La Rioja is a region well known for its wines, particularly of the red variety made with tempranillo grape. This area of Spain has over 500 wineries, and we experienced tastings in two very contrasting environments.

Bodega Marques de Riscal was within walking distance from the small village of Elciego where we stayed . Set amidst rolling hills of vines, the site of the bodega is unmissable due to the striking architecture of the adjoining luxury hotel. Designed by Frank Gehry, of Guggenheim fame, its flowing gold, red and white stainless steel sheets aim to resemble the motion of wine being poured. Pleasing to some, ugly to others, it certainly made a stark contrast to the quaint surrounding villages. Incongruous. The tour of the bodega was sleek and we will remember it next time we pick up its recognisable gold-netted bottle in the supermarket back home.

After visiting (and tasting in) a couple of smaller independent bodegas around Elciego, we set out to nearby Laguardia. Founded in the 10th century as a defence town for the kingdom of Navarra, this beautiful walled settlement is located on a hill overlooking the vineyards with the Cantabrian Mountains in the background. A key feature of Laguardia is its extensive tunnel network which was dug under the town to keep the inhabitants safe during battles with openings that exited the hillside for potential escape . After the town was no longer needed for its strategic military position, the inhabitants noticed that the underground climate was perfect for storing wine. The tunnels are still in operation today, and we visited one of the cellars to hear the history of wine making in this area. Naturally, here the tasting was a bit more rustic as we sampled wine from original stone tanks.

Another highlight of this town was the Iglesia de Santa Maria de los Reyes, with its well preserved portico dating from the 14th century. We sat in pews in complete darkness in front of the giant well-preserved portico and watched as it was systematically lit up to reveal the intricate colourful carvings. The ornamentation was stunning.

Next stop Pamplona, via Logrono, by bus, 3 hours.