To the lake and under the trees

Wednesday, June 12, 2013
Lake District, England, United Kingdom
Driving from Prestwick in Scotland back to England we stopped in the border town of Gretna to see Gretna Green. Famous for marriages that could be performed for under 21s without parental consent it has now become one of the most popular wedding venues in Scotland. Historically, or rumour has it, whichever, anyone could perform a marriage, but most marriages were performed by the blacksmith, and so even today marriages here are performed here over a blacksmiths anvil.

The reason couples eloped to come here for weddings was that after 1754 there was a difference between English and Scottish laws regarding the 'marriage without parental consent' age. At that time boys in Scotland could marry at 14 and girls at 12 without their parents' consent. Nowadays in Scotland the age is 16 while it is 18 in England. Scotland. I had imagined that today it would just be a historical site but it seems instead a thriving business area for weddings. 
 
 
 
We used the city of Carlisle as a base to explore the lakes area. Our first drive was under grey skies. To be expected in the lakes area. We drove to Windermere via the Kirkstone Pass, at 454m the highest driveable pass in this area. At this height it was wet and misty. I can imagine this pass is often closed in winter. 

Except on these high passes and hills, the area is so green - the grass is almost glowing, the trees still have that new leaf radiance, moss covers rock walls, and gardens are springlike. In Windemere it was time for coffee. In another lovely tearoom. They do them so well here.

And then further south - down one side of lake Windermere and then up along the other side, through Grizedale Forest. We stopped at Beatrix Potters Hill Top Farmhouse at Near Sawrey, but it is closed on Fridays, so on to Hawkshead. This attractive little village is famous for its literary connections- William Wordsworth was educated here and Beatrix Potter lived nearby. There are the outdoor clothing shops (they are everywhere in the UK), and of course shops stocking Beatrix Potter books, toys etc. Up on the hill is The St Michael and All Angels church. Built around 1500, its cemetery has some very old crosses and gravestones.

 
 
It was late afternoon when we reached Ambleside, a place where we stayed in 1995 at a Youth Hostel by Lake Windermere. It is still there, though updated, and today it was cooler than it was in June 18 years ago when we had to sit by the lake as inside was too for comfort. The weather in the UK this time has been perfect for travelling. We have not had a really hot day, a few days that were gray and maybe a bit showery at times, but mostly it is t-shirt and jeans type weather. Perfect for us.

We spent another day seeing Carlisle. I had not expected much, but Carlisle's position near the border means that it was in a central to the events that occurred around here. It had very good explanations of the whole Roman history of the area, the background of Hadrian's Wall and the wars between the Scottish and English on the borders. Tullie House had a very good art collection, there is a large cathedral, and Carlisle Castle is also the site of many border battles. 
 
 
 
 There were lots of eating places nearby, so a good place to stay. Especially as in the Ibis hotel we had a fantastic shower - doors that opened wide and a hot water tap - not one of those power shower things they have here where each one is different and I need specs on to see what is what. Bliss!
 
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