Kastoria - The Byzantine Lake Town

Wednesday, June 19, 2024
Kastoria, Greece
From Pella I took the toll expressway west and then northwest for a few hours to a small city named in northwest Greece not far from the Albanian border named Kastoria. These toll roads that go through tunnels are well worth the cost, saving hours of travel time relative to two lane mountain roads. And the terrain I crossed was very mountainous.  I liked the fact that there were signs on the highway for Korce in Albania only 70 kms away. It felt almost like coming full circle since I had just been there at the end of April.  I chose Kastoria mostly as a night stop because of its situation to the east of the main range of the Pindos Mountains which I’d cross the next day to Vikos Gorge.
Nevertheless, Kastoria has some real appeal as a destination.  With its lakeside location and moderate 2,300 foot-elevation, one might expect it to be cooler, but that was not the case.  Old black-and-white photographs from more than a century ago in my hotel, though, show a frozen lake with people skating on it.  Built mostly on the hilly isthmus of a peninsula protruding into Lake Orestiada, Kastoria looks very beautiful from the distance.  For most of the city that’s somewhat less the case close up.  The one exception is the beautiful Doltso neighborhood surrounding Doltso Square where there are several small churches and museums and most of the buildings are large mansions in the old Ottoman/Balkan style that I’ve seen in neighboring countries like Albania and North Macedonia.  Besides it large number of small Byzantine and post-Byzantine churches, Kastoria’s main attraction is its Byzantine Museum housing over 400 icons, some nearly a thousand years old.
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