I'd planned on catching the 9.03 train from Chiusa/Klausen which would get us to Verona at 11.52. Failing that, we'd get the 9.33 train and arrive at Verona at 12.17. Sometimes there's a problem when you can't read the small print! Apparently those trains only run on weekends - or something.

Anyway - after a scrumptious breakfast we took lots of photos of the Residence Schmuckhof Torgglkeller which is right at the foot of the ridge on which the Säben / Sabiona Monastery stands . (The rustic Pizzeria Torgglkeller is part of/attached to the Residence Schmuckhof.) We could hear the water wheel during the night - very lulling. After taking photos of the wheel and the restaurant, we walked back down Via Conciator to Piazza Tine. First we went along the narrow Unterstadt/Citta Bassa; then along Oberstadt/Citta Alta - the Schloss Branzoll on the ridge above us - on past the narrowest house - to the Marklatz where all the cars are parked. The streets are too narrow to drive cars in most places. We checked at the Information office, but the Schmuckhof seemed to be right about the trains.

Crossing our fingers that there'd be a connecting train, we got on the 9.03 train and arrived in Bozen/Bolzano at 9.29. We went to the ticket office to find out the quickest way to get to Chiusi in Tuscany (where we were being picked up from the station to spend a few days in the Umbrian hills). The quickest way was Bolzano to Bologna on R2259 (12.31 to 15.31) and then change trains to the IC598 at 16 .48 and go straight through to Chiusi - arriving at 19.08 (25 minutes later than planned). The reservation only cost 4 Euros as one of the trains was a regional train (i.e. second class) with no reservations.

We had almost 3 hours to look around Bozen/Bolzano - I'm going to use the Italian Bolzano - but there were no luggage lockers, so we had to tote the bags. We just wandered around the old town - as usual.

Bolzano is the capital city of the province of South Tyrol in northern Italy. Before World War I, it was part of the Austro-Hungarian county of Tyrol - it was annexed by Italy after the war. At that time, it was primarily a German-speaking city, with a population of about 30,000 people. In the
1920s, along with the rest of the province, the city was subjected to an intensive Italianization programme. The aim was to outnumber the local German-speaking population. During World War II Bolzano was the site of theNazi Bolzano Transit Camp, a concentration camp for Jews and political prisoners . It now has a population of over 100,000.

We walked from the station to Piazza Walther Platz and picked up a map at the Information centre. The square was dominated by the Assumption of our Lady Cathedral, which was consecrated in 1180. On past the impressive old buildings to the bridge (Ponte Talvera); then along Via Museo, past the South Tyrol Museum of Archeology (home to Otzi the ice man who was discovered in 1991) to the market place. Lots of stalls heading up the road towards the Theater im Hof. It was strange to be tempted by ginger, mangoes and macadamia nuts! Home away from home. We sampled several cheeses and meats before buying some - also bought some strawberries. Then it was along the Portici - Lauben which had some rather more upmarket shops ("an uninterrupted sequence of elegant, traditional and modern shops with their particularly attractive windows") - known as the Arcades. Then through some more markets where I was tempted to buy a green leather handbag that was reduced from 75 to 60 Euros in 20 seconds . But I resisted. Back to the Piazza - paid my .70 Euro to use the loo. Well worth the money as it was so clean. Very enjoyable walk. Had a bit of a rest under the trees, and rang our friends explaining we'd be a bit later, before heading back for a coffee at the station.

Our train left Bolzano at 12.30 (R2259) and we arrived in Bologna at 15.30. The IC598 didn't leave for Chiusi-Chianciano Terme until 16.48 - plenty of time. Well, one would think so! Bologna is huge - the 5th largest in Italy. So, glad we reserved our seats. But such a pity we couldn't find the platform!! There might be 3 platforms with the number 7 - just the regular platform, East 7 and West 7 - and it's a very long walk between them all. We got sent to the wrong one - it was a long way from the action, and it was difficult to find anyone that looked like a railway worker. He was very helpful when we found him - and we jogged back to the central area; huffed down the stairs and stumbled up the next lot of stairs. The train was running late- ritardo. There was also a certain amount of consternation among those with a reserved seat, as the train number printed on our tickets was different to the number on the electronic board with its 'ritardo'. We were all showing each other our tickets, and many different languages were being spoken - now we'd found the right platform it was all fun once again!

It was a 2 hour 20 min trip to Chiusi. The announcements kept saying we'd only be 10 minutes late - but we reckoned it would be 25 minutes, and we were right. Luckily we rang our friends from the train and warned them. Then a short drive to "La Follia" near Paciano in Umbria.


http://www.thewingates.co.uk/lafollia/