Today we walked around the historical centre of Lima, guided by another vibrant personality working with Lima Walking Tours. We learned about the architectural styles of buildings, meandered through busy pedestrian streets, watched the changing of the guard and quickly moved through a political demonstration. 

The historic centre of Lima is on the UNESCO World Heritage List and despite being damaged by a series of earthquakes this century (its most recent in 2012) it is still a great place to get a feel for Lima (and Peru’s) complex history.

Church and Convent of San Francisco is one of Lima’s main tourist attractions. It is the most important example of colonial architecture in Peru and boasts a catacomb beneath with bodies of  thousands of “common Peruvians”, something our tour guide was very proud to point out. 

Another item that our guide, Carla was excited to point out along the way, were many intricately carved wooden balconies in Lima’s historic centre. They are part of Lima’s cultural heritage and were built during the Spanish colonial rule in the late 17th and 18th centuries. There are approximately 1600 of these balconies found throughout Lima though to be honest, the ones that Carla pointed out, were in ruins. You really had to use your imagination to see them as they once were. Such a shame the country is lacking in resources and not able to refurbish them to what they once were. Political corruption here, seems to be the common thread in many items of concern for the common Peruvian.  

In recent years, retirees had their pension stolen and now they have next to nothing to live on. During our walk, we were privy to an open-air “Meeting of General Concern” where those with stolen pensions meet to listen to government discuss what they are going to do about it. As we watched this weekly “meeting” unfold, we watched weary old men, walk away with weathered faces that didn’t inspire much hope. 

Near the end of our tour we visited ‘Plaza de Armas’, a colourful main square and Lima’s first public square. It was where Peru was declared a Republic in 1821. Also in this square is the Presidential Palace, home to Peru’s president Ollanta Humala, also corrupt according to our guide. It was here we watched the Changing of the Guard, though at arms length. Trying to get near the ceremony was quite the production. 

There are so many disgruntled groups in Peru, that many take the occasion of the Changing of the Guard to protest their anger at the mismanagement of government. Such was the case today. Armed guards in full riot gear, strategically lined the streets  to minimize the potential for any major riots. Our guide assured us that the police were there as a precaution and we should not be concerned. So we followed her past the police, along the streets and toward the Presidential Palace. 

After our walk, we boarded the bus and headed back to our little part of town. The bus is an experience in and of itself. People are chest-to-chest with little or no breathing room. Consciously aware of our surroundings, watching our bags and pockets, I was thankful it was a cool day. I simply cannot image taking the bus on a daily basis, much less in the heat. 

Laundry and a few Pisco Sours (a Peruvian favourite beverage with sour alcohol and frothed egg whites), we headed home and packed our bags. We have a bus picking us up at 6:45 am and from here, we will take our time and head to Cuscos, where we are scheduled to start our hike to Machu Picchu on Oct 4, our ultimate goal here in Peru! 

Off we go!