Zinal, Valais, Switzerland
Hmmm, where should I walk today? On most days the destination is pretty well
set, but for this stretch of the Haute Route there are two options for
different passes to cross to the next valley, the Val de Moiry. The standard
route of the Col du Tsate had such words as steep and scree in the description
and included as second ascent to the Cabane du Moiry above the lake near the
bottom of the glacier. The other way via the Col de Torrent was described as
gentle with wide switchbacks, meadows almost all the way to the top and a
gradual descent. To me the choice was obvious.
The ascent of over 4,000 vertical feet from La Sage to the
pass was not exactly easy; that kind of elevation gain is always going to be
very tiring. On the other hand, the path was ideal all the way with nothing
scary or difficult about it. The guidebook says 3 ½ hours to the pass. I made
it in about 4 ½ and considered that quite an accomplishment. Compared with a
week ago my legs, lungs, and cardiovascular system are clearly stronger.
With such a pleasant walk and little concern about stumbling
over rocks and falling, I walked with my camera out, which usually means I took
more pictures than when I have it stashed in my backpack and need to take it
off each time I want to take a picture. But my pictures were mostly of the same
scenery just at different levels as I got higher up the ridge and to the pass.
The morning started of partly cloudy, but by the time I got to the time I was
in a swirling mist of rising clouds and occasional sprinkles.
That might have
been a bit scary on some previous passes but not here, and being a holiday
weekend Sunday there were quite a few Swiss locals on day hikes around as well.
The view on the other side into the Val d’Moiry was somewhat less obscured by
mist. I took a short break at the top and felt relief that the descent looked
so gradual and easy.
The Val d’Moiry is filled with another reservoir backed up
by a large hydro-power dam (barrage in French). The lake is an almost artificial
swimming-pool blue in color, interestingly quite different from the more
turquoise Lac de Dix reservoir I passed three days ago. The stunning scenery of
the valley and to the glaciers and peaks above it to the south was somewhat
obscured by light rain on my way down, but I really can’t complain if Day 9 of
my Haute Route trek is the first one with less than perfect weather conditions.
When I finally got across the dam I faced a dilemma. The
Cabane (mountain hut) was about 200 vertical feet above it on the way to the
next pass, but I didn’t have a reservation and wasn’t sure if it was open.
If staying
there wasn’t an option, I might miss the 5:00 P.M. bus to Grimentz, which would
entail a monumentally long walk down to it in the valley. I encountered some
people speaking English and decided to enlist there help and ask a few
questions. The group included an American family from Michigan and a very
helpful Swiss lady and her husband. The Swiss lady had been their au pere in
American 25 years ago, and the Americans were visiting. Anyway, I explained my
plight. She inquired for me and determined the cabane above the dam was fully
booked. They offered me a ride with them not only to Grimentz but all the way to
Zinal, their destination for the night and where I was supposed to end up the
following night. Of course, I accepted their kind offer!
The ride down the canyon was rather harrowing, as locals
drive fast on steep narrow roads without any guardrails. We made a brief stop
in Grimentz for them to pick up some supplies, what seems like a rather large
ski town but one I don’t recall ever hearing about. Grimentz is like a vertical
city of wooden chalets sprawling up the hillsides.
I love Switzerland!
Grimentz is in the Val d’Anniviers and Zinal in its higher southern
extremity called the Val de Zinal, together the easternmost French-speaking
valleys in Valais Canton. They dropped me off in the center of ZInal next to
the tourist office, which I got to about two minutes before closing. Dortoir
accommodation? Of course! The jovial lady who spoke English well gave me a map
and directed me to the end of town. “Ten minutes max, if you walk slowly!” Well, I didn’t think I walked that slowly,
but the mile or so to get there took me about 20 minutes. The Relais de la
Tzoucdanaz was delightful, though, a farm with a restaurant and no one there
but myself and a pair or Englshment camping outside. I had the room with seven
bunks all to myself and dinner was fabulous - Assiette Valaisanne (platter of
local cured meats), a green salad, Rosti, and apricot ice cream. My first Swiss
Rosti was creamy and cheesy with lots of bacon and onion, kind of like a potato
casserole. I also felt obliged to order a digestif glass of kirsch, Swiss
firewater made from sour cherries.
With my skipping the pass over Col de Sorebois into Zinal, I
sort of advanced a day and got back to my original schedule after my half-way
rest day in Arolla. I ran into some of my
trail friends from a few days ago. They said they were discussing amongst
themselves what happened to Warren and were worried if he was OK when no one
had seen him for a few days.
2025-05-23