Marmaris and the Datca Peinsula

Monday, May 06, 2013
Marmaris, Turkish Aegean Coast, Turkey
We had only been travelling a while this morning when we saw a temperature gauge on a roundabout - 35C! We don’t think it is that hot, but the weather down here has warmed up. 
Our destination today is Marmaris on the Datca Peninsula. But first we call in at Dalyan, on the Dalyan River. Apparently Dalyan was not on the tourist radar until the ruins at Kaunos became popular. Now there are boat trips up the river to visit these ruins, and tours to see a turtle nesting area.  
 

The people of Kaunos were not that lucky in life. They suffered from malaria, and were famous for their yellow skin. Their river also silted up, so life was not easy. As we spent yesterday on a boat, today we are not boating but just walked along the river to see the King’s Tombs. The tombs are easy to see and the river is pretty. With the long grass growing in the water it made me think of Moses in the bulrushes. There are many restaurants here, many of them with tables under shady vines. And they have a statue of Attaturk. Like every other town we have been to. Every town has streets, buildings and bridges named after him. They are devoted to this ‘Father of Turkey’, and their nationalistic pride shows. The red Turkish flag is used often, and if we talk to people about Australia they say how much they love their country. 

We checked into our hotel at Maramaris - A$40 for a spacious room, a breakfast area under vines, and there’s a pool if we want it. (Not all the hotels I’ve booked are as nice as the ones I mention, but they have all been good or acceptable and have all been under A$50 except in Istanbul.) From here we walk to the waterfront. It’s a holiday town, so there are lots of boats and restaurants. But there is view of islands out to sea and we dine outside in the balmy air. We tried raki and had a very good looking salad.
Next morning we drove out along the narrow Datca Peninsula, a sliver of land that divides the Aegean and Mediterranean Seas It was a mountainous drive with beautiful views along the way. Again we stop in a hurry to miss a tortoise. And then a bird of some kind with little chicks. She takes her time as if she is telling us this is her turf. Steep inclines and descents take us to the little town of Datca. A sleepy place with boats bobbing in the water.
We have a coffee overlooking the bay. A local man is escaping house painting at his home and chats in quite good English. We are surprised that many older men can speak English, but many young people can not. Caffeine requirements catered for we retrace our track through the pine forested hills. We stop to look at an old windmill converted to a restaurant , and take photos of wildflowers. These are wonderful at this time of the year. Not only the poppies but many kinds of daisies and other flowers.
We stop at Mugla to see if we can sort an ongoing problem with the sim card in my ipad, and frustrated with the negative result decide to forget about it and make tracks for Pamukkale. The road here is - you guessed it - mountainous. Deep gorges, pine trees, high cliffs. It is a beautiful drive. And then, way in the distance we can see an area of white shimmering in amongst the green fields. Half an hour later we arrive at our hotel, open the curtains, and it is right there. The white terraces of Pamukkale!



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