Thursday, the day after my arrival in Belgium, turned out to
be one of the hottest days ever in the country’s history. I guess that must be
true of surrounding countries as well, considering how small Belgium is, but
only heard it mentioned as a local heatwave. Although not extreme by American
standards, the problem here is that very few places have air conditioning
because very hot weather is so rare. There must at least be air conditioning in
the museums! Well, I usually try to be
outside in sunny weather for good picture taking, but this is a special
circumstance…and it’s not supposed to rain anytime soon anyway.
Bruges’s main art museum is the Groeningemuseum, and yes it
has air conditioning! I’m certain I didn’t make it to the Groeninge on either
of my two prior visits to Bruges, so it was a must for me this time around. The
museum really isn’t that big but holds the most comprehensive collection of
Bruges art from the city’s golden age, as well as other painters associated
with the city during its eras of lesser importance….and a handful of paintings
by other artists as well. The big names
of the era are, of course, Jan Van Eyck, Hans Memling, Gerard David,
Hieronymous Bosch, Pieter Pourbus, and some significant works attributed to “The
Master of….this or that”, works now recognized as masterpieces but by painters
who were only recognized as great in later eras. The specialty of that era was,
of course, altarpieces with religious themes, often showing donors with the
virgin and saints. The famous Belgian artists of later eras are mostly
associated with other cities – the Brueghels with Brussels, and Rubens, Jordaens,
and Van Dyck with Antwerp.
The other significant museum in Burges is housed in the old
Sint Janshospital Complex, which happens to not be air conditioned and gets
very hot despite being all stone and gothic looking. It’s best known for
several “Flemish primitives”, especially six altarpieces and other works by
native son Hans Memling.
An honorable mention also goes to Onze Lieve Vrouwkerk
(Church of Our Lady), part of which functions as a museum and houses the only
confirned statue by Michelangelo outside of Italy. Bruges is very proud of it.
2025-05-22