DAY 32: Basilicata & the Gargano

Saturday, September 14, 2013
Foce Varano, Puglia, Italy
We awoke to clear skies, dew on the fields and 13º C (that is 55º F)! We had not seen temperatures this cold in quite some time. Our destination today was the Adriatic Sea and the Gargano Peninsula. To get there we needed to cross the "lower leg" of Italy (if one thinks of Italy as a leg and foot kicking a ball). We did not know what to expect of the mountainous interior of Basilicata. Remote and relatively unfrequented by tourists, the guidebooks had very little to say. This is somewhat surprising as we think the area is quite beautiful. While we debated whether the countryside was as pretty as Tuscany, we agreed this area was worth returning to and exploring further. (We just wish that we had stopped to take more photos.)

Eventually the mountains of Basilicatta gave way to sweeping plains of Puglia . Here the farms are quite large and filled with corn and other field crops. Everywhere we looked we saw wind turbines - hundreds and hundreds of wind turbines. We reached Foggia by 11 am and stopped at the Saturday market to buy fresh fruit and olives. Restocked, we set off for the southern shore of the Gargano.

Our plan was to travel counter-clockwise around the Gargano peninsula following the road that hugs the coast. We bypassed the tourist mecca of Manfredonia, but stopped in Vieste and Peschici. Along the way we saw our first coastal fish farm and a cactus farm - with cacti all planted in neat rows. The trip along the coast took about four hours and was as lovely as one would expect. Again, this area is every bit as beautiful as the Amalfi coast. Even if the cliffs were somewhat less dramatic, there are long, sandy beaches, as well as many beautiful spots where the white cliffs go right down to the sea. On this bright, sunny day the colors in the water were fabulous. The afternoon temperatures reach the upper 20s - that's low 80s F, which was welcomed after the chilly start to our morning.

We arrived at our hotel on the northern coast of the peninsula just before 6 pm. Our room was in a large "villa" structure, on an upper floor with a front and side veranda. It overlooked the olive groves and the nearby Lago di Varno. After check-in, we sat on our veranda, sipped wine and watched the sunset on another lovely day. Later we went to the hotel's restaurant, where we had a lovely dinner.

Tomorrow we begin our last full week of vacation, as we zip up the coast toward Venice. It will take us two days to complete the drive. Who knows what adventures we will find along the way?
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