As Mt Fuji is for the Japanese, so is Mt. Ararat for the Armenians. That is how many books about Armenia introduce the relationship between the country and the mountain. As a national symbol, it is revered and is often depicted on everyday items and souvenirs. It also has religious significance for it is named after the biblical mountains where Noah's ark is supposed to have come to rest after the great flood.  

Interestingly while Ararat (5137m) looms over the central part of the country and is even visible from Yerevan, it does not actually lie within Armenia at all . It lies inside neighboring Turkey and this is a source of anguish for many Armenians. But there are great views of the mountain to be had from within Armenia and our decision to visit the Khor Virap monastery on a clear day with blue skies was largely influenced by its location at the foot of the mountain.  

Located in the Ararat region about 50 kms south of Yerevan, the monastery's history is closely connected with the nation's adoption of Christianity and its subsequent religious and cultural development. Khor Virap means "deep well" and according to legend, the pagan King Trdat III imprisoned St Gregory the Illuminator (Surp Grigor Lusavorich) in a well here for 12 years, where he was secretly fed by Christian women. The king was later cursed by madness and was miraculously cured by St. Gregory leading to conversion of the king and Armenia into the very first officially Christian nation in the world in year 301. St Gregory became the first Catholicos (equivalent of the Pope) of the Armenian Apostolic Church and was responsible spreading the faith and initiating the building of several churches on top of pagan temples .

The monastery itself is on a hillock and after we toured the buildings in the monastery complex, we climbed to the highest point behind it for a panoramic view of the twin peaks of Mt Ararat, the pastures in the foreground, and the contentious border between Armenia and Turkey running between the two.

The second monastery we visited on the same day was Noravank (New Monastery) that is located in the Vyots Dzor region southeast of Yerevan. It was founded in the 13th century and its spectacular setting is also the reason for its popularity. 

The road to the monastery winds through a narrow gorge making even the approach to it quite dramatic. The monastery itself stands grandly against red rock cliffs in the background. One of the primary buildings in the church complex is the 1339 St. Astvatsatsin sepulchre-church, a three-story building that is considered an architectural masterpiece and was the last significant work done by the 14th century artist, sculptor and architect Momik, who is buried next to it . The facade of the church has bas-relief sculptures. Narrow stairs lead up to the second floor which is the actual church. (We were told that this was deliberately made difficult as the getting to heaven is not easy!) The church is topped by a dome that is supported by an open air rotunda making it well-lit and airy. While the central church, St Astvatsatsin, is not in use, some other churches in the complex are still functioning churches. There are some exquisitely carved stone crosses (khachkars) that lie around each of these churches and some of them have very elaborate carvings on them.  

In the same province, further east of Noravank, is the village of Areni which is best known for its winery and it was our last stop for the day. We tasted several red wines from the last few years vintage (good, but not great) but more interesting was their collection of fruit vodkas (called oghi) which included grapes, plum and pomegranate varieties. At 55% alcohol content, even a little sip of each is strong enough to raise the dead! 
 
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