First, congratulations to everyone who got the year thing! Ethiopia does indeed follow the ancient coptic calendar which is closely linked to their religion even though Ethiopian Orthodox Chiristians are not coptic orthodox - you will have to read about that on your own if interested. It is a very long story.
Also, for Tric - the churches in Lalibela were 'hewn' from the stone at God's command to King Lalibela - you will not find a non-religious, 'more rational??' explanation anywhere - theologians, historians and archelogists have spent entire careers trying to figure it out
. It's part of what makes Ethiopia to incredibly interesting! And yes, ferangi's are Ethiopian for gringos.
Now for our trip here - With the help of our guide, Gashaw, in Lalibela, we bought our bus ticket for Bahir Dar and 'reserved' our seats - front row. This cost a total of 50 birr (12.5 birr = 1US) versus 4000 birr for a private mini bus. We like traveling 'with the people' but this is not very common for tourists to do. The bus was scheduled to leave at 6am but we had to be there at 5am even with reserved seats. The reason for this became clear very quickly as we drove to the bus station, there were a lot of ghostly looking figures - people with their white shawls wrapped over thier heads and shoulders - heading to the bus station. When we got there the bus was full except for our seats - I should say, the seats were all filled. Between 5-6am, many more people boarded and then the bus was really full. Somehow word got to the bus that there was an insector down the road and they made a bunch of people get off
. After we left, pretty close to 6am, many of these people had made it down the road beyond the check point and got back on the bus. Ethiopians are not used to traveling in vehicles so they get motion sick very easily, thus, the front row seat was EXTRA good because we had air flowing from the door window. Ethiopians don't like wind so they keep all the windows closed up tight - airlessness and motion sickness are not a good combination.
The bus took us to Gashema a small town about 2 hours from Lalibela and then we had to change buses for Bahir Dar. We were immediately approached by many options one of which was a very nice, clean beer truck and after some negotiating of price we hopped aboard. This was faster, somewhat more comfortable - me, Rich, the driver and his side kick sharing the front seat but we had a great view through the big front window and at least some of the time the windows were opened. The road is under construction. A Chinese funded project to pave the road which will make travel easier for many but also faster and so many Ethiopians travel by foot because they are farmers and they make their way to market each week by foot
. It is a little worrisome to me but you can't deny them the progress either. I just wish it was more about the people and a lot less about the money. It was indeed a beer truck and at one 'pit' stop, Rich teasingly asked if they were going to serve beer. We started off again, and sure enough, two St. George's beer were handed to us. No bottle opener - no problem (Nancy - you may not want to read this part) - the driver opened them with his teeth! We laughed a lot and Rich took pictures which we will share if and when we get access to faster connections. So far only dial up and it is very dodgy. So, after about about 6 hours we arrived at a town just outside of Bahir Dar and the truck pulled into a gas station. They told us we would have to take a taxi from there to BD and they not only flagged it down for us but they gave us cab fare!!! (so far we have found Ethiopians to be very honest and honorable). So we hopped into the mini-van taxi which in a round about way (picking up and dropping off others along the way) we finally got to BD
. Once again, we were quickly surrounded by offers for tuk-tuks (3 wheeled motorized taxis) and the best talker won - Abebe. He is 17 and in 10th grade and speaks English very well. He loaded us into a tuk-tuk and we started looking for a place to stay. We tried 4 places on our list - rooms were either gone or we didn't like how they looked and in the end we ended up at the place Abebe recommended anyway. It is a pension, small hotel and our first night we stayed in a room with toilets and showers down the hall but today we 'upgraded' to a room with a private bath - same price - 90 birr. When traveling in 3rd world price is not an indication of quality or cleanliness so you have to look at the rooms before you sign up. We have found this to be the case pretty much everywhere we have travelled.
It was a 'long, hard journey' yesterday so today we are laying low. Figuring out our next moves and, of course, catching up on the blog.
I loved seeing so many messages - keep them coming and I will try to answer questions as well. I am not sure about photos...
Bahir Dar via Bus...and a beer truck!!!
