I take for granted at the local Shell station near Bon Aire plaza. Sorry for the digression, but evey once in a while these thoughts pop up for me. I should mention that Sheila was not happy about her tea because they did not have any black tea.
                    We walked across the street and got in line for the Alhambra tour, that is self guided. The map showed an extensive layout and we were scheduled to tour the Nasrid Palaces at 11:00 am so we decided to go to the Alcazaba (military fort) first. The walk to the Alhambra area had lush gardens and hedges with openings that were arches to see the gardens and pools.
 
 
 













































                On our approach to the center plaza we found foundation ruins near the Gate of Justice (Pureto de la Justica).   This was listed as a must see, however the tower door was closed to the public on this day.   The tower veiw would have been an excellent spot to overlook Granada below. 















 
                As we approached the area that accessed three of the major parts of the tour we noticed the Church of Santa Maria. I was intrigued by the outside as it was not typical of the church entrances I had seen to date and had a square shape which did not distinguish it from other building in the immediate courtyard.   Once we entered the building we found that it was well adorned in the inside and obviously a Roman Catholic style which was ornate and very impressive.




















                   We walked through the Wine Gate (Pureta del Vino) to start our exploration of the Alcazaba. Again as we approached I was struck by the squareness of the towers and walls. There were no turrets or openings for weaponry as we have seem in many of the military fortresses in other countries.  









            Inside we saw the ruins of other buildings that had once made up the living quarters of the soliders and staff of the military. At the far end, from the entrance towers stood the Watch Tower (Torre de la Vela) which had an overview of all the surrounding area of the hill side below. We did not go to the top as we were getting a little tired and we were watching the time for our visit to the palaces.   There was a beautiful garden along side of the fort which was probably provided a restful presence for those involved in guarding the Alhambra.   There was a terrace off to the left of the entrance to the fort that had impressive views of Granada below. We were stunned at the amazing horizons that existed from this vantage point.

 



























        We left the Alcazaba and went to the garden area in front of the Charles V Palace and the entrance to the Nasrid Palaces. The gentlemen at the entrance was very diligent about making sure everyone was held to the specific entrance time. He stood firm inspite of some of the more insistent tourists whose watches obviously had a different time than the gate keeper.
 
    


















          Finally the strap for the entrance line was released and he gestured graciously for all to proceed into the Nasrid Palaces.   We followed the crowd and took a number of stairs up and down and entered the first area of the palaces, which was dark and cool and was considered the Court of the Machuca. It was the place were entrance and business were transacted. The windows on the back courtyard for prayer was bright and had a view that was impressive.

















            Sheila and I were amazed by the wall carvings and the script throughout the main hall and court yard. The audio information was helpful and I enjoyed the fact that some of the script was from Washington Irvings writings on the Alhambra.
 















            It appeared to me that each area of the palace seemed to express all of the grandeur possible and that it did in fact reflect the spiritual presence of Allah. The unique aspect of the palaces were that from the outside they were simple and not ornate, whereas the inside areas spoke of the power of the faith of Islam. What an interesting perspective and so opposite much of the western world, where the outside shows splendor and the inside, lacks the profound expression of faith. I realize that this is not true in all aspects of western architecture, but it is so vivid characteristic of the Alhambra.   The interior faith is very much a part of what we experienced.
















            


            The chambers and gardens in the Nasrid Palaces were impressive as we meandered through each area.   In many ways words fall short of the experience of each of these aspects of the palaces. The pictures do not even accurately reflect the actual experience of these areas.



 























































            The Court of the Lions (Patio de los Leones) was under construction while we were there and we saw the 12 Lions separately and at the end of our tour came to the courtyard with all of the construction taking place.   What I found interesting was that the fountain of lions was a gift from the Jewish community of Granada.  In addition to this the fountain served as a clock, as each lion mouth was the source of flow and it changed from one to the next each hour, going around the fountain.   The 12 lions were a symbol of the 12 tribes of Israel and this was given during a period of religious tolerance.   When Christian rule became the political sway of Granada in 1492, so after the Islamic and Jewish faiths were attacked and persecuted.   A sad commentary as this holds t4ue even now, with the huge emnity between faiths and even within faiths. Such internal spirituality and expression of faith giving way to external control and self righteousness. Others may disagree with me, but this has become more of my experience as I expand my experiences. 
             Sheila and I went into the Palace of Charles the V (Palacio de CarlosV) following our tour of the Nasrid Places. We were a little worn out so we checked out the center court yard. It had an impressive column structure, and the sound in the courtyard was of outstanding quality. a stage whisper from the center could be heard in all directions. The unfortunate thing for me was that while impressive it had none of artistry and beauty of the other palaces.
   















                    We had a short break and went on to see the Generalife.   this was a considerable walk from the palace area and we had another view of the skyline of the city and the ravine between the palaces area and the Generalife gardens. Here the gardens are very expansive and each garden has fountains or pools. One thing I had forgotten to mention earlier was that the lack of water was a common Islamic experience and in Spain, is was abundant enough to be celebrated as a special source of spiritual bathing and a statement of the bountiful gifts of Allah. The Generalife area was a place for peace and calm and the residence for the sultan was designed with leasure and beauty, separate from the palaces which were the places for politics an ruling decisions.

