We reached Torrey, checked into the Austin Chuckwagon Motel and had a fabulous meal at Cafe Diablo, where we made friends with Glen and Susan from California. We then walked back, which was tough as the temperature had fallen to zero over dinner!



We woke to a jolly chilly morning. Capital Reef is our third closed National Park so we visited the Wayne County Information Office for advice, and decided to spend the day driving the Fishlake Loop instead, thinking we might walk later if it warmed up a bit. We passed fields on our way, and to show how cold it was, the irrigators and fields were covered in ice. We found out later that the farmers deliberately irrigate when there is a chance of freezing as it improves the ground for next year's crop. The loop took us along the Gooseberry Fremont Scenic Backway into high pasture with beautiful autumnal aspens, at times glimpsing the Fremont River.



We saw a mule train heading along the Old Spanish Trail, which had been called 'the longest, crookedest, most ornery pack trail in the history of the United States', and had been the major route between New Mexico and Los Angeles in the mid 1800's.



We continued to the Johnson Valley Reservoir which was very pretty, then climbed up to Pelican Promontory and got a great view of Fish Lake.



On our way down, we met Dan, who had parked his truck and was getting ready to go hunting on the first day of the elk hunting season in his hi-vis jacket to ensure he wasn't the target for another hunter, and carrying his 300 Winchester Grand Magnum rifle, he was hoping for a 200lb elk. The hunting permit system is complicated, involving a state draw and it appears Dan has only a 12 day season to bag his elk, he is only allowed one animal in this time, and if successful, may have to wait a couple of years before he can apply again ... which is probably ok as 200lb of elk meat will last him that long!



Coming through Bignall, we stopped at the cute little State Liquor Store, which is the only place to buy liquor stronger than 3%25 beer in Utah. There are no bars in Utah as you have to eat to be served alcohol, but all restaurants have a license. Far more plentiful are Churches to Jesus Christ of Latter Day Saints!



Returning to Torrey, the way back we passed a field of buffalo and Smokey and his mate ... probably the nearest we'll get to a bear this trip!



The afternoon sun was lighting up the Waterpocket Fold leading to Capital Reef beautifully. Waterpocket Fold is a fault 100 miles long created 65 million years ago. Early travellers gave it the seaman's term 'reef' for an impassable barrier, hence the name of the park.



Next morning, we left Torrey and took highway 24 which runs alongside the Fremont River, where it cuts through Capitol Reef National Park, so we got a drive-by after all. We saw several formations from the road - Twin Rocks, Chimney Rock and the Castle, then a cliff face with several Fremont Indian petroglyphs which look like men with space helmets on.

 



Next stop was Goblin Valley State Park which was first called Mushroom Valley which seems rather more appropriate. We were free to wander round the valley as we pleased, in and out of the formations ... every view a photo opportunity! incidentally, the yellow flowering bush that keeps popping up in pics is rabbitbrush.

 



As we left the park, Chris spotted a coyote on the prowl ... and later we saw a moose!



Next stop on the trail in Moab ...