August 11, 2014
VIANA do CASTELO to GUIMARÃES 90km by train with transfer at Trofa (2hr20min €8,20 full fare)
Residencial Mestre d'Aviz €42,50 ($58) Double, ensuite, without breakfast
Stark Blue Sky
After three overcast and rainy days, we departed Viana do Castelo under stark blue skies. It was an easy 10 minute walk from our hotel to the train station. We were on the 10:15am train, transferred seamlessly in Trofa, and at 12:30, we arrived in Guimarães. It was a 1.1 kilometer walk to our hotel.
Our hotel, Residencial Mestre d'Aviz was a great choice. The location is in the town center on the edge of the historic core. It is conveniently close to attractions, great restaurants and supermarkets. It is a remodeled 16 room townhouse with a stylish colorful modern interior with funky chairs and lamps. Large modern paintings adorn the walls. We couldn't check in till 3:30, a bit late but we were able to leave our backpack while we went to see some sights.
We had a great Sunday buffet lunch at restaurant Oriental.
Guimaraes was founded in 950. The sneak preview we had gotten from the train didn't bowl us over with excitement and not until entered the atmospheric UNESCO World Heritage Cultural old town did we feel it for Guimarães. It's medieval center '...exemplifies exceptionally well preserved Portuguese architecture from the 15th to 19th century.' Historic town houses line cobblestone lanes opening to plazas with cozy cafes, pastry shops, churches, and castle remnants.
Teleférico da Penha to the Top
The weather forecast looked grim so we took advantage of the blue sky we had today. We had missed the view from the top in Viana do Castelo so we took the Teleférico (cable car) to the top of mount Penha, at 617m, the highest point for miles. We enjoyed the view and the cool breeze. In addition to a small church and castle, huge boulders cover the top and, among them, hidden grottos, some made into small chapels. It was a fun couple of hours or so.
Back in town, we peeked in a few churches (I'm on the lookout for Azulejos.) The lanes of old town are a pleasure to stroll through. I enjoyed the sight of the wonderful balconies, often made of fancy metalwork flowers often draped over the sides of them.
August 8th - GUIMARÃES
Museu de Alberto Sampaio on Gray Drizzly Day
As predicted, it rained off and on all day. We spent the better part of the morning reading and relaxing. We borrowed an umbrella from the hotel when we finally ventured outside. We went to the Museu de Alberto Sampaio. The Alberto Sampaio Museum is in the old collegiate annex to the Church of Nossa Senhora da Oliveira and houses medieval religious art; jewelry, paintings, sculptures, textiles and ceramics.
We peeked though bars of a gate to a cloister and decided to go in, not because we were intrigued by the medieval artifacts inside, but because of the modern art exhibition by the talented painter, Pedro Guimarães. His exhibit is done in 3-D so your perspective on the image changes as you move. Ray Charles is painted on a piano. The piano image looks like Ray from the right perspective. From other angles it looks like a paint splotched piano. Interesting how our minds interpret depth, shading and color...
Medieval Retreat
Monday, August 11, 2014
Guimarães, Northern Portugal, Portugal
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