 



























        
        Sheila and I walked back to the hotel and relaxed for a while. We got a pizza from a shop two doors from the hotel and enjoyed a time away from the crowds of tourists and buses at the Alhambra. I did walk up the hill to find an ATM, I was interested in the buildings at the top and I found that it was a local cemetery. I asked for directions in a office inside the gates, and as I made my way to the area I was directed a funeral procession with a small hearse and everyone walking behind to go to the burial site. I paused and waited as it passed by out of respect for the family and friends. I did find the ATM after they passed by and returned to the hotel.
        In the late afternoon we caught a mini bus to the Plaza Nueva to explore explore the Real Cathedral and chapel. Rick Steves mentioned that it is the second largest next to the one in Sevilla and that while it was originally designed to be gothic, in the process of its construction it had more of a baroque style. It surrounded by a lot of buildings so it was difficult from the outside to get a sense of size and proportion. We entered on the side so we did not see the front of the cathedral. After paying our entrance fee we walked down a hall which was the connection between the vestry and the access to the main altar. I just glanced toward the vestry and it appeared huge, I could imagine at least 20 clergy and officiants preparing their robing for services. I certainly became aware of what baroque meant when we entered by the main chancel, from the organ pipe box to the pupit, the ceiling of the altar area, the procession of the Christ Crucified cart main altar, and side altars,elaborate is hardly the word.































                After the tour of the cathedral we walked back to the Plaza Nuerva and had some drinks under the tented area in front of the restaurant we visited the night before. The sign read free tapas so we ordered drinks and had a free tapas of curry chicken. It was not a favorite or a keeper for Sheila. When we order our next round we had another tapas provided and this was a potatoe salad. We both agreed that this was definitely not a keeper.   It was still early, but we went to see when the Bodega Castaneda opened.   There was no sign so we guessed that it would at least be 7:00pm so we found a bench near the plaza and did some more people watching. Sheila was captivated by two couples who were being entertained by one of the men in the group. A street vendor came over to them and the gentleman never missed a step as he talked over the vendor. He was very animated with arm gestures and particularly his eyebrow movement. Meanwhile, it seemed that between the deli owner and the fascinating variety of people of all sizes, heights, ages and bright hair cuts streamed past as we waited for the time to pass. I did get up and go around the block and found a person pulling up the window covers and asked when he would be open and he told me in 5 minutes. I went back to our bench and got Sheila for our next dining experience. The restaurant, recommended by Rick Steves was a tapas place and we were looking forward to have a good tapas experience.   We ordered croquets of ham and cheese, tuna with avocado, jambon with tomatoe and veal with bacon and some drinks. The croquettes were ok but nothing fancy. Then were received a plate of the other three tapas, one each. The tuna with avocado and roe was delicious. The jambon with tomatoe was ok and the veal with bacon was very tasty but a little dry and therefore tuff. I expect that we will eventually find some great place for tapas, however it may be more about our expectations than the food that is served. We returned to the Hotel Guadelupe for our final night in Granada.

October 7, 2011
                We slept in a bit by our standards and decided to have breakfast at a place near the hotel and by pass the hotels offering. I knew that there was a place to the right of our hotel that offered breakfast, however, it was not open. We asked at the desk and she mentioned that there were a couple that would be open to the left of the hotel. We walked three doors down and found a cafe with an open front for breakfast.  I ordered my cafe Americano and Sheila had tea, a croissant and we both ordered a fried egg. It was not a fashionable breakfast but it tasted good and the gentleman that served us was very friendly and responded to our every need.    I cid tell Sheila that when we got back to Cabopino I was going to find a coffee pot system which would give me a decient cup of java.
                We checked out of the hotel and told the woman who had checked us in that we had truly enjoyed our stay and appreciated all of the staff's graciousness and willing to assist us in spite of inability to speak Spanish. I went across to the parking lot got the car and picked up Sheila and our backs at the hotel and drove south to Motril. The hardest part of the trip was when I realized, that the person who had stiffed us using the story of construction ahead, had cut us off less than a half mile from our destination. Our drive took us through the Sierra Neveda range directly south and was another picturesque ride even with the haze that was typical during our stay in Granada.














Of course windmills filled parts of the landscape heading south.















               We drove to the town of Nerja which was recommended to us and we drove into town with very little difficulty, found underground parking and walked to the pier Rick Steves had mentioned and we attempted to locate the restaurant Papagayos which was just below the pier. So I walked to the end of the pier because I saw a sign to a restaurant below the pier, however, this was not the right one.  Sheila took a picture of the beach below and I noticed that to the left was the restaurant we were looking for.  
 













                It was not under the pier but on the beach. So we found a path down to the restaurant and order light lunches as it had been a hot ride and the beach front was equally warm. Sheila enjoyed a shrimp and avocato salad and I had the shrimp caesar salad. The meal was very refreshing and enjoyable. We were one of the few patrons who were not in swim wear.
 
















                We climbed back up to the board walk and we decided to check out a few shops along the way back to our car. Sheila did find a charm of the Gaudi Holy Family church which added to her necklace of charms of the places we have been on our house exchanges. We found our car and got back on the road to Malaga and then on to Cabopino.   It was a warm drive and the both of us were exhausted and grateful for our air conditioned casa.