June 11, 2013 
Sombor to Bogojevo, 68 km, total 1606km
Cloudy sky, 25C.

Private Zimmer. Sorfozo Ferenc, 1000 Dinar per person including breakfast (2000 Dinar/$23/€17 per room)

After another fantastic and ample breakfast we were on our way. For the first 7 km, we were on the main highway, with a moderate number of cars and trucks passing us, then on onto a narrow bike path next to the main road. 

Traditional Serbia

We turned off onto a paved low traffic road toward Kupusina and snaked past small villages and many cherry, apple and pear orchards. Here and there, we spotted older ladies still dressed in dark dresses, dark stockings and bland head scarves...very traditional.
 
 
We next followed the dyke again, with flood water lapping higher now. Large strips of forested land, between the Donau and us, were more seriously flooded than we had seen on previous days. Still we felt safe.

Many graceful heron and storks were enjoying the bounty of food along the water's edge.

Shortly before the town of Apatin appeared, we went through Croatia without realizing it. That part of the border snakes like the river but not always exactly within the Donau's banks.

The sports field, and what looked like vacation cabins, were flooded on the edge of Apatin. Only one spot on the dyke had been reinforced with sandbags. The rest appeared very solid and more than big enough to thwart any flood.

We rode another stretch away from the Donau and again past agricultural fields. Mostly corn as far as the eyes could see.
 
Next we reached a thick mixed forest where we spotted a wild boar in the distance. We had been looking for shady spot for lunch but most areas on side of our trail were muddy or wet. We emerged from the forest and soon were back on the dyke. Then we got to 6 km of nothing but rough grassy track. We all managed to stay upright.

We noticed many beehives in this area, not surprising, with all those blossoming trees and wildflowers. Finally, we arrived in Bogojevo at around 3:30PM. The community is quite spread out and, right away, we went into a small market to ask for directions to the guesthouse. A nice lady at the small market telephoned our place for directions and relayed them to me. We found our bed for the night readily.
 
Happy to be at Sorfozo Ferenc
 
The owner stood out front in his shorts and, sporting an ample belly, he opened the gate for us. He introduced us to his turtles that love the leaves of the wisteria. His wife speaks a little German which made communication easy. We were shown a covered area to safely park our bikes, then past an eerie looking doll, to our simple rooms and shared bathroom. I caught a questioning look from Junko. This is definitely the least charming place she had ever spent the night. We joked that, for us, this was pure luxury compared to some of the places we've stayed in. The aroma was a strong negative too. Our friendly hosts made up for all else the place lacked as far as we were concerned. We were told to feel free to use the washing machine. The lady served us Serbian coffee and tea in her finest china.

 

We went over our route for next day and realized the town we had planned a stop, had no place to stay. The next accommodation, on the Donau and the Serbian side of the river, were in 88 km. That gave us 3 choices;

1) stick to the official bike route for the 88 km

2) follow the much shorter car route

3) back-track 4 km and cross bridge to Croatia and follow the bike route on the right side of the Donau where there is a hotel in 32 km, just before a mountainous area begins.

We unanimously agreed to stay on the bike path on the left side of the Donau for the entire 88 km to Backa Palanka.(follow Velo 6/Donau cycle route)

The husband came over with his laptop open to the Google translate page which read that he … welcomed us to his home and, if we needed anything, we could communicate this way. These were very nice people. We all took turns taking a shower, then checked out the pigs they had, with lots of babies, yes they are cute. Across the small courtyard stood a brick oven that the lady of the house still regularly uses to bake bread.

Best and Only Restaurant in Town 
 
For dinner we cycled to THE place to eat in this small farming town. When we stepped through the gate, we couldn't believe our eyes; a water wheel, artificial waterfalls, ponds and fountains. We found a nice spot to sit in one of the three large outdoor but covered dining areas. Junko, Hiro and I chose the fish, cabbage salad and delicious grilled bell pepper. Sadly the fish turned out to be battered and fried in portions which were way too much. Dave enjoyed his roasted chicken and salad. We picked up some juices and cookies for the road the next day.

In spite of the stuffy room and bottom sheet only covering half the bed (leaving mattress exposed) we had good night sleep.


Junko and Hiro add;

Bojojevo
あとにも先にも泊まるところはここ一軒しかなかった。田舎に立ち並ぶ普通の
家の一軒。ランニングシャツのおじさんがはだしで手招きしていた。
まさかそこがきょう泊まる所だとは思わず、セルビアの人はみんな手を
ふってくれるので手を振り返し通り過ぎた。泊まるのはその家だったとわかり
戻って一同その家のお客様になった。たくさんの黒豚、鶏、アヒル、犬、猫、
亀も迎えてくれた。呆気にとられたのもつかの間、これも経験とわりきった。
ところが夕食にでかけた出来上がったばかりのローマ式グリルレストランの素晴らしさ。
巧みに積まれたレンガワークの庭園でのディナー。アンバランスな日。
朝早起きして次の目的地にむかう。泊まるところが88キロ先までないので
そこまで進まねばならないことがわかり覚悟で臨んだ。
 ________________________________

References: 

....1) The Danube Cycle Way; Donaueschingen to Budapest by John Higginson
... 2) Bikeline Maps & Guides; Donau-Radweg 4, (5 books in the series)

Our plan in a nutshell; 2900 total kilometers at 50 km per day - 2 days riding for 1 day off for a total of 58 riding days & 90 total days - April to July, 2013 :)