May 15, 2015
AMED to UBUD via Lake Batur (spectacular albeit not for the faint of heart) 100km
Inata Bisma Resort and Spa 500000IDR ($37.85)

Environmental Impact of Tourism
 
Before heading back to Ubud, we continued along the coast south for 5 more km. The road led us up a small hill. From the platform on top we had a stunning view over the popular Lipah Bay. We started up a conversation with a local expat who had come there with his son to admire the view. He is an architect who has lived in Amed for 20 years. He was unhappy with the lack of city planning. He said, ..they let anybody build anything without thought to aesthetics or safety. They are over building, and as it is, most accommodations are empty most of the time. When I brought that up to city official, he told me "don't worry, in a year or two millions of Chinese will fill them."  Our expat friend was on a roll and obviously distressed. Bali received international money to fix the trash and sewer problems. Still, the village market up the coast dumps their trash in the ocean and no one is monitoring it. Kuta and Semeniak are also health hazards as raw sewage is being dumped unbridled.. as he pointed to trash floating between the oblivious swimming tourists. 

We had already made up our mind that Amed, for a long stay, wasn't for us. We wanted more of a village feel with oodles of cozy terraces, restaurants, galleries, temples and places to hike. Ubud more than fits that bill.  

  
A Different Way to Ubud

To get back to Ubud, we wanted to avoid the population centers and Google Maps showed a way via lake Batur. We turned around and headed north for about 15 km. Several resorts are sprouting up here but in general, it is much less developed. We veered off the main highway to the ocean to check out Kubu Indah Spa & Dive Resort, a gorgeous place right on the beach. It had several sparkling swimming pools in a spacious garden with lush lawns, flowering trees and palms. It mainly caters to package tour groups. It is not connected very well to public transport options. We could see spending a few days. It would be a treat. Maybe next time.
 
We continued and kept our eyes peeled for a left turn. We expected a major road and instead found ourselves on a horrendously steep narrow road, that deteriorated after a km or so, to a potholed path to Lake Batur....but soooo spectacular. 

Can't believe that Google Maps actually suggested that route. But...it gave us a peek at real Bali and stunning scenery. Simple homes bordering steep terraced paddy field and tremendous views over the coast. Everyone we passed greeted us warmly and chuckled as they watched us struggle to make the next steep hairpin on our under-powered scooter. Eventually, we summited and came out at small school that just let out. A few boys, no older than 9, hopped on a motorbike and took off like hell, making us feel like amateurs as we carefully negotiated the potholes an slippery slopes. 
 
The way down on the Lake Batur side was just as precarious. I preferred to get off and walk on a few especially bad stretches. I watched in awe as a motorcycle came up the next steep hairpin with the female passenger balancing a mattress above her head. These people are in a different league that's for sure. Occasionally we got glimpses of the cone peak of the volcano and the lake through the thick forest. 

Finally we made it down to Batur Lake's northern edge. Here, small plots fertile land are planted with varied crops, small red onions, beans, cabbage, peppers. This was definitely off the beaten path and we loved it. We rode around mount Batur through its lava fields and up the other side to the overlook ridge and Sari Restaurant where we had another great pork out while we soaked up the view. Never get enough of those views. 

 
Final 40 and a Fine
 
We still had another 40 km to go and we opted for the one fork in the road we didn't take last time. 
 
About 10 km before Ubud, we got stopped at police checkpoint. Dave's US driver's license didn't suffice. Technically, foreigners are required to have an International Driver's License to drive in Indonesia. And we could either fork over 400000Rs now or get official 250000Rs ticket and show up in court at later date. The jerks. Anyhoo...Dave had read on-line that 100000 ($7.50) was the typical 'donation' and gave that. They quickly accepted it and we were happy to be on our way again. 

We checked into Inata Bisma Spa and Resort, our home for the next month and a half. We were absolutely thrilled. Got a free upgrade even because the bathroom door in our reserved room (#202) didn't close and the next room they showed us also had bathroom door problem - plus was a downgrade (still nice mind you). So they gave us the executive room with fab pool and rice paddy view. Yes... Life is good.