This past night was the only time we didn't stay somewhere or have a sleeper. We managed okay considering - considering we're not used to "roughing it" and have a tendency to get a bit irascible when we get tired!
Today started with our arrival in Kiel at 0
.38. Getting onto the next train was easy (from memory, it started from Kiel so we could get on it practically straight away). This train (RB 21045) left at 1.21 and got us into Hamburg at 2.51. We got to know the Hamburg station pretty well as we had a 2 hour wait there. After much deliberation we chose McDonalds for our early breakfast - I think it was because it was clean and didn't allow the riff-raff. It was packed, and while we were eating we were asked to save our table by someone in the queue. We did a smooth transition - and had some conversations using just names of towns, thumbs ups - all that stuff you do when you travel and don't speak the language. Vundabar! There were loads of people wandering around the station. It was a relief to get on the ICE 581 bound for Nurnberg (Nuremberg) at 4.53. Comfortable seats and a waiter asking if we'd like a coffee! Unfortunately, the said waiter asked for money when the coffee came - woops. Very comfortable train though.
We saw a lot of solar panels on this trip - we saw a lot in Scandinavia too, but here in Germany they were farming solar panels! The Germans have also started putting up sound barriers ("keep from sight" barriers?) along the railway lines
. I guess that soon we'll have to pay extra to sit on a top deck to enjoy the view. The train arrived at Nurnberg in Bavaria at 9.24 and we deposited our luggage in a locker. We'd had no idea where we wanted to go, or what we wanted to see, when we decided to use a Eurail Pass. David and Mel showed us a video of the Nurnberg clock at noon - it looked impressive, so we made Nurnberg at noon a destination point. What a great decision - I think we'll be back. We spent our time in the old city - 950 years old I read somewhere.
The information centre was well signposted and was close to the station. The clock was at Frauenkirche (Church of Our Lady) - number 11 on the map - on Hauptmarkt (Market Square). We'd be able to find our way there for midday easily. Headed down Konig strasse to Lorenzer Platz. When we paused to look around at the churches and the Mauthalle, we thought the tower back towards the station looked interesting so took a photo. We never did get to explore the Craftsmen's Courtyard (number 1) or to find out if the tower was part of the old town wall - but it certainly appears to be, as there are 4 of these towers
. The Nassauer Haus (number 9) is a tower-shaped building used in medieval times for administrative purposes. The lower part of the building is from the13th century, the top storeys were added in 1423.
It was an overcast day, but not cold and the place had a great atmosphere. Konigstrasse sloped down towards the river (the Pegnitz) after Nassau House, and the view from the bridge towards the Hospital of the Holy Spirit (one of the largest hospitals from the Middle Ages) added to the mediaeval feeling. Little did we realise how many bridges we would see in such a small area!
We passed the Church of Our Lady, our noon destination, and went on through the Market Square. What a huge square! It was rather empty at 10.30 - but was pretty packed when we came back to see the clock at noon. We passed the Beautiful Fountain on the edge of the square, then poked our noses into the Rathaus (Townhall). The fountain was erected in the 1390s. Forty stone figures are arranged in three rows, all of them important 14th century sculptures representing the world-view of the Holy Roman Empire
. The sandstone figures were replaced by shell lime ones about 1900. From here, it was on past St Sebaldus, then a climb up to the Imperial Castle (Kaiserburg) - the residence of Germany's Kaiser and kings 1050 to 1571.
I was really enjoying the walk around the castle- and wanted to head off for a walk down the walls - when it started to rain. So we scurried down to Tiergartnertor - loved the alleyways and the sand stone and timber framed houses in the Castle Quarter. Just beyond the Albrecht Durer House, there is an entrance that goes under the old city wall. I didn't explore far enough - as we walked further down beside the wall, we could see people walking along the top of the wall - AND the wall was covered! Next time, I'll walk the walk. Followed the wall down to the river and then turned east. There was a lot of noise and action from the chain bridge (Kettensteg) - number 24. They were filming something on the bridge - not sure if you can see it in the photo. Along beside the river, then across the Maxbrucke bridge; along beside the river and back across again over the covered Henkersteg bridge
. Time for a coffee in the Market Square before the clock strikes noon!
The Männleinlaufen - a mechanical clock that commemorates the 'Golden Bull" of 1356. The clock was installed in the church in 1506. (During the Second World War, the movement was kept in the Nuremberg Kunstbunker for safety.) It starts with a herald ringing a bell; then another window opens; then there are two trombonists, a Piper flute and a drummer who play silently; then come the seven electors of the imperial regalia who bow and circle the emperor three times. There are two men dressed in Turkish costume with a hammer alternately hitting on a bell. After the bell has struck the hour, the whole train disappears inside the clock. But the church bell kept tolling for almost 15 minutes. Headed back, over the Fleisch Bridge this time, down Konigstrasse and back to the station.
This link http://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Historische_Meile_Nürnberg
I translated it of course
. It might be worth a look if you're going to Nuremberg and are going to do your 'own thing'.
Caught the 12.48 ICE train to Munich, arriving at 14.04. There was a bit of a mix-up with this trip - something to do with the floods (rolling stock not being available and who knows what). There were two trains leaving Nuremberg for Munich at practically the same time. We thought we'd got the best one as it arrived first - BUT, we had to change over to the other one at a later station. It didn't matter either way, as we had nearly 90 minutes scheduled 'break' time at Munich. Plenty of time to have some lunch.
We left Munich on the EC 87 train at 15.31. (Highlighted on the attached train timetable). This train took us through Innsbruck and through the Brenner Pass to Franzensfeste/Fortezza in Italy. We were meant to have about a 30 minutes wait here until we got on Regional train 20467 to travel the 17 minutes to Chiusa. I wanted to have time to look around at Franzensfeste because the valley is only a few hundred metres wide here
. But the train was running quite late - and I didn't even get a photo! To add insult to injury, we got on the train (just 2 carriages) and a bumptious female conductor came along and told us (commanded us!!) to move to the other carriage . Apparently it was because the lights didn't work in that carriage.
We arrived at Chiusa/Klausen about 19.36 and the weather was a bit dismal. We had no real idea which way to go - we had actually googled, but it's such a small place there was no town map. The main highway, the Brenner or A22, is elevated and bypasses the town to the east of the rail line. (Chiusa has a population of not much over 5,000 and is a mainly German speaking town.) We came across a footbridge over the Isarco/Eisack River, so over we went. Not sure which way to go, we asked a young couple and they said they'd show us. Bless them! We'd have got there in the end, but this was a much quicker way - plus we got a guided tour as well.
The Residence Schmuckhof Torggelkeller was buzzing when we got there. Obviously a very popular spot for a Sunday evening meal! People everywhere. Someone found time to take us up in the little lift to our room. Once again we'd been upgraded. Enjoyed our dinner - 24.20 Euros ($35) for a shared pizza and beers. And 80 Euros ($117.40) for B & B. Just loved this place - the only drawback was no internet access when we were there. However, they checked the trains for us on the net at breakfast time. And I could even have borrowed a bike if we'd had time. Email them at info@scmuckhof.it
We took a lot of photos the following morning.
Hamburg Nuremberg Chiusa/Klausen
Sunday, June 09, 2013
Chiusa, Trentino-Alto Adige, Italy
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