Today we started our journey south to Konya, and eventually back to Istanbul. After the dramatic countryside around Goreme, it was a change to travel through endless flat grasslands as far as we could see. In this steppe country there are grain crops and every now and the cattle or sheep with their herder. The scenery didn't change for over the 250 or so kilometres, but I quite like seeing this type of landscape. It helps set the bigger picture of the country.

We stopped at dusty Sultanhani for a break and also to see the Sultanhani caravanserai. Caravanserais were inns built in the 10th and 11th century to provide accommodation and protection for merchants and their animals. The central courtyard was usually open, with sleeping and washing rooms around the edges. In the centre was a area set aside for religious purposes. In Sultanhani is the remains of the small mosque that was there. It is a large building and in quite good condition. Such refuges must have been very valuable to traders with their camels who needed a rest after their 40 km or trek with their camels through the dusty countryside.
 

As we get nearer to Konya we diverged from the route to see Tuz lake, an enormous salt lake we saw from the air when we flew in. Sadly, the extra 100km did not end with the view of the lake, as like another dam we saw, it is fenced and there is no access. 

Finding our hotel in Konya was a challenge. Addresses can be difficult to follow and the sat-nav not always very precise with a specific address. And then there are one way streets. And cars parked blocking streets when they shouldn't. But we found it finally. 

Lonely Planet refers to Konya as the equivalent of the 'Bible Belt'. It is renowned also for its whirling dervishes, the Mevlana Museum, and Sufism, a mystical dimension of Islam. So there are some women seen all in black coverings and there is no alcohol sold (or not obviously anyway.) 

I am noticing changes in the way women dress as we move around the country. There are many women dressed western style, but in Istanbul a good proportion wear the trench coat style coat over long sleeved tops and long skirts or pants. And heads covered with silk headscarfs. The older women wear black overcoats rather than the lighter trenchcoats. It seems they must be hot.

When we got to Goreme there was a noticeable change in women's wear. Most middle aged and older women wear baggy pants gathered at the the ankles and waist, have a low crutch, and are made from a light patterned material. They wear a white muslin and narrow lace edged scarf on their head. These women sit on the ground for many purposes - to weed, to chop grass, cut herbs, or just to talk or sit in the sun. And they get up and down so easily. Much better than I can.



 
We were in the old centre of Konya. A large market was nearby, and the streets were very busy. As we have seen before in countries where women cover their clothes, there is the strange ?availability of very over-the-top evening outfits - use every kind of beading, flounce etc on one dress and would leave a lot of uncovered skin on the wearer. Lots of these shops near our hotel. Also noticed almost every chemist shop (and there are many) have one item only displayed in their windows - Viagra!?

Around our hotel in Konya was busy and dusty, the hotel room was a comfortable but the evening sun made it hot and a large light-up sign outside made it light at night, so we decided to stay one night only and head to the coast.

Good decision.