Where to start - with what is or what was.        Christchurch, as most knew it as the charming, vibrant, English-rooted town is no more.  

The earthquake of February 22, 2010 lasted less than 40 seconds .      The ground cracked open and spewed a grey sludge (called liquefaction) up covering the some areas of land and rising to over a foot in depth in some residential areas.    Downtown buildings swayed but only those with strong architectural resiliency built in or just damn good luck, stayed standing.     The Canterbury Television Building was seen to jump straight up off the ground once, land, jump again, and then layer by layer concrete collapsed down so that a woman on the 6^th floor walked out at ground level.  Of the 158 people who died, over 100 were in this building, most alive after the collapse, some having called their loved ones on cells to try to get help for their rescue.     Then a gas leak led to fire – more deadly than the earthquake itself.

This one was 7.1 on Richter, with an epicentre less than 20 kms from downtown and only 10km down.    Another destructive factor was the types of motion – both front to back (like rubbing your hands together) but also up and down at the same time .     Imagine what that does to underground infrastructure.    Some perfectly fine looking buildings need to be deconstructed (they don't use the word demolished, as they use 90% of the materials in rebuild) because of their unstable foundations.     

Four years later, disillusionment and a quiet Kiwi impatience pervades.      Rubble has been removed and dozens of parking lots or grassed lots remain in the core, perhaps more of these than buildings.      Gap Art is encouraged, creative installations to soften the post-war feel of the place.        The most poignant of these being 158 Empty White Chairs representing the lives lost, from a baby car seat, a wheel chair, desk chairs, and a piano stool.  

Shipping containers are the unsung architectural heroes – stacked to hold up flaky building walls, and used almost immediately as housing for stores and services as the city struggled to get back in business.       The RE:Start block downtown uses containers like 2-story legos housing stores, the post office, a bank the notion of a portable city has some charm for the locals .

Christchurch's highest rated restaurant is Pedro's House of Lamb - only since the earthquake the "House" has operated out of a container.   The roast shoulder of lamb with scalloped potatoes is its only menu item - and takeout is the only option.     When we arrive to place our order, the host scans his list and asks if we have a reservation.  He took pity on us and let us place an order anyway.     John declares it is the best meal we've had in New Zealand.

We walk the streets downtown and need to cross the road multiple times on any given block, because sidewalks are fenced off for public safety or for reconstruction.   People seem a bit PSTD-like when we talk to them – they are open about the facts of where they were, how their home or office was affected, but seem to protect themselves on the human impact with the standard kiwi response to anything "you just get on with it."      A lot of healing needed here on every front .       Glad we are here and glad we stayed longer than most recommend at the moment.

The most beloved Hagley Park and Botanic Gardens, close to 2 sq kms of green oasis, continue to thrive and offer endless areas for sport, play, running and relaxation.         A couple Antarctic attractions remind us how close we are to the southern pole – and we had a blast being driven in Hagglund arctic vehicle over a terrained course of hills, a wee lake (or big puddle), slopes and gaps to emulate ice crevasses.   Rough and tumble.      

We chose to end our New Zealand love affair at thermal springs outside the city – seemed appropriate given the immense impact geological gifts and threats have on this fair country.    We're leaving with a great respect for this land and for the gentle warmth and strength of its people.