Sheki, Azerbaijan
After the long road trip from Baku yesterday this morning we were going to visit the historical city of Sheki. I first saw Sheki on Joanna Lumley's Silk Road tv series where she traveled a similar route across the Caucuses and got to stay at the Caravanserai where I was supposed to stay last night.
I'd woken early by the sounds of roosters and the Fajr sunrise prayer call from the Mosques. My room was next to the bathroom and there was a stale smell by morning of the water which couldnt vent. I also needed another hour to charge all my batteries so I told Gunel and the driver to go for breakfast without me.
First we drove to inside the city walls to the Summer Palace of the Shah's. Entrance was 5 Az ($3.50). No photos were allowed. Gunel walked me thru all the rooms. I wanted to spend more time walking around and exploring but she exited me out. That was a bit of a let down when the whole point of the overnight road trip was to come and explore here. I took some photos while she kept chatting on her phone.
I think they should allow photos so long as no selfie sticks or flashes. Most striking is the coloured stain glass which streaks across the rooms. One room also had a wraparound mural with 500 individual persons depicted. There was a womens section of the home and the mens section where the Shah resided.
Outside was also very detailed exterior architecture. There was a pond but should be a bit larger to get full reflection spans like the Alhambra in Spain.
Nearby was a church which is now a local history museum. Entrance was 2 Az ($1.40). There was quite a lot to see crammed into the small museum. There were actual windows from the palace which you could see close up and photograph properly.
I didnt have to goto the actual history museum which was close by and didnt seem as interesting. Instead we went into an old building used as a souvenir bazaar.
There were artisans making souvenir windows the same as in the palace. I debated getting one. After checking the other vendors I ended up getting one for 35 Az ($25). These are only sold in Sheki and I didnt see them sold in Baku.
We then drove a short ride to the Caravanserai where I was supposed to have stayed though we could have done all this on foot in the old town. We switched hotels yesterday as previous guests had complained the rooms at the Caravanserai were too cold. However the guesthouse I went to had no heat in the rooms either so we might as well have stayed here anyway.
The caravanserai has terrible reviews on trip advisor as not being updated and no online bookings. However if it was good enough for Joanna Lumley to have stayed at it would have been good enough for me for one night so long as there were extra blankets and hot water. All of the room doors were locked so I couldnt see any rooms and nobody seemed to be staying here in low season.
The outside street terraces were used as souvenir shops with all manner of crafts.
The guide and driver stopped at a local sweets store to stock up as these items are only sold here not in Baku. I'd already bought a box of baklava halva for 5 Az ($3.50). We then drove to the Jummah (Friday) Mosque in the town centre.
It had a tall minaret but I was actually more interested in the abandoned hammam (bathhouse) adjacent. It would be nice if they restored it as a restaurant, museum, or gift shop as they have in other towns with Turkish style heritage.
See vlog of today and route to Sheki below - https://youtu.be/46fvBq931U4
2025-05-22