Monday, December 21, 2009
Bahir Dar, Gojam, Ethiopia
Other Entries
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1Getting Excited
Nov 2526 days priorMesa, United Statesphoto_camera0videocam 0comment 2 -
2Ethiopia At A Glance
Nov 2625 days priorMesa, United Statesphoto_camera0videocam 0comment 2 -
3We have arrived!
Dec 174 days priorAddis Ababa, Ethiopiaphoto_camera2videocam 0comment 6 -
4We are really in Ethiopia now!
Dec 192 days priorLalibela, Ethiopiaphoto_camera52videocam 0comment 2 -
5Bahir Dar via Bus...and a beer truck!!!
Dec 21Bahir Dar, Ethiopiaphoto_camera11videocam 0comment 5 -
6First day in Bahir Dar
Dec 21later that dayBahir Dar, Ethiopiaphoto_camera14videocam 0comment 1 -
7A side trip from Bahir Dar
Dec 221 day laterBahir Dar, Ethiopiaphoto_camera18videocam 0comment 6 -
8Lake Tana Monasteries
Dec 232 days laterBahir Dar, Ethiopiaphoto_camera25videocam 0comment 2 -
9Moving on to Gondar
Dec 265 days laterGondar, Ethiopiaphoto_camera71videocam 0comment 6 -
10Side trip to Gorgora
Dec 3110 days laterGorgora, Ethiopiaphoto_camera10videocam 0comment 0 -
113 days in the Simien Mountains
Dec 3110 days laterGondar, Ethiopiaphoto_camera36videocam 0comment 4 -
12The cradle of Ethiopian Orthodox Christianity
Jan 0313 days laterAxum, Ethiopiaphoto_camera72videocam 0comment 1 -
13Toilet Paper, Towels and Hot Water
Jan 0313 days laterAxum, Ethiopiaphoto_camera0videocam 0comment 0 -
14Moab??? Hawzien???
Jan 0515 days laterHawzien, Ethiopiaphoto_camera83videocam 0comment 13 -
15Last Stop before Addis
Jan 0818 days laterMek’elē, Ethiopiaphoto_camera33videocam 0comment 0 -
16Carole's final entry
Jan 1121 days laterAddis Ababa, Ethiopiaphoto_camera0videocam 0comment 1 -
17Visa Extension... and a Pick Pocket Attempt!
Jan 1323 days laterAddis Ababa, Ethiopiaphoto_camera0videocam 0comment 9 -
18Side trip to Ambo and Wenchi Crater Lake
Jan 1626 days laterAmbo, Ethiopiaphoto_camera0videocam 0comment 1 -
19Pick Pocket...again
Jan 1727 days laterAddis Ababa, Ethiopiaphoto_camera0videocam 0comment 1 -
20Timkat Festival in Addis
Jan 1828 days laterAddis Ababa, Ethiopiaphoto_camera15videocam 0comment 1 -
21Timkat-Day 2
Jan 1929 days laterAddis Ababa, Ethiopiaphoto_camera8videocam 0comment 0 -
22Running on Churchill Ave & 'Street Gym'
Jan 2131 days laterAddis Ababa, Ethiopiaphoto_camera0videocam 0comment 0 -
23Update from Carole
Jan 2434 days laterHarar, Ethiopiaphoto_camera0videocam 0comment 0
Comments

2025-05-22
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Barbara
2009-12-21
Keep the cards and letters coming. I love reading your adventures.
Can't wait for the pictures.
Cynthia
2009-12-22
That beer probably hit the spot, no matter how it was opened! Thanks for the updates, sounds like you are having quite an adventure, and we're all getting an education. Can't wait to see pics!
Rath Sophoan
2009-12-23
Orkun Orkun Orkun! We are really interested in the places where you have been to. We feel that we are there with you. Hope to see some pictures and hope to hear from you more. Have a nice visit to the new places in Ethiopia.
Leona and Gib
2009-12-23
First Happy Birthday and of course Merry Christmas!
We are enjoying your writings, the beer truck seems to have struck an especially notable moment as it was the first thing Chris mentioned when I asked if she had read your latest entry.
Enjoy and take care, thinking of you both.
Alison
2009-12-24
What a great story - almost felt like I was along for the ride! (Thankfully I was spared any motion sickness in a closed-in hot environment....) Really enjoying your updates. And, C-dub, Happy Birthday!!!